Questions & thoughts on power

[taranis17]

(Channels inner Tim Taylor - augh augh augh....)

Maybe I'm getting a bit ahead of myself, given that I don't yet have a 560 in the garage yet, but I've been considering how best to outfit the rig for extended off-grid camping. 3-5-7 days max off-grid, then charge up for a few days (and get a hot shower), before moving on.

Options abound (power stations, types of solar panels, LifePO4 batteries, et al.) as well as opinion on what's "best." Since I work-from-home, I can also work from the road. A Starlink Mini is an absolute requirement, as is at least some Air Conditioning (what can I say, I'm a sensitive, delicate Texas flower that sweats like it's raining outside) and the ability to charge a Macbook and iPhone. An ice-maker would be nice too but I can cope.

Anyway, I'm considering a Bluetti Apex 300 system along with two 350w solar panels + perhaps a DC-DC charger or a Honda eu2200i generator (side question: will this be enough to kick over the AC compressor?).

The overall idea: plug the trailer into the power station and slow power drain/usage with 700w of solar input - basically stretch my usage out for 3-5 days of normal usage. I can also add additional batteries to the main unit if I find it falls short by itself.

The one bummer in this plan is the AC air conditioning - converting from DC->AC will hurt, not to mention aircon will be the biggest draw by far. Thinking about it more, I'm also going to lose on DC>AC>DC conversion charging a phone/laptop through the trailer vs charging directly from the Bluetti itself. Not insurmountable but... Hmm....

How would you guys do this? Or do I just have unrealistic expectations. I'm a sponge willing to learn....

 

[rmbrowder]

2200 watt honda generator.

 

[JohnC]

I think you should call Cary and run all this by him. You have some mighty big plans. Find out for sure what is or isn't physically possible trailer wise before investing in anything.

 

[SethB]

All else apart, there’s some homework to do to even approach this question:
1. Determine power draw of all loads and their average use hours per day.
2. Do the math, resulting in watt-hours or amp-hours per day each load. Add them all up.
3. I don’t think anyone has figured out a way to stuff more than a 100ah battery in the CI battery compartment. Lithium is better for extended off-grid use because you can draw down 90%+ of its capacity, unlike lead acid deep cycle where drawing down more than 50 to 65% (depending on the battery) is going to shorten its lifespan, perhaps radically.
3a. How many days or hours will you get out of your “house” battery?
4. Now you can look at capacities of pony batteries and power stations aka sogens.
5. Now you can look at charging systems, including generators and solar panels. Open sunshine where you camp. Etc.

Highly recommended: the CTEK DC-DC charger/solar controller. The best way to shorten charging time AND extend the life of your house battery.

I didn’t see a refrigerator in your uses. It’s going to be plugged in 24/7 unless you have ready access to ice.

Putting all this info and formulas on a spreadsheet is really the best way to make sure you’ve got it all, your calculations are correct, and you can easily run alternative approaches while you’re figuring this out!

 

[taranis17]

All else apart, there’s some homework to do to even approach this question:
1. Determine power draw of all loads and their average use hours per day.
2. Do the math, resulting in watt-hours or amp-hours per day each load. Add them all up.
3. I don’t think anyone has figured out a way to stuff more than a 100ah battery in the CI battery compartment. Lithium is better for extended off-grid use because you can draw down 90%+ of its capacity, unlike lead acid deep cycle where drawing down more than 50 to 65% (depending on the battery) is going to shorten its lifespan, perhaps radically.
3a. How many days or hours will you get out of your “house” battery?
4. Now you can look at capacities of pony batteries and power stations aka sogens.
5. Now you can look at charging systems, including generators and solar panels. Open sunshine where you camp. Etc.

Highly recommended: the CTEK DC-DC charger/solar controller. The best way to shorten charging time AND extend the life of your house battery.

I didn’t see a refrigerator in your uses. It’s going to be plugged in 24/7 unless you have ready access to ice.

Putting all this info and formulas on a spreadsheet is really the best way to make sure you’ve got it all, your calculations are correct, and you can easily run alternative approaches while you’re figuring this out!

Dang it! Forgot about the fridge. Yes, this is a good place to start. Thanks for your post!

 

[taranis17]

Welp, I might have some unrealistic expectations, especially with that AC unit. Looking north of 4000-4500 Wh capacity needed.

View attachment Screenshot 2026-04-24 at 8.03.29 PM.png

Feel free to check my math.

Some givens:
- +20% derived from Wh total for unexpected draw and AC/DC conversion loss.
- Usage for DC components are averaged, while AC (air conditioning) is estimated high.

Two problems I see: Storage capacity and necessary solar input. If we go with two days of battery autonomy (no solar) that puts storage at 1000+ Ah, and with average daylight of 5hrs/day, I would probably need three 350 watt panels to recharge from 20% and still have usable power.

Too. Much. Money.

Looks like a hybrid setup would be the most cost-efficient - one or two 350w panels + 2000w generator for bad weather days.

(Sorry if this has been talked to death on here.)

 

[Carl U]

Within the General Topic there is a thread…. About those Solar Generators.. good read

About those solar generators

I probably have more of them than I need. But it's Black Friday and I'm sitting in front of a computer. What could possibly go wrong??? LoL! Last year about this time I bought a 1KWh Ecoflow Delta3 Plus for $600 which was a good deal. I used it this year and it works great. This year I didn't...

campinnforum.com

Bit of a wait till the Xmas deals but at least you have time to do some homework.

 

[Sweeney]

The EU220i does fine -- it will start the compressor even in eco mode --- but it does 'burp' which I find bothersome. I run mine on 'non-eco' and it is just fine.

You're definately a power user -- like me. More pawah! The onboard batteries are great for lights, maybe a portable fridge, and a mobile phone or two. Add a solar panel (or factory option) and a lithium batter and you'll be in even better shape. Starlink too is abig power draw...60 watts. for short-term use -- using it for an hour or two then turning it off you'd probably be ok too with the solar/litium setup...

The lithiums are great becuase they charge so fast...a lot more efficient than lead acid...

 

[SethB]

Off grid AC is really a problem!

If I ever have to reach for AC in the boonies getting a propane conversion for a quiet Honda or other gennie might make it work. I don’t like carrying gasoline… or dealing with it at a campsite!

Even with that I don’t know how many hours you’d get out of a 20Lb tank.

 

[taranis17]

The EU220i does fine -- it will start the compressor even in eco mode --- but it does 'burp' which I find bothersome. I run mine on 'non-eco' and it is just fine.

You're definitely a power user -- like me. More pawah! The onboard batteries are great for lights, maybe a portable fridge, and a mobile phone or two. Add a solar panel (or factory option) and a lithium batter and you'll be in even better shape. Starlink too is abig power draw...60 watts. for short-term use -- using it for an hour or two then turning it off you'd probably be ok too with the solar/litium setup...

The lithiums are great becuase they charge so fast...a lot more efficient than lead acid...

Aw yah, Moar Pawah! Augh Augh Augh!

I'm going with the onboard solar package in my build sheet. That includes a 100Ah LifePO4 battery, 126w of panels, CTEK controller and external connection. I hope that to be enough to keep it topped up and run lights and the 12v fridge. The Starlink Mini might be a problem though - from what I understand, the mini takes about 30w on average, 60w on startup/satellite acquisition. Running that for the workday is non-negotiable, so some sort of external power station + solar panel is going to happen, I suspect.

@SethB - I've heard good things about propane generators, specifically around maintenance (or less need for it), but I confess ignorance otherwise.

All this power stuff is speculation at this point. My first 6-12 months will be shake-down trips figuring out this and the rest of my gear setup. Boondocking for a week is a goal for when I really, really need to get away from people.

Digression: Cary sent me contact info for a very nice gent out in Ft. Worth who's been gracious enough to let me come see his 560 Ultra this coming Tues. He also has a modest solar/Jackery setup. Can't wait to see one in-person!

 

[tansi03]

(Channels inner Tim Taylor - augh augh augh....)

Maybe I'm getting a bit ahead of myself, given that I don't yet have a 560 in the garage yet, but I've been considering how best to outfit the rig for extended off-grid camping. 3-5-7 days max off-grid, then charge up for a few days (and get a hot shower), before moving on.

Options abound (power stations, types of solar panels, LifePO4 batteries, et al.) as well as opinion on what's "best." Since I work-from-home, I can also work from the road. A Starlink Mini is an absolute requirement, as is at least some Air Conditioning (what can I say, I'm a sensitive, delicate Texas flower that sweats like it's raining outside) and the ability to charge a Macbook and iPhone. An ice-maker would be nice too but I can cope.

Anyway, I'm considering a Bluetti Apex 300 system along with two 350w solar panels + perhaps a DC-DC charger or a Honda eu2200i generator (side question: will this be enough to kick over the AC compressor?).

The overall idea: plug the trailer into the power station and slow power drain/usage with 700w of solar input - basically stretch my usage out for 3-5 days of normal usage. I can also add additional batteries to the main unit if I find it falls short by itself.

The one bummer in this plan is the AC air conditioning - converting from DC->AC will hurt, not to mention aircon will be the biggest draw by far. Thinking about it more, I'm also going to lose on DC>AC>DC conversion charging a phone/laptop through the trailer vs charging directly from the Bluetti itself. Not insurmountable but... Hmm....

How would you guys do this? Or do I just have unrealistic expectations. I'm a sponge willing to learn....

your overall plan is solid but air conditioning is the part that will quickly expose the limits of any battery + solar setup. A system like the Bluetti Apex 300 paired with ~700W of solar should comfortably handle your “normal life” loads like Starlink, laptop, phone charging, lights and even some light cooking or fridge use if you’re efficient. The key win is to run everything possible directly off DC to avoid conversion losses.

Where things get tricky is the AC unit. Even with a soft-start, RV air conditioners are still very power-hungry and will drain a battery bank fast unless you have a very large capacity or significant solar overproduction. In most real-world setups, people either run AC sparingly (evening cooldowns, short bursts) or rely on a generator like the Honda EU2200i as a backup when needed. Your idea of using a generator specifically for AC is actually the most practical part of the plan.

So I wouldn’t say your expectations are unrealistic, just that “comfortable off-grid + full-time AC” usually pushes you into either bigger battery banks or a hybrid generator strategy. Everything else you listed is very doable with what you’re planning.

 

[taranis17]

your overall plan is solid but air conditioning is the part that will quickly expose the limits of any battery + solar setup. A system like the Bluetti Apex 300 paired with ~700W of solar should comfortably handle your “normal life” loads like Starlink, laptop, phone charging, lights and even some light cooking or fridge use if you’re efficient. The key win is to run everything possible directly off DC to avoid conversion losses.

Where things get tricky is the AC unit. Even with a soft-start, RV air conditioners are still very power-hungry and will drain a battery bank fast unless you have a very large capacity or significant solar overproduction. In most real-world setups, people either run AC sparingly (evening cooldowns, short bursts) or rely on a generator like the Honda EU2200i as a backup when needed. Your idea of using a generator specifically for AC is actually the most practical part of the plan.

So I wouldn’t say your expectations are unrealistic, just that “comfortable off-grid + full-time AC” usually pushes you into either bigger battery banks or a hybrid generator strategy. Everything else you listed is very doable with what you’re planning.

Thanks for this, and you’re absolutely right. Probably the most efficient thing I could do about air conditioning is move to a higher elevation. The amount of battery storage + solar panels at some point became too unwieldy and expensive. I appreciate you chiming in.