Camping Knife Advice?

[manuel palmer]

I’m planning a couple of outdoor trips this year and realized I should probably upgrade my camping knife. My current one works, but it’s nothing special and struggles with tougher tasks like small wood prep.
While browsing around online I came across some beautiful collectible knives at Noblie, which got me thinking more seriously about quality and craftsmanship in knives.
That said, I’m mostly focused on practicality for camping. Do you guys prefer a sturdy fixed blade or something lighter and folding for general outdoor use?
Any advice would be appreciated.

 

[Sweeney]

There's a lot of what if's there. My EDC is a folding box knife, utility knife. Rarely do I need to do anything that requires more than a good sharp razor blade. I open boxes with abandon, and worry not about staples and the natural dulling action of cardboard. The blades cost pennies, and you're at most 30 seconds away from a 100% new edge. But this is "edc"

If I want something more traditional, then a Kirshaw Brawler is my go to now. However, If I could find one I'd love a Balckie Collins (RIP) Bolt Action (Gerber sold in the 80s and it is my favorite knife overall)

Now, your question -- camping knive. If I'm thinking wood processing and general around the camp site kind of things -- I love my KaBar tanto. The steel holds an edge better than anything else I've owned, has a stiff spine and a robust handle. The tanto is personal choice without seration. Seration to me seems like more work to maintain than the benfit it gives.

 

[SethB]

Firewood prep - definitely fixed! I however am using a large Sven Saw and a “boy’s” size axe of 28” and a 2.25 lb. head for splitting. Every price level is out there! Both of these can live in the tongue box of a CI…

Batoning with a large knife does look very manageable for splitting, I’ve just never done it. I don’t think people were doing much of that when I was learning campcraft skills.

Around camp I tend to use a fixed Morakniv Companion. Only a 4” blade but super sharp and is very heavy duty for its size. There’s a stainless steel version for fishing/boating.

Around everywhere I quite like a Leatherman Wave Plus multitool, with some extra bits. Great blade, great pliers, great small file, good small scissors, ok screwdrivers; it can do a lot.

 

[Matt 25-560]

For more than 10-years now I’ve carried a Leatherman Skeletool CX. This is smaller and lighter than other Leatherman tools I have but has one of their best blades, good light duty pliers/wire cutters and interchangeable screwdriver bits. The included bits are #1 & #2 Phillips bits as well as 2 straight bits however they do have an add on set that includes many hex, torx, Phillips and flat blades one would typically need.

I’ve lost a couple of these over the years and switched back to my other Leatherman or Gerber tools when that happens. However, I always end up replacing the Skeletool because it is so ideal for EDC. None of the bulk for a ton of tools I just don’t need or use.

Oh, the ‘biner also works as a bottle opener if that is important.

Not a big knife for splitting wood, but perfect for shaving kindling to start a camp fire.

 

[Sweeney]

For more than 10-years now I’ve carried a Leatherman Skeletool CX. This is smaller and lighter than other Leatherman tools I have but has one of their best blades, good light duty pliers/wire cutters and interchangeable screwdriver bits. The included bits are #1 & #2 Phillips bits as well as 2 straight bits however they do have an add on set that includes many hex, torx, Phillips and flat blades one would typically need.

I’ve lost a couple of these over the years and switched back to my other Leatherman or Gerber tools when that happens. However, I always end up replacing the Skeletool because it is so ideal for EDC. None of the bulk for a ton of tools I just don’t need or use.

Oh, the ‘biner also works as a bottle opener if that is important.

Not a big knife for splitting wood, but perfect for shaving kindling to start a camp fire.

Do they use the same steel in the blade as they do in the lethermans? I'm probably doing something wrong, but I can never get a good keen edge on them...to my hand it just feels 'over hard' then again that is the same thing with the K-Bar...putting a edge on them is a challenge, but they hold it for a long time

 

[Matt 25-560]

Do they use the same steel in the blade as they do in the lethermans? I'm probably doing something wrong, but I can never get a good keen edge on them...to my hand it just feels 'over hard' then again that is the same thing with the K-Bar...putting a edge on them is a challenge, but they hold it for a long time

As I recall, this CX version has a harder stainless (they have 3 Skeletool models the others have a different steel, one has a serrated blade) that they sharpen better. My blade with not too much abuse and only minor care has retained a sharp edge for many years. I’m sure I’ve honed it occasionally with other knives, but minor laps with a fine diamond stone have kept it sharp despite my abuses.

 

[Sweeney]

As I recall, this CX version has a harder stainless (they have 3 Skeletool models the others have a different steel, one has a serrated blade) that they sharpen better. My blade with not too much abuse and only minor care has retained a sharp edge for many years. I’m sure I’ve honed it occasionally with other knives, but minor laps with a fine diamond stone have kept it sharp despite my abuses.

I've probably spend as much on sharpenig stuff as I have my knives. I keep one of these in my camper - they are fantastic tools to keep things touched up. Of course, I've got the ken onion belt sharpener as well, and then there is the tormek...It was amazing what I thought I _needed_ in 2021. Retail therapy was a thing...

 

[Matt 25-560]

I've probably spend as much on sharpenig stuff as I have my knives. I keep one of these in my camper - they are fantastic tools to keep things touched up. Of course, I've got the ken onion belt sharpener as well, and then there is the tormek...It was amazing what I thought I _needed_ in 2021. Retail therapy was a thing...

As a lifelong hobbyist woodworker, I would hate to attempt figuring out how much I’ve spent on sharpening equipment.
While sharpeners may be multipurpose, to get the sharpness needed on gouges and turning tools requires something entirely different than straight blades. Bench stones (including diamond “stones” are always good. Of course chainsaws, pruners all require something slightly different for the best edge . . . all to say I have an assortment of sharpening tools as well. What ever works in the situation and is close at hand is the best sharpening tool to use. Can always rework an edge when you have the “better” tools at hand.

 

[Sweeney]

As a lifelong hobbyist woodworker, I would hate to attempt figuring out how much I’ve spent on sharpening equipment.
While sharpeners may be multipurpose, to get the sharpness needed on gouges and turning tools requires something entirely different than straight blades. Bench stones (including diamond “stones” are always good. Of course chainsaws, pruners all require something slightly different for the best edge . . . all to say I have an assortment of sharpening tools as well. What ever works in the situation and is close at hand is the best sharpening tool to use. Can always rework an edge when you have the “better” tools at hand.

Thats true...or one of the best excuses for so many tools I've ever seen But youre right a bastard file compared to a rat tail when touching up a saw...the justification writes itself. And except in the field I'd never use either of them...there I like the Stihl quick sharpener

Oh, I got it bad LOL!!!!