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Wheel Bearings

Sweeney said:
Is there a reason for this?
Click to expand...

Yes, filling the hub with grease causes it to run hot. Hubs that use a bearing buddy or other grease gun type filling method that fills the hub solid with grease causes the hub to be speed rated to a lower speed. Really any of those type of hubs are going to be 55mph hubs. Spinning them faster runs into the point of not being able to get the heat out of the hub fast enough.

Filling a hub solid with grease makes good sense for a utility trailer that sits outside all the time or a boat trailer that is being backed into the water. Those are trailers that should not be going more than 55mph however.

If the hubs are packed solid with grease and the bearings end up running hot you will cook the grease out of the bearings. The hubs may be full of grease but if there is none in the bearings they will not last long. Sort of like the old saying, water water everywhere and not a drop to drink.

High speed trailer hubs like on a Camp-Inn are basically the same as a automotive hub and the bearing packing procedure is exactly the same as if you were doing the front wheel bearings on a older car or truck.

Cary
 
Tour 931 said:
The guy that repacked mine said you have to use the right grease. And even if you use the right grease you have to remove all the old grease. Even a little of the old grease can cause problems if it’s not compatible with the new grease. Either grease is okay but not mixed together.
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There is a caution in the Dexter Axle manual as to this very point- contamination of new grease by old grease of different compounding.

Edit: Sweeney, I just noticed I rambled on about details in reply to your post on the "Morning Coffee" thread...so here is a cut and paste to move those details here where more on topic...;)

"It was pretty straightfoward, using basic tools anyone can use, and thanks to the info here on threads and a fast call back on nervous questions from me to Cary/Craig, as usual - invaluable."

Now I just dont want to be stuck on the side of the road waiting on parts NLA due supply chain, or busy trailer shops with earliest appointment three weeks out..."

DIT is do-able by ANYONE willing to learn a new basic skill.

Its Just a step up from changing out a flat tire, really...

The bearing grease is Just a little messy.

Imma stick the tools below in toolbox. Or you could put in a bag under floor bins same place thats handy for a tire change for my lugnut wrench.

You need:
1. set of 12" long channel locks,
2. A brass drift punch you can tap on with
3. the hammer you use on tent pegs,
4. a center bearing punch with the right sized die you can also tap on with hammer.
5. straight slot screw driver to
A.gently tap into the joint of end cap and hub to pry off outer end cap that protects the castellated nut and cotter pin
( clumsy me could not break my end cap free with rubber mallet like on the e-trailer video
So no need for a rubber mallet...;)
B. And use screwdriver or channel locks to pry off the bearing grease seal on inner side - no need for a specialized seal removal tool if you plan as you should- (cuz properly sized seals are cheap BUT a source of lost grease if deformed on install)
to replace seal at same time...as bearings.
6. a piece of clean 2x4 thats 4" long to reseat the new seal. This is important.
Its tempting to try to gently hammer in the seal with a hammer, rubber mallet, or even the center punch die which if it goes in crooked will deform....so tapping the seal in all around at once by tapping on the wood works so much better...
essy...
7. a pair of Home Depot nitrile gloves if grease bothers your bare hands, and
8. some red rags or use paper towels from your galley like I did...
9. Proper grease (see Dexter Axle Manual for types)
10. Red high heat gasket material as in Dexter video
11. 400 grit emory cloth
12. a can of brake cleaner, if you are changing grease types
13. safety glasses...you dont wanna get that stuff in your eyeballs...

And you are good to go!
 
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Kevin said:
Dexter axle documentation includes a table of compatible greases. I ordered my new grease spare tube at e-trailer, which is enough for two wheels using the "spread grease in bearings on your palm" method in the Dexter video.
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etrailer is great --- 1 stop shop for all your trailer needs :) Sounds like you've done this a few times!
 
Kevin said:
Old thread but very useful...
I just replaced my bearings and races both sides due to one side being cooked.

I was hearing some squeal at times after a 40 mile drive after a long time in storage, and stopped to check- right side very hot!

I re-read owners manual, and with a couple tips from The Nest and youtube help, was able to DIY.

Dexter has an old video thats helpful

And Cary confirms we dont use a flatwasher between the bearing and castellated nut, and reminds that

The correct technique as in the Dexter video to "tighten then back out the nut" is the key to getting a good fit.

I got bearings at a local RV shop by crossing P/Ns to the numbers in manual and at Dexter. The owner of local RV shop gave me a good tip: to double check fit on inner diameter of the seal matches the spindle axle (it did).

I also got spare bearings and brakes at e-trailer, per Cary's advice, who also confirmed we also dont need the "castellated nut retaining plate" referred to in Dexter video or the " EZ Lube spindle washer"
in the e-trailer kit.
Just the cotter key is enough to hold the castellated nut in place.

https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Bearings-Races-Seals-Caps/etrailer/BK1-150.html

Also- Cary strongly reminded in reply to my query: "NEVER use Bearing Buddy" type wheel end caps with grease fittings designed for easy lube on boat trailers.

Those over-fill the hub and they cannot bear the higher heat generated towing at highway speed.
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This topic is taking a lot of space :) GOOD! I'm learning a lot here, I assume others are too.

Which grease are you using? "LubriMatic Prime Guard High Temperature Wheel Bearing Grease - Red - 16-oz Can
Item # L11380" looks right from viscosity and temperature, as well as formulation -- I don't want a cartridge since you're hand-packing this bearing style. I'd be interested in the Lucas red 'n tacky as well -- since lucas is kind of a big deal in Indianpaolis :)
 
Sweeney said:
This topic is taking a lot of space :) GOOD! I'm learning a lot here, I assume others are too.

Which grease are you using? "LubriMatic Prime Guard High Temperature Wheel Bearing Grease - Red - 16-oz Can
Item # L11380" looks right from viscosity and temperature, as well as formulation -- I don't want a cartridge since you're hand-packing this bearing style. I'd be interested in the Lucas red 'n tacky as well -- since lucas is kind of a big deal in Indianpaolis :)
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I just used the off the shelf Marine grease which was all thats available at the auto hobby shelf, but sparingly on first, cooked axle.

Then I read the Dexter axle manual more closely and ordered the lube in a tube from e-trailer. I just dug it out of the tube with a spoon, vs carry a heavy dedicated grease gun...
So, kind of an experiment...;)

I'll defer to Cary or you, Sweeney to cross those old Dexter grease specs vs whats out there now...for best practices...
 

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Kevin said:
I just used the off the shelf Marine grease which was all thats available at the auto hobby shelf, but sparingly on first, cooked axle.

Then I read the Dexter axle manual more closely and ordered the lube in a tube from e-trailer. I just dug it out of the tube with a spoon, vs carry a heavy dedicated grease gun...
So, kind of an experiment...;)

I'll defer to Cary or you, Sweeney to cross those old Dexter grease specs vs whats out there now...for best practices...
Click to expand...

I looked at the numbers in the list...mp #2, and the fact dexter grease is lithium based -- so is the 'red 'n tacky' I suspect after a good bath in mineral spirits and a douching of brake cleaner the contamination factor will be non-existent. I find red 'n tacky in tubs available as part number, but no one sells it...soo I suspect I'll be spooning out of a tube.

"Project Farm" did a side by side of this stuff against its cheap competition --- there's definitely a difference.

Have you used one of the bearing packing tools? They look like they would work well...but maybe something you wouldn't get enough use out of to justify the storage space for a once a year tool, and something a pro-shop wouldn't use because they've always done just fine with the palm method...

I am overthinking this --- looking into this, I see my own pattern emerging. If my bearings show up tomorrow as they are supposed too --- I'll go to O'reily and pick up a tube of grease and do this Saturday, time permitting. I'm sure the existing bearings are healthy -- but I'd like to know before we get into August when I am expecting at least 3 trips that will be in the 1000 miles+ range.
 
Sweeney said:
I looked at the numbers in the list...mp #2, and the fact dexter grease is lithium based -- so is the 'red 'n tacky' I suspect after a good bath in mineral spirits and a douching of brake cleaner the contamination factor will be non-existent. I find red 'n tacky in tubs available as part number, but no one sells it...soo I suspect I'll be spooning out of a tube.

"Project Farm" did a side by side of this stuff against its cheap competition --- there's definitely a difference.

Have you used one of the bearing packing tools? They look like they would work well...but maybe something you wouldn't get enough use out of to justify the storage space for a once a year tool, and something a pro-shop wouldn't use because they've always done just fine with the palm method...

I am overthinking this --- looking into this, I see my own pattern emerging. If my bearings show up tomorrow as they are supposed too --- I'll go to O'reily and pick up a tube of grease and do this Saturday, time permitting. I'm sure the existing bearings are healthy -- but I'd like to know before we get into August when I am expecting at least 3 trips that will be in the 1000 miles+ range.
Click to expand...

I've since seen the bearing packing tools but the Dexter video and others showing "spread a glob on palm" technique with other hand "holding bearing by edge and push edge down into the grease" worked fine for me...
The key is once you see a little bit of grease ooze out at top edge of rollers as grease is forced up, then its timr to rotate an quarter turn and repeat until the innards of the roller bearing are packed and slippery.

Good idea on O'Reilly- imho best to have a recent known good part/consumeable thats available off the shelf should you find the need far from home. Let us know what you chose, if you confirm the specs match Decters.

(I did not, as I was in a rush: first time I just - used what was quickly available...off the shelf at hobby shop on smoked one to get home, then grease in a tube by mail later from etrailer.

But not too worried - I think its more about proper tightness of castellated nut, plus dont overpack hub with grease, than final detail on grease...but we'll see.

For now I'm checking hubs for heat, along with dip stick oil on each gas fill, etc by habit towing, and wiggle wheel for looseness when elevated on jacks parked at camp spot.

And...If I have to do a repack of new grease then I figure it will be good practice,
now that I'm equipped with a couple extra tools/consumeables to do it by side of the road.

Fwiw: My hubs had red stuff in the ends at castellated nut and end cap but the innards were green or gray, changed color from heat/soot and dust I imagine.
 
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How does that grease packing device work? Not "how" but does it work well? Maybe its my ADDHD (ADD so bad its in High Def) but I can not stand greasy hands and the thought of palm packing...well...lets say I'm not a fan of the concept.

Do you have a supply of hand cleaner there? I think the brand is fast orange, or a competitor?
 
I may have missed something. The kit trailer sells includes the whole enchilada. I ordered L44610/L44649 bearings and races from Timkin through Amazon. I realized I missed (or may have missed) the grease seal for the back. Is the 10-60 a size in itself for the seal, or is there a different specification I need to pay attention too?
 
Sweeney said:
I may have missed something. The kit trailer sells includes the whole enchilada. I ordered L44610/L44649 bearings and races from Timkin through Amazon. I realized I missed (or may have missed) the grease seal for the back. Is the 10-60 a size in itself for the seal, or is there a different specification I need to pay attention too?
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Sweeney if thats addressed to me:
Yes 10-60 is the generic seal part number.

As Randy noted earlier in the thread, and my trusted RV shop owner noted its possible to order a seal sized for outer diameter but wrong inner as axles come in different sizes. I didnt want to wait 3 weeks for an appointment and didnt know my inner diameter, I just bot one of each... (The correct one per the pic of the table at the shop is their shop part number 140. This has nothing to do with etrailer or Amazon)

Outer Diameter 1.983"
Inner Diameter 1.5

Here is what I ordered from etrailer following Cary's advice and link, and compared seals by size to be sure see pic. The etrailer kit is now my spares.

Also, see the "red tip hot sealant" I used as referenced in the Dexter video- what goes on the outer edge of the seal.
 

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Randy said:
This is a wheel bearing replacement kit I put together in 2019. (first post picture, second post parts list). I carry it in the under floor storage. Thankfully I’ve never had to use it. Let me know if I am missing anything.

Emergency Wheel Bearing Kit
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I ordered a kit similar to the one referenced in the 2017 post, and as noted in the Amazon description, the grease seal has the 1.97" OD, but has the 1.25" ID. Our CI is a 2007 , and I don't know if there was a change in hubs in subsequent years, but his wasn't the correct size for our CI. Ours required a 1.5" ID. I was able to order those on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EBMR0C8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

After I got back from the BWCA fishing trip (with a stomach full of fresh caught walleye, and a limit for the freezer) I was able to get my freshly repacked bearings and the new replacement seals that arrived while I was gone, re-installed this afternoon. It will get a test drive before we leave on our camping trip next week, but it was a pretty straight forward process once I had all the correct parts.
 
dustinp said:
I ordered a kit similar to the one referenced in the 2017 post, and as noted in the Amazon description, the grease seal has the 1.97" OD, but has the 1.25" ID. Our CI is a 2007 , and I don't know if there was a change in hubs in subsequent years, but his wasn't the correct size for our CI. Ours required a 1.5" ID. I was able to order those on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EBMR0C8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

After I got back from the BWCA fishing trip (with a stomach full of fresh caught walleye, and a limit for the freezer) I was able to get my freshly repacked bearings and the new replacement seals that arrived while I was gone, re-installed this afternoon. It will get a test drive before we leave on our camping trip next week, but it was a pretty straight forward process once I had all the correct parts.
Click to expand...

Thank ya’ll for the heads up and link! Ordered :)
 
dustinp said:
I ordered a kit similar to the one referenced in the 2017 post, and as noted in the Amazon description, the grease seal has the 1.97" OD, but has the 1.25" ID. Our CI is a 2007 , and I don't know if there was a change in hubs in subsequent years, but his wasn't the correct size for our CI. Ours required a 1.5" ID. I was able to order those on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EBMR0C8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

After I got back from the BWCA fishing trip (with a stomach full of fresh caught walleye, and a limit for the freezer) I was able to get my freshly repacked bearings and the new replacement seals that arrived while I was gone, re-installed this afternoon. It will get a test drive before we leave on our camping trip next week, but it was a pretty straight forward process once I had all the correct parts.
Click to expand...

Ironically enough, those are the seals I bought....I have nothing against etrailer, but amazon's shipping was faster. As it turns out, I could have waited...life stopped me from doing any of my plans this weekend!

I assume the seals and the bearings are sized similarly...so should be OK...I hope. I'm looking forward to doing the job, but it probably won't been for another week...I've go tan expedition planned next weekend!
 
All right...Tonight "was" the night but here I am at 6pm realizing I'm missing a few things....as always:

2 questions before I really even start:
  • I assume it's a 36mm (M36) castle nut? I dont' have a wrench or socket large enough, and my Canadian nut effer doesn't have large enough bite.
  • The clip that is holding the castle nut in place isn't a cotter pin that I expected. On the newer axles, how is that part removed? I only see a little tongue that is coming from between the castle nut and the axle shaft. I bent it already tugging on it to no avail, I don't want to do any more damage making further disassembly a nightmare.

    Is this what I'm looking at? Dexter 00510100 Axle Tang Washer - @Cary Winch can you confirm this?

    Thanks in advance!
 
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Lipster said:
That's what mine has. I reused mine, but got a spare pair for the next time I service it.
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Thanks!!!! I'll consider reuse if the new clips don't show up Friday. I already ordered them.

As I've said, I've never done this job -- so I'm being slow and cautious. I haven't seen this "tang clip" before - always traditional cotter pins or various spring clips. I'm not sure I like this design. Havn't never seen it before, all I had was this little tongue that didn't look like it belonged.

With the supply chain problems of last year and UPS threatening to strike, I'm just a little timid to disassemble without having extra parts on hand or a source that I know I can get them. I don't want to be without a camper for even a weekend.

The RV shop down the street probably has the parts, but I'm pig-headed. They wouldn't help with a big-rig problem because I didn't buy from them. I had to take my rig a hundred miles north to the manufacturer to get work done. That sent a clear message that they were too busy for me, and didn't want my business. Fine. Now I'll never refer to them nor give them a dime of my cash. You can't treat potential new customers that way.
 
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