Running Lights Not Working

S

sarmay

Junior Ranger
We discovered last night that our running lights are not working. As luck would have it, I also forgot the user manual at home. The brake lights and turn signals are working, but we didn't have any running lights last night on the side or the rear.

Could this be a fuse we need to replace? If so, which fuse in the box do we need to replace? We have a 2017 560.
 
Your manual is downloadable on the Camp-Inn site:
https://tinycamper.com/documents/Camp-InnUserManual-2017.pdf

Looking at the lighting schematic on p. 61 your running lights and taillights are *not* fused in the camper. The first place to check is the fuse box in your tow vehicle!

Which makes sense - it’s your tow vehicle electrical system, not the camper’s, that provides power to running lights, tail lights, and turn signals.
 
Ground wire. In 90% of wiring problems, it bad ground. A good test lite if your friend finding this. Get a cheap test light….

a 20 buck purchase…
 
I would think poor ground would also affect the other lights. If you do purchase a test light or voltmeter you could find trailer pin and see if you get 12 v to the pin. If you do then it is not fuse or tow vehicle. Start at harness. If no power check vehicle is there is power then work to trailer.
 
Vince G said:
I would think poor ground would also affect the other lights. If you do purchase a test light or voltmeter you could find trailer pin and see if you get 12 v to the pin. If you do then it is not fuse or tow vehicle. Start at harness. If no power check vehicle is there is power then work to trailer.
Click to expand...

I bought one of these 7-way testers years ago. Don't use it very often but it would sure be handy in a situation like this. It would tell you if the problem was tow vehicle or trailer.
https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Tekonsha/6562.html
 
That would work too. A little salty at almost 50 bucks. Could get cheap voltmeter and have itin for other uses. I like having tools that serve more than one purpose.
 
I agree with Sweeney that it is most likely a ground issue. The 7-pin connectors can be fussy sometimes, too, due to debris getting inside, corrosion, or even just random mechanical shenanigans.

However, it might be worth verifying that you don't have multiple bulbs out, if you haven't done so already. We had multiple (new LED) running lights flickering and dying after we picked up #1003 Necedah. I just ordered more and replaced them...guess we just had a bad batch.
 
fernlane said:
I bought one of these 7-way testers years ago. Don't use it very often but it would sure be handy in a situation like this. It would tell you if the problem was tow vehicle or trailer.
https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Tekonsha/6562.html
Click to expand...
I purchased a “Curt” 7-way tester. Don’t recall whether I got it at my local Home Depot or on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EOWQY4/
11 bucks.

It’s sure handy, I keep it in my trailer tools bag. Answers a couple questions real quickly.

Did I mention the fuse box in the tow vehicle? I’ve had a couple such fuses fail over the years with various campers, but haven’t yet had a wiring problem on the TV side.
 
This is very interesting. We had a brake light replaced in the Tow vehicle. Luckily, I don't have anymore night driving to do on this trip, so we should be okay until I can get home and get the car to my mechanic.

The brake and turn signal lights are working just fine. It's only the running lights that weren't working.
 
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I have a fairly decent "Rv Repair kit" - Before covid hit I was in the process of setting up a mobile RV inspection and repair business. Regrettably (foolishly) abandoned my plan. I fully expected the RV industry to crash --- Boy, did I call that one wrong. "Us" guys here in teardrop world have NO problems at all compared to the trailers and larger mobile homes of whatever "class" -- most of the repairs are fairly straight foward but there are so many things to go wrong.

Regardless...Amazon sells one of these testers for like $15 or less --- I have one. My test light works too -- but lets face it, we're guys...buying tools you rarely use is fun :D

By the way, make sure you put some dielectric grease on the connector -- corrosion is a pain, its cheap insurance. Just make 100% sure you don't drop your plug into the sand...keep it as clean as practical. There are hooks which give you a place to hang the 7 pin on the jack. Keeps the safety chains off the ground too as a bonus.

Hanger:
https://www.amazon.com/GR-innovatio...eywords=RV+7+pin+hanger&qid=1625534600&sr=8-9

Dielectric Grease:
https://www.amazon.com/CRC-03082-Di...ords=dielectric+aerosol&qid=1625534685&sr=8-3

Test Plug:
https://www.amazon.com/NEW-SUN-Trai...ords=trailer+test+light&qid=1625534739&sr=8-2
 
Last edited:
SethB said:
Your manual is downloadable on the Camp-Inn site:
https://tinycamper.com/documents/Camp-InnUserManual-2017.pdf

Looking at the lighting schematic on p. 61 your running lights and taillights are *not* fused in the camper. The first place to check is the fuse box in your tow vehicle!
Click to expand...
Sorry, just thought of this too....

You have a fuse in the car fuse box that protects the car, and the trailer. In order for it to be the problem, your car lights would fail as well.

But if you have a lighting controller installed (as most modern cars require) it also probably has a fuse in the wire to the power supply for the controller itself. This would be somehwere near where the installer connected the controller to 12 volt...this becomes an exercise in following wires...but the fuse is a small inline fuse located along the wire (I think its yellow or white on mine) coming out of the controller box...sorry I can't be at all specific here.


https://www.amazon.com/CURT-56261-V...ailer+light+controller&qid=1625570335&sr=8-12
 
Sweeney said:
…You have a fuse in the car fuse box that protects the car, and the trailer. In order for it to be the problem, your car lights would fail as well.

But if you have a lighting controller installed (as most modern cars require) it also probably has a fuse in the wire to the power supply for the controller itself…
Click to expand...
Sarmay never shared what their tow vehicle is. My experience has been that trailer harness fuses in the TV really vary. Especially with trucks, maybe with some SUVs, if the car/truck manufacturer had a strong trailer-ready orientation there can be trailer-dedicated relays and fuses for running lights, turn/brake, backup, etc.

My previous two Nissan Frontiers were like that, with (at least) 2 fuses in the TV fuse box for the trailer. I think many pickup trucks that come with factory/dealer 7-pin are set up fused that way.

OTOH, my current Toyota Highlander required inline fuses & a relay behind the wheel well for the conversion to 7-pin. Perhaps that’s the lighting controller Sweeney referred to above.

It can be a merry chase. I think I caught that Sarmay was looking forward to taking their rig in for professional service. I do recommend that fuses are the first thing to check when electricity isn’t making it some place that it should.
 
[I think I caught that Sarmay was looking forward to taking their rig in for professional service. I do recommend that fuses are the first thing to check when electricity isn’t making it some place that it should.[/QUOTE]

We tow with a 2012 Subaru Outback 2.4i. We had two electrical problems with the camper on our 1,700 mile round trip from Tucson to Glenwood Springs, CO. The running lights on the camper didn't work, and the USB port outlet in the cabin (the outlet next to the thermostat) quit working on the second night of our trip. I have to run to the store to pick up some extra fuses to try to fix the USB port outlet. I'll leave the running light issue to our car mechanic. If he can't fix it, then I'll test the 7-pin connecter on the camper itself.

Thanks, everyone!
 
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