Wheel Bearings

Whoops....
It was a little difficult pulling "Le Droppe" to the hitch, but it moved ok. Slowing driving out of campsite, minor squeaking off and on. Driving down the highway, about 45mph, friend behind flashing lights, pulled over, tried to touch hub cap, HOTTER than an IRON...

Stated smoking but he thought it could have been water spray, not sure. Friend thought it was the brakes, so turned off the controller, let it cool down a little bit, then drove a mile more for lunch.

After lunch, driving on my own, stopped checked after 2 miles, little warm but no noise at all. another 5 miles, no smoke, but pulled off the road.

SMOKE'N like crazy, pulled fire extinguisher just in case. I'm told "Grease/Brake fire" are such you just stand back and watch it burn. Aluminum goes quickly I'm told.

What to do? Who to call. out in the middle of nowhere (Hood Canal 101 airport/Fairgrounds. Garmin pulled through, WalMart .5 mil, there referred to Les Schwab, Sunday closed, left fearing the worst, break in or towed away. Left it, note through the door.
Called, they can fix.

Axle Wheel bearing were ground to dust. Axle ok, brake drum warped $230 to fix.

done.

Just reporting this in case you hear some grinding off and on and to maybe check the hubs for heat. heheh.. I mean those bearings were grind, twisted rings to dust...
Close to a fire, but luckily not...

Just an FYI eh???

Never would have thunk about wheel bearings. and I had them greased 2 months ago...

 

Frank, I am glad that everything turned out ok. Any idea what caused the issue?

 

That sounds scary, Frank. Glad things turned out OK. Kathy

 

Frank glad to here your ok and back on the road.

 

Thanks all, mainly just trying to give a "Heads Up" if you hear or experience something a little "Off", check it.

Les Schwab tried to link it to the servicing, but explained that sometimes "Things happen, and it just gave out.." I dunno..

Could have been a real mess, but the first time I realized that if traveling, I need the Garmin of course and probably AAA and reactivate my On Star car connection..

Not sure what I would have done had repair shop near by.

Just had to buy new bearings, axle was ok, and brake drum, brakes were ok. heheh No tires...

Lucky, I'm thinking... heheh..

 

Frank how many miles did you have on your wheel bearings?

 

Not 40k that's for certain. Don't really know, just doing side trips, weekenders in the PNW.. nothing drastic...5K? 10k maybe?? no real idea, but it shouldn't have been ready to give out.

I suspect that had I now taken it in for just a 1st time general inspection that the problem wouldn't have happened. Not blaming Les Schwab, I like them, but the re-sealing?? maybe.. after they re-pack them?? gave out or not seated correctly.. just a WAG on my part..

 

Faank thanks for the info we are around 9000 miles and had them checked with the brakes at 7500 miles.

 

Talked to Craig last Monday about the wheel bearings and he recommends having two spare bearings and a bearing seal while towing. They didn't have any at the Necedah Mothership, but he gave me their CarQuest numbers:

Bearing: B-A4 (get 2)
Seal: 474276 (get 1)

He said any mechanic can cross reference the CarQuest numbers.

 

Why is it that trailer wheel bearings wear and have to be repacked and/or replaced at such a faster rate than those on a car, which have the same basic form and function (at least on the non-driven wheels) and a heavier load?

Just curious.

 

Here you go Ghost, I think this link describes the difference between car and trailer bearings:http://forums.nicoclub.com/topic577331.html

To summarize, modern cars and trucks have sealed ceramic ball bearings, trailers have more open roller bearings. Big differences in cost, surfaces, and heat generation. Trailer wheels are often smaller, more turns means more friction at the same speed.

Hope this helps, T

 

Thanks, T. Great answer.

Last time I dealt with wheel bearings on a car was on my '66 Mustang. Coulda sworn it had the roller bearings, but that was a long time ago.

 

After reviewing the material at that excellent link T provided, now I'm wondering whether the standard roller bearing sets on the trailers could be replaced with higher quality ceramic ball bearings like cars use. I'm sure it would be a lot more expensive, but the piece of mind might be worth it.

 

Good question I'd like to know also. Keeping track of mileage or time of replacement isn't my strong suit. Hope somebody out there has an ansewer. Cary?
MDP
Mike & Denita

 

Well, I went to my local NAPA parts store and they couldn't cross-reference those bearings. Maybe they need more know-how.

 

AsheWolf, Try a marine dealer. That's where I get mine. Quality Timken bearings made in the USA.

 

Yup Alan's right Ashe, many boat trailers use the same 2000-lb rated Dexter axles as our CIs. Here's a link to Light Trailer Bearings and Seals:

http://aftermarket.federalmogul.co...ents/Light Trailer Bearing and Seal Guide.pdf

Try searching for: National Bearings A4
and: National Bearing Seals 474276

Timken's bearings and seals can be found for about $7 each. Or you can get kits with the cotter pin and bearing-races for about $20.

Be aware you'll probably need a press to replace the races.

Regards, T

 

Yup, Bear knows his bearings. His and Frank's blown-bearing stories are warnings for all of us. It's a good idea to touch the hubcaps and check for excessive heat after any good-mileage tow.

Craig, Cary, & Marty (aka the Necedah Gang) all recommended checking and repacking the bearings every 20,000 miles.

I plan to repack every 10K or every two years which comes first. Anna&Steve repacked #269-bearings in Sept-13, so I plan to repack by Sept-15. (For me the last time I repacked bearings was for my '67 Firebird -- it ain't too hard.)

Regards, Crebs

 

Thanks for all the advice guys. I still haven't located what i want but I live a long way from any marine dealers.