Wheel Bearings

[dustinp]

Thanks!!!! I'll consider reuse if the new clips don't show up Friday. I already ordered them.

As I've said, I've never done this job -- so I'm being slow and cautious. I haven't seen this "tang clip" before - always traditional cotter pins or various spring clips. I'm not sure I like this design. Havn't never seen it before, all I had was this little tongue that didn't look like it belonged.

With the supply chain problems of last year and UPS threatening to strike, I'm just a little timid to disassemble without having extra parts on hand or a source that I know I can get them. I don't want to be without a camper for even a weekend.

The RV shop down the street probably has the parts, but I'm pig-headed. They wouldn't help with a big-rig problem because I didn't buy from them. I had to take my rig a hundred miles north to the manufacturer to get work done. That sent a clear message that they were too busy for me, and didn't want my business. Fine. Now I'll never refer to them nor give them a dime of my cash. You can't treat potential new customers that way.

Here's a video clip from etrailer using the tang washer on the castle nut. https://videos.etrailer.com/static/images/video/remove_reinstall_trailer_hub.webm

 

[Sweeney]

Here's a video clip from etrailer using the tang washer on the castle nut. https://videos.etrailer.com/static/images/video/remove_reinstall_trailer_hub.webm

I found this video somewhere along the way too. I really admire eTrailer's catalog of videos...

Personally, I think I still prefer the good ol' cotter pin or a reusable spring clips, I've seen both of those before. The tang is just new to me.

It seems to work simply enough...I could only see the unused tang, the other that was actually doing the work was buried in great big gobs of greasy grimy...

I ordered part off Amazon -- little ticked off that the photo shows 2, but its a "1 piece" --- so my curb side will be done while I wait on the part for the street side, unless it is reusable --- but I'm never a fan of reusing something that bends...work fatigue will make it weak, and especially on a bearing I wouldn't want that. I don't need to see my wheel passing me.

This whole process looks pretty simple having researched it -- The whole "feel" of axles and brakes makes me a little uneasy. Especially when "too tight is just as bad as too loose" and with an upcoming trip to Oshkosh in 2 weeks I want to get this done.

Speaking of which, you going to be there? I think I'll make it on Tuesday or Wednesday.

 

[dustinp]

I found this video somewhere along the way too. I really admire eTrailer's catalog of videos...
Speaking of which, you going to be there? I think I'll make it on Tuesday or Wednesday.

I'm planning on going, but haven't decided what days yet. Will probably decide as it get close enough for more reliable weather predictions.

 

[Sweeney]

Well that was a whole lot of unnecessary worry. A nothin' burger!!!

Everything came apart easily once I released the parking brake I only finished one side. The 'tang washer' I ordered had a photograph of two washers, but the fine print showed 'quantity' as 1 --- I couldn't find any locally, so I gave up and ordered an 8-pack off of Amazon...should be here today, along with the packing tool. I'm not going to use the palm packing method again. To messy.

The factory bearings looked like they were brand new -- no galling, corrosion, pitting...perfect. So I didn't have to remove the races.

It didn't go perfectly the first time --- what does? The "problem" I had was that I tried to do the job with a crescent wrench instead of a 1-1/2" socket. After I got that, and retightened the assembly everything sounds like the 'factory' bearing did. The road test will happen after I do the other side tonight after I do the other side.

The first side took an hour and a half to do...I imagine the other side will take half that.

I do need to take it on a formal road test, I ran out of time -- but I don't expect any issues.

EDIT: I had one more issue come up, but I didn't want to comment on it until I knew for sure. The parts kits online include a washer in addition to the tang washer. This was not present upon disassembly. I talked to Cary, and he said the newer axles don't use it. You'll notice when you are inspecting and disassembling, the castle nut is about flush with the end of the spindle. If you have a newer axle, you won't need the washer.

One thing you will want to do is not put the tang washer on when you do your initial torquing. It will deform under pressure. Once you apply the initial torque, remove the castle nut then slide on the tang washer...you'll have no problems....

 

[rmbrowder]

There is a reason a “crescent wrench” is nicknamed a “monkey wrench”.

 

[Sweeney]

There is a reason a “crescent wrench” is nicknamed a “monkey wrench”.

Familiar with the channel "AvE" on youtube? I personally like his name he gives them "Universal Nut...flubber"

I've got one that is made by Irwin that isn't bad --- I definitely wouldn't use it for anything that a rounding over would be anything more than a severe inconvenience, but its jaws were too small for the job. It MIGHT have been a better choice than ol' Grandads. But definitely, these are all bad leaning towards horrible.

But the part store was 30 minutes away...sometimes you take your chances...

 

[dustinp]

Familiar with the channel "AvE" on youtube? I personally like his name he gives them "Universal Nut...flubber"

I've got one that is made by Irwin that isn't bad --- I definitely wouldn't use it for anything that a rounding over would be anything more than a severe inconvenience, but its jaws were too small for the job. It MIGHT have been a better choice than ol' Grandads. But definitely, these are all bad leaning towards horrible.

But the part store was 30 minutes away...sometimes you take your chances...

FWIW, I think the "adjustable wrench" gets a bad name, and really only deserves it when used inappropriately.

While having the correct size wrench or socket is normally preferable to using an "adjustable wrench", the castle nut on the wheel spindle, which normally shouldn't be too much more than finger tight, is a good application for its use, assuming you have one with the correct jaw range. That particular nut should neither be very difficult to loosen (so not much chance of rounding it, and is also the reason for a cotter pin or tang washer to keep it from loosening further), nor should it be tightened enough to require a tighter grip than provided by an adjustable wrench. Too tight may be worse than not quite tight enough in that particular case.
Having several sizes of them in your collection of tools is a good idea, and can keep a repair or maintenance project from getting stalled while waiting for, or wishing you had the correct one.

 

[GlampingOn]

FWIW, I think the "adjustable wrench" gets a bad name, and really only deserves it when used inappropriately.

While having the correct size wrench or socket is normally preferable to using an "adjustable wrench", the castle nut on the wheel spindle, which normally shouldn't be too much more than finger tight, is a good application for its use, assuming you have one with the correct jaw range. That particular nut should neither be very difficult to loosen (so not much chance of rounding it, and is also the reason for a cotter pin or tang washer to keep it from loosening further), nor should it be tightened enough to require a tighter grip than provided by an adjustable wrench. Too tight may be worse than not quite tight enough in that particular case.
Having several sizes of them in your collection of tools is a good idea, and can keep a repair or maintenance project from getting stalled while waiting for, or wishing you had the correct one.

Speaking of monkeys...
I just used an old long channellock pliers to approximate the 50# torque equivalent of the socket wrench with 12" handle at 6:00 in this old Dexter video...to set yhe bearings.

Then backed out and in to finger tight to insert cotter pin.

So far so good...nothings fallen off or started on fire after a couple hunnert miles so I'm good to go!

Sweeney I'm guessing the spindle retaining nut in the vid is the same as the tang washer you mentioned?

 

[dustinp]

Speaking of monkeys...
I just used an old long channellock pliers to approximate the 50# torque equivalent of the socket wrench with 12" handle at 6:00 in this old Dexter video...to set yhe bearings.

Then backed out and in to finger tight to insert cotter pin.

So far so good...nothings fallen off or started on fire after a couple hunnert miles so I'm good to go!

Sweeney I'm guessing the spindle retaining nut in the vid is the same as the tang washer you mentioned?

I liked that video better than the one I found on etrailer.

 

[Lipster]

When my dad needed the Crescent Wrench, he would always ask me to hand him the Nut Rounder.

 

[Sweeney]

FWIW, I think the "adjustable wrench" gets a bad name, and really only deserves it when used inappropriately.

While having the correct size wrench or socket is normally preferable to using an "adjustable wrench", the castle nut on the wheel spindle, which normally shouldn't be too much more than finger tight, is a good application for its use, assuming you have one with the correct jaw range. That particular nut should neither be very difficult to loosen (so not much chance of rounding it, and is also the reason for a cotter pin or tang washer to keep it from loosening further), nor should it be tightened enough to require a tighter grip than provided by an adjustable wrench. Too tight may be worse than not quite tight enough in that particular case.
Having several sizes of them in your collection of tools is a good idea, and can keep a repair or maintenance project from getting stalled while waiting for, or wishing you had the correct one.

You're right...I also think age plays a significant factor. The large nut rounder I have 3 generations old and the jaws are somewhat loose. the smaller new one that I prefer (Irwin) is much better. I bought it as part of an "Emergency RV" tool kit back in the class A days. Like propane fittings which is where it got used several times.

Loosening the castle nut wasn't a problem at all.. that was finger-tight except for the tang that I simply ripped off instead of looking for it, Tightening to before backing off --- this is where the socket was much more confidence-inspiring. On an emergency roadside -- it would have been adequate but not optimal.

Speaking of monkeys...
I just used an old long channellock pliers to approximate the 50# torque equivalent of the socket wrench with 12" handle at 6:00 in this old Dexter video...to set yhe bearings.

Then backed out and in to finger tight to insert cotter pin.

So far so good...nothings fallen off or started on fire after a couple hunnert miles so I'm good to go!

Sweeney I'm guessing the spindle retaining nut in the vid is the same as the tang washer you mentioned?

Channel locks to me fall into the same category....I considered the use of a channel lock as well, but was afraid of putting pressure on the castle's and potentially deforming them when doing the initial torque...lots of "grab" to go with the "twist" -- if you gall the nut or the threads of the axle, you'd never have a good 'finger tight' sensation. I'm overthinking here, as I often do.

This video seems to be the 'gold standard' except for its aged and industrial aesthetic. Yes Kevin, it shows the extra flat washer that apparently they no longer use at least on our axles. But it still gets all the important points across. Just look for the castle nut to leave a few threads exposed and its easy to tell if you need one or not.

Its unfortunate our axles used a reusable spring clip or cotter pin. I am really NOT a fan of the tang washer. It does the task just fine, I'm just allergic to single-use proprietary parts. With a cotter pin, it's universal and in an emergency, you can MacGuyver something or heaven forbid reuse the old one.