Ctek Installation

We're beating this to death, but another experiment is how does a fridge affect things? I travel with the fridge in the vehicle and it's going to be drawing power, keeping the alternator in demand which I would think would be enough to trigger the Ctek, at least when the fridge is on. My guess is that that is probably why others haven't found any problem with having the wire disconnected, so maybe in the end it doesn't matter much anyway.

 

Same on my GMC Sierra 1500 Z71, if I put it in tow mode, charging goes full time full charge. Verified about the headlights as well on my last return trip. The manual stated just as you said. Thanks!

 

I’ve purchased an experienced CTEK D250SA 12v/12v charger from another forum member who was upgrading for a new Lithium house battery.

Having taken a few things apart and given it a week of thinking, I’m going to replicate fernlane’s install above the battery. It looks like I have the needed clearances, excepting that I’ll need to do something about reducing the intrusion of the battery disconnect switch into the electrical compartment.

I would prefer to put it up in the kitchen cabinet behind the battery monitor & etc. but I *really* don’t want to have to drill a new hole through the countertop for the temp sensor. Though I have what looks like 10ga supply/load wiring up there for a factory solar controller, previous experience has shown that the silicone blob that seals the wiring passthrough can’t be easily removed… so additional wiring would need a new passthrough.

I will:
Decommission and remove the stock Morningstar solar controller, leaving the wiring for some potential future use. May be handy in the future…

Install the CTEK above the battery, including the connection to the lighting + post for a TV with smart alternator. My current TV has a standard alternator, from what I can tell, but this will be easy to do and will enable some other TV in the future.

Connect up the factory installed cigarette-lighter solar connector to the CTEK. I don’t currently run solar, but, future-proofing…

Install a cheap battery monitor while I have everything open and the tools out.

Install a USB charging port in the forward cabin cabinet; there’s 12v there, along with a cutoff switch with indicator light.

Somewhat surprising, I don’t think I’ll be connecting the charger’s AGM signal wire, though I do have an AGM house battery. Checking out the CTEK charging profiles and the battery’s specs it looks like it will be just fine with a standard lead-acid bulk/absorption phases charging voltage. Victron BAT412110081, CTEK D250SA.

I’d welcome any comments, especially on the potential benefits or disadvantages of the CTEK running at the battery’s “Normal” or “Fast Recharge” voltages. I’m thinking Normal might extend battery life?

 

Check out my post here New Td Battery On Its Way
I put a victron charger there and had to modify the cut out switch to do it.

 

Noted, thanks!

 

The install is tested, complete, buttoned up, and ready to camp! I did replicate fernlane’s install almost exactly. The only difference was that there was slightly more slack in Alternator + cable from the tow vehicle, and was able to install the CTEK right-side up.

Another great electrical upgrade on a 2012, but bending over and leaning over to work in the electrical compartment is not fun!

One note: Due to some previous experiences of shorts to ground in the TD electricals, I tested before tying in the battery, and my continuity meter showed a + Post short to ground in the TD! This eventually turned out to be a false alarm; at the low voltage of a continuity tester or ohmmeter the CTEK will show continuity between the Ground and + Battery posts - situation normal, the CTEK tested good with a real battery and alternator and good on install.