Jim wanted me to wait until he organized the photos so they can be used to illustrate the saga. I figure I'll be dead six years before he gets to it, so on with the story.
On the road to Monument Valley from Sunset Campground in the early dawn was a fun run amid the snowflakes. They danced in the wind like so many diminutive ballerinas, swirling round the vehicles as we drove down the long, lonely road. A sudden gust would throw them into tiny spirals that shot off in different directions. They chased us until we dropped below the magic elevation level where the snow stopped as suddenly as it started. Then the wind picked up and nailed us with red sand.
As we dropped back down into the valley, the junipers and pines vanished to be replaced with sparse vegetation scattered over miles and miles of rolling red and pink sandstone hills. Many small homesteads dotted the landscape, most with hogans, a testament to our entry into the Navajo Nation. The scenery continued tame for most of the ride until just outside of Kaynta (I think that's the name) where we made a long, slow right turn and damn near slammed the truck to a dead halt in the middle of the road.
I am a Zane Grey fan. I have read most of his books and reveled in his descriptions of scenery so intense I swear I could smell the sage brush. One look at the valley before us brought back snatches of some of his best works: Wanderer of the Wastelands, Wild Horse Mesa, The Mysterious Rider. Everywhere we looked we saw long stretches vermillion and purple flat land and out of this, great monoliths reaching up as if they held the sky in place. Atlas in stone.
We pulled off the road (trying to be respectful of private property) and snapped away like mad. The wind had eased and the snow had turned to hit and miss showers. This made for some fantastic skies and fleeting sunlight, so we had to move fast. Finally we continued on down the road. Breakfast was fast becoming lunch.
We stopped at a nice, clean little cafe called the Blue Coffee Pot and enjoyed some good, down home cooking. The cafe is a favorite haunt of the locals and we were surrounded by friendly, pleasant Navajos. I tired not to be rude and stare, but I'm an artist and people fascinate me. The Navajo are a lovely people with pleasing moon shaped faces accented with large almond shaped eyes that turn up at the end as if a smile is about to break loose. Their skin is the richest mahogany and the hair is so black as to have deep blue and purple highlights. Dimples are almost universal. Quick to smile, they impressed us as a very warm, congenial and pretty people. We left with full tummies and and fuller hearts.
Traveling through the valley, we stopped often for some truly spectacular shots. The rain storm scuttled in the distance, slinging clouds about, casting great shadows that raced along the ground and up the monuments and changed the earth and sky from red to pink to lavender in a heart beat.
We took a break at the visitor's center (no surprise there) just short of the main road to the official park entrance. A nice new complex, besides information it offered at least fifty small shops where one could purchase local crafts. Irresistible. Silver and bead-work was purchased while we enjoyed friendly conversation with the artisans. I made comment to the silversmith, Ernest Grey, about the beautiful land and how envious I was of those so lucky to wake up every morning to such magnificence. Ernest said how much he and his family loved living there and would never leave. I certainly could see his point, the lucky devil.
We continued on, stopping for more photo ops and eventually got to the main entrance of the park. Here we were informed that there were no roads through the parkland, no paved roads, that is. Most visitors park their vehicles and contract with the locals for a tour in four wheel drive vehicles. Since we had a four wheel drive truck, we could drop the trailer and take our chances with the dirt and sand roads. If we got stuck, we could hope for one of the tour jeeps to give us a rope out. Hhhmmmm... Ten dollars to drive 100 feet to a dusty parking lot, leave the trailer unattended and risk getting buried in a sand drift with another storm on the way. Nope. We turned around, traveled along the boarder of the park and saw some wonderful sights.
The day was getting on and we still had to travel to the Grand Canyon and our rendezvous with Jenn around 5PM. We made a quick stop at the local trading post/tourist trap, wandered around the shop and nearly got altitude sickness from the prices. Yikes! Off on the road again. It was only a three and a half hour drive to the South Rim, so we goofed off, soaked in the scenery, lunched on the road and visited some of the Navajo venders along the way. This was early in the season and not many were open, but we had fun and enjoyed friendly bantering with the artisans.
The road climbed out of the red stone valley, the density of the trees growing in proportion with the altitude. Soon we were traveling in a lush alpine forest, such a change from the sandy table land just a few hours back. Jim and I chatted non stop about the richness of the forest and wondered when we would get our first glimpse of the canyon when suddenly there it was.
Zion was mysterious and sacred, Bryce magnificent and Monument breathtaking, but nothing prepared us for that first view of the Grand Canyon. We gasped - no, really, we gasped! Jim pulled a questionable maneuver, drove the tuck over to the turnout and we just sat there and stared. We had been to the canyon many years before, so you'd think we would have been able to keep our mouths from flapping open. Nope. No memory is good enough, no photo big enough, no painting true enough to capture the staggering grandeur before us.
A vase chasm of fantastically carved and colored banded stone stretched for miles and miles until it vanished into that magic purple only found in great distances. Great shadows and huge bands of light moved across the enormous space creating gigantic geometric swaths of color. Golds, creams, browns and oranges crossed, collided and battled with reds, purples, greens and blues. The storm clouds overhead reflected the myriad of colors below and at the very bottom, a clear green snake that is the Colorado glittered.
And this was just the first turn out! It took a while, but eventually we closed our mouths (I only swallowed one small bug), hoped out and clambered around the rocks taking photos. It was only a few miles to the campsite, but we made so many stops we nearly were late for our reunion with Jenn. We finally made that last turn into the campground and after a bit of a search, there was Jenn (and the CI sticking our like a jewel in the wilderness) waving and smiling. We had been apart for only one day, but we missed her terribly. Warm hugs, laughter and boo-boo lips for not being allowed adjoining campsites (bad ranger, bad), we set up (a breeze as always) and headed off to the main hotel for a spot to catch the perfect sunset photo of the Grand Canyon.
And I'll tell you about that later. My neck is getting stiff and it's time to start dinner.
Tune in next time and
Camp On,
Sue