Trouble Getting The Latch Down On The Trailer Coupler

Ben

Ben

Ranger
Donating Member
I am wondering if I am doing something wrong when attaching the trailer hitch as it seems much tougher than it ought to be to get the latch down. I tried raising and lowering the jack to see if that would make it easier but didn't seem to matter much. Is there a tip or trick that I should know about? Thanks. Ben
 
There is a large nut on the bottom of the hitch that can adjust the latch. Loosen the nut just slightly and the latch will be much easier to close. After the adjustment move the hitch up and down with the jack to be sure it doesn't move much when latched. This adjustment is there to accommodate slight differences in ball size.

This takes a rather large wrench or socket, you may need to get a service plce to do it if you don't have a proper tool.
 
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You can also try pushing the trailer backward and forward a bit once you've lowered it onto the ball. Do this while trying to push the latch down. It helps on our trailer.
 
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Evan said:
When you lower the hitch onto the ball, make sure it starts a bit behind the ball. Let gravity help it creep forward onto the ball as you lower it.
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This tip above is the one I read and now use.... and ever since when hooking up its Like butter! It really works.
 
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I had a very disturbing experience where the trailer popped off the ball at 55 mph on a rough freeway (580 heading out of the San Francisco area, though it is terrible in both directions). I had driven over 40 miles when it happened. The thought of having it ever happening again was bad enough that 45 minutes later we pulled off and had a horse-trailer hitch welded on. 100% worth the peace of mind. If you're ever in the SF bay area, the guys at "Travln Toys" in Tracy, CA were excellent.
 
Can you explain why this horse trailer hitch is better? How does it couple vs the standard hitch. Id love to know the details!
 
Mine takes a 3/4" deep socket. I have found the lockup to be a bare minimum if loose enough to hitch the trailer on the ball. To eliminate this I will tighten the nut about two full turns. It makes it tight enough not to fall off yet loose enough it doesn't bind. keep in mind you will need the socket and ratchet handy when you take the trailer off.
 
Tear Stream said:
Can you explain why this horse trailer hitch is better? How does it couple vs the standard hitch. Id love to know the details!
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That's a good question. I'm curious to hear what the old timers say.

First, to make sure we're all using the terms correctly (including myself) here's a good primer on receiver/hitch/coupler terminology. See chapter 2.

Here's my $0.02... For 99% percent of the potholes and rough roads out there the original coupler is probably fine. I had towed hundreds of miles on it before it came off.
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Besides the 7,000 lb capacity associated w/ the horse trailer coupler, I observe a thick steel housing that appears to clamp more fully around the 2" ball. (Does anyone know off hand the load rating for the original hitch?)
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The spring loaded sleeve slides over the closed jaw and is then pinned in place. Just visually comparing the robustness I can see a simple massive increase in mechanical strength (assuming comparable materials). But then I got curious to compare some numbers... looking at the opening where the ball is captured I get:

Original Coupler:
length = 1.53" (inside front to the movable sprung latch) This part pushes the ball into the domed pocket of the coupler.
width = 2.09" It has to be wider so the ball can fit in since there is no mechanical adjustment in this dimension.
Wall thickness = 0.17"

Horse Trailer Coupler:
length = 1.69"
width = 1.65"
wall thickness = 0.4" (minimum)

So, why is the horse trailer hitch better? It appears to me it captures the ball all the way around the stem, not primarily just from front to back. With such thick walls, the horse trailer coupler is not likely to be the part that deflects or fails on my next trip across 580.

**One other note, I thought I read elsewhere on this forum someone saying the sprung latch was adjustable so you could use different sized balls. This goes against everything I understand about towing - that the ball and coupler MUST be the same size. However you do it, get there safely.

Cheers,
--Ken
 
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I am impressed with the bulldog collar-lok coupler that is on our 560 (for all the reasons Ken outlines as strengths). Very easy to drop onto the ball and very secure.
 
Boy that coupler looks like some serious strength! And it does look to seat much more securely.. Is the operation the same? Align the coupler and ball then drop the coupler on it..? Then what is done to engage or close the system? A lever on the side vs the top?
 
Hello Tear Stream,

The operation is a little different. In the 4th photo from Feb 27th, 2018 you can see a jaw and a collar. Once the coupler drops onto the ball the jaw can close around it (see photo 3, bottom view). Then, the collar (w/ lever on top) slides forward and locks the jaw closed. Lastly, a pin keeps the collar closed. It is very easy and I am very confident when I use it.

Good Times!
--Ken
 
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