Ctek Installation

[gregangsten]

We're beating this to death, but another experiment is how does a fridge affect things? I travel with the fridge in the vehicle and it's going to be drawing power, keeping the alternator in demand which I would think would be enough to trigger the Ctek, at least when the fridge is on. My guess is that that is probably why others haven't found any problem with having the wire disconnected, so maybe in the end it doesn't matter much anyway.

 

[RollingRob]

I mounted a Ctek in the same location that the Morningstar solar controller was. It is kinda nice being able to check the indicator lights on it to see what is going on. My TV is a GMC Canyon and if I put it in Tow mode, then it is supposed to keep the alternator at hight output. The manual also says that turning on the headlights will also keep the alternator at high output - might be worth checking out on your TV.

Same on my GMC Sierra 1500 Z71, if I put it in tow mode, charging goes full time full charge. Verified about the headlights as well on my last return trip. The manual stated just as you said. Thanks!

 

[Ken & Peggy]

First of all, I'm would imagine that the voltage seen by the CTEK while the vehicle is running is definitely higher than when it's not running, just not high enough to get the CTEK to start charging. And if the red wire senses any voltage at all it tells the CTEK to start charging. That sound right?
I'm likely to get a TV with a smart alternator in the next month or two so I'd like to know what's going on. I'll be interested to see how the CTEK does without the red wire sensing any voltage. It would be nice not to have to remember to turn on the running lights.
I looked through the very brief CTEK manual but I didn't find the voltage necessary for the CTEK to start charging.

I talked with Craig at CampInn and Leo at CTEK and they both said if you connect the red wire on the CTEK to your tow vehicle/positive battery terminal you'll lose the isolation of the batteries (trailer and tow vehicle) that the CTEK provides when wired correctly.
Craig did suggest attaching it to the 'Lights' stud near the fuse box. For me it won't be an issue since I usually have headlights on. Maybe a sticker in the tow vehicle reminding to check lights would help. The alternative would be running a separate line from the tow vehicle, right?
It's all new to me - my CTEK arrives tomorrow...

 

[Ken & Peggy]

Got the CTEK installed today - it wouldn't have happened without Craig's help (just a FEW calls to Necedah) and the posts here. I mounted it in the curb side galley storage area, which required cutting a notch in the right sidewall to accommodate the wiring (which is mostly invisible under the back lip in the storage area). Also, it was mounted vertically, as far left on the back wall as possible, to allow access to the battery/wiring as needed in the future.
I haven't checked my work yet, but plan on testing the tow vehicle and solar tomorrow if I have time.
I feel much better about keeping the trailer battery more efficiently charged and extending its life.
Now, what's this Trimetric thing...

 

[Ken & Peggy]

Before I hook up my solar panel today to be sure the CTEK install was done correctly, I wonder if the polarity of our Zamp panel wiring could be an issue. I've read that Zamp reverses the normal polarity on their SAE connectors. It's worked fine charging the trailer battery til now, but the CTEK manual mentions not protecting against reverse polarity... Anyone know if this might be a problem?

 

[SethB]

I’ve purchased an experienced CTEK D250SA 12v/12v charger from another forum member who was upgrading for a new Lithium house battery.

Having taken a few things apart and given it a week of thinking, I’m going to replicate fernlane’s install above the battery. It looks like I have the needed clearances, excepting that I’ll need to do something about reducing the intrusion of the battery disconnect switch into the electrical compartment.

I would prefer to put it up in the kitchen cabinet behind the battery monitor & etc. but I *really* don’t want to have to drill a new hole through the countertop for the temp sensor. Though I have what looks like 10ga supply/load wiring up there for a factory solar controller, previous experience has shown that the silicone blob that seals the wiring passthrough can’t be easily removed… so additional wiring would need a new passthrough.

I will:
Decommission and remove the stock Morningstar solar controller, leaving the wiring for some potential future use. May be handy in the future…

Install the CTEK above the battery, including the connection to the lighting + post for a TV with smart alternator. My current TV has a standard alternator, from what I can tell, but this will be easy to do and will enable some other TV in the future.

Connect up the factory installed cigarette-lighter solar connector to the CTEK. I don’t currently run solar, but, future-proofing…

Install a cheap battery monitor while I have everything open and the tools out.

Install a USB charging port in the forward cabin cabinet; there’s 12v there, along with a cutoff switch with indicator light.

Somewhat surprising, I don’t think I’ll be connecting the charger’s AGM signal wire, though I do have an AGM house battery. Checking out the CTEK charging profiles and the battery’s specs it looks like it will be just fine with a standard lead-acid bulk/absorption phases charging voltage. Victron BAT412110081, CTEK D250SA.

I’d welcome any comments, especially on the potential benefits or disadvantages of the CTEK running at the battery’s “Normal” or “Fast Recharge” voltages. I’m thinking Normal might extend battery life?

 

[rotus8]

Check out my post here New Td Battery On Its Way
I put a victron charger there and had to modify the cut out switch to do it.

 

[SethB]

Check out my post here New Td Battery On Its Way
I put a victron charger there and had to modify the cut out switch to do it.

Noted, thanks!

 

[SethB]

I’ve purchased an experienced CTEK D250SA 12v/12v charger from another forum member who was upgrading for a new Lithium house battery.

Having taken a few things apart and given it a week of thinking, I’m going to replicate fernlane’s install above the battery…

The install is tested, complete, buttoned up, and ready to camp! I did replicate fernlane’s install almost exactly. The only difference was that there was slightly more slack in Alternator + cable from the tow vehicle, and was able to install the CTEK right-side up.

Another great electrical upgrade on a 2012, but bending over and leaning over to work in the electrical compartment is not fun!

One note: Due to some previous experiences of shorts to ground in the TD electricals, I tested before tying in the battery, and my continuity meter showed a + Post short to ground in the TD! This eventually turned out to be a false alarm; at the low voltage of a continuity tester or ohmmeter the CTEK will show continuity between the Ground and + Battery posts - situation normal, the CTEK tested good with a real battery and alternator and good on install.