About those solar generators
- Thread starter JohnC
- Start date
The Postman
Ranger
I see that. Goal Zero makes good stuff. A little more pricey and falling behind a bit on all the fancy features per a couple reviews. I'm less interested in blue tooth apps to control things as that adds another layer of complexity, things to go wrong. The Victron ios app for ac charger and shunt is great when it works on the Precision 110 bat/tree but often requires cellular to update software...
Murphys Law of Technology ...
while boondocking...in-op when you need it most.
My Victron built in solar charger requires cellular for app firmware updates but it works on Bluetooth anywhere. And firmware updates can be delayed without interfering with its usage.
Received both in great shape the panels were double boxed great condition The Anker battery looks like it will fit perfectly under the back seat. We should be able to run the fridge and not worry if we’re parked somewhere.
Question I have…. Between the XT60 connector to the baterry / charging unit and the MC4 connectors on the solar panels which would be better for an extension cord?
Reading up on this there doesn’t seem to be a big difference in drop of charge. I am thinking of getting a 50 ft. XT60 extension cord to the pigtail MC4 connectors, the supplied cord is about 10 feet. Not only would barely make it to the other side of the camper it would probably come up short of moving it out of the shade into the sun!
Question I have…. Between the XT60 connector to the baterry / charging unit and the MC4 connectors on the solar panels which would be better for an extension cord?
Reading up on this there doesn’t seem to be a big difference in drop of charge. I am thinking of getting a 50 ft. XT60 extension cord to the pigtail MC4 connectors, the supplied cord is about 10 feet. Not only would barely make it to the other side of the camper it would probably come up short of moving it out of the shade into the sun!
The Postman
Ranger
I've fooled with running one or two 100w panels in parallel, with 100ah sogen in car, cables routed out a window....you're right, you want enough cable to be able to move panels 2-3 times a day to make them perpendicular to sun.
I've tried bungee-cording a 100w folding soft brief case type panel to the roof rack hanging off side of car, so all I had to do was move the car, but it was awkward and ran the risk of scratching car.
And I needed 200w of panels to fully recharge the sogen in 8-10 hrs of sun, probly as mine are a mix of a soft briefcase and a harder 100w folder, plus the extra cables and connectors to run in parallel. The more connectors, and the more cable, the more resistance and time to charge. And these are older panels, not as efficient as some newer.
From what I read MC4 are preferred for outdoor use. A short xt60 to mc4 for the cable inside the vehicle, connected by a long mc4 to mc4 cable run out to the panels would be most weather proof.
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This is what I was looking at
The Postman
Ranger
Nice! I think you'll be all set, with an mc4 on the panel end of your extension cable.
Very interested on how long the Anker 2000 runs the CI AC...that's the killer app: nothing beats sleeping in a cool cave after hiking all sweaty in desert or being out in muggy swamp weather...
Looking forward to field report with pics!
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Personally I wouldn’t buy a long extension without an MC4 on one end. But you really have to ask yourself what else you may use it for. If your panel has MC4 connectors already then the one you linked to isn’t going to work.
If the panel has MC4 connectors off the back this would definitely be the right one depending on length and gauge preference.
Based on those photos you definitely should not buy the extension you linked to above. The one Dustin linked to is what you need.
Hey all, new owner of 903 thanks to @Lipster. I bought an Anker C2000 Gen 2 plus the expansion pack as a mini home backup prior to getting the our 550. During our first weekend camping at the factory tried some different ways to connect the sogen and feel there has to be some improvements.
Started with sogen with about 4096wh. I left this in the car connected to a Goal Zero Alta 50 fridge via DC cig lighter. I then ran an extension cable from the car to the trailer's shore power.
With the maxxair fan, phone charging, and CPAP connected via AC I was using about 74w on the AC cord. The Fridge would use 30-40w on the DC port when it was cooling. Overall for the night the expandable battery dropped to 50%, so about 25% of total capacity or 1000wh which seems way excessive. The thought is the shore power is continuously topping up the trailer battery and losing the efficiency converting DC - AC - DC.
To alleviate some of the loss I'm moving my CPAP to a DC charger, but the question is how can I best utilize my Anker. I would love to run the CI AC and the thought would be to connect the AC directly to the sogen while somehow charging the rest of the system via DC.
We did have the Cary retrofit the CTEK controller which works well with our RAV4 hybrid but for some reason does not work with the Renogy 100w solar panel (separate issue where the charger sees 21v then immediately drops)
One other note, there is also this pigtail which goes directly to the pos/neg terminals of the trailer battery. Not sure what this plug is, but could be another option in trying to make the system more efficient.
Started with sogen with about 4096wh. I left this in the car connected to a Goal Zero Alta 50 fridge via DC cig lighter. I then ran an extension cable from the car to the trailer's shore power.
With the maxxair fan, phone charging, and CPAP connected via AC I was using about 74w on the AC cord. The Fridge would use 30-40w on the DC port when it was cooling. Overall for the night the expandable battery dropped to 50%, so about 25% of total capacity or 1000wh which seems way excessive. The thought is the shore power is continuously topping up the trailer battery and losing the efficiency converting DC - AC - DC.
To alleviate some of the loss I'm moving my CPAP to a DC charger, but the question is how can I best utilize my Anker. I would love to run the CI AC and the thought would be to connect the AC directly to the sogen while somehow charging the rest of the system via DC.
We did have the Cary retrofit the CTEK controller which works well with our RAV4 hybrid but for some reason does not work with the Renogy 100w solar panel (separate issue where the charger sees 21v then immediately drops)
One other note, there is also this pigtail which goes directly to the pos/neg terminals of the trailer battery. Not sure what this plug is, but could be another option in trying to make the system more efficient.
Sweeney
Administrator
Was the CTEK set to 'smart battery' --- I seem to remember something about that --- Oh, for the days of a simple voltage regulator!
I did not see anything about the ability to change any settings.
Below is the tech spec and I was seeing voltage across the solar and ground of the CTEK go to 21v then immediately drop to 9v then 0. It was a 100w solar panel only getting about 30w. Thought I should at least see some charging.
Any thoughts on how best to do DC to DC for the sogen or just suck up the DC to AC conversion?
View attachment 1786993867573.png
Below is the tech spec and I was seeing voltage across the solar and ground of the CTEK go to 21v then immediately drop to 9v then 0. It was a 100w solar panel only getting about 30w. Thought I should at least see some charging.
Any thoughts on how best to do DC to DC for the sogen or just suck up the DC to AC conversion?
View attachment 1786993867573.png
SethB
Ranger
We have the same setup with CTEK DC/DC and Renogy 100w panel. Just to confirm, you *are* bypassing the controller on the Renogy to connect the panel(s) directly to the CTEK solar inputs?
Our use is a little different than @Ericp , on extended trips I charge a dedicated cpap 50ah lipo battery with a shore power charger or with the Renogy panel/controller.
I’ve only charged the CI battery on solar once, bypassing the Renogy controller, panel goes directly to the CTEK 12v charger.
I was trying to connect the Renogy to the 3 prong solar input which was getting to the solar terminal on the CTEK. To measure the voltage I had the panel in the sun at around 30 watts, had someone plug in the 3 prong on the outside then measured the voltage on the solar to ground terminal on the CTEK.
The Postman
Ranger
I think you are correct, in separating the functions of AC and DC in most efficient way.
How to power the Air Conditioner when away from a campground with 30a pedestal is the killer app...and you have enough reserve in that Anker...the question is how long?
That depends on variables like how hot is ambient air? how cool are you running the AC? how long?
Like the fridge...
if I am freezing water bottles overnight in my Dometic in the Sonoran desert at 85 degrees low humidity, its not as efficient as say, Floriduh at same temp 100% humidity...
Resistance in lines and connections also gobbles up power- so a long skinny AC extension cord uses more than a short fat one.
You might consider power out from the Anker to fridge via another DC outlet. Cigarette plugs are popular but also notoriously inefficient.
Does it have Anderson outputs like Goal Zero or other DC outputs you can make a pigtail to convert to match what plugs into fridge?
Changing CPAP to DC, yep. Dont use the humidifier heat function if possible...
Powering the Air Conditioner directly vs going thru the CI wiring - yep.
That would avoid the Anker topping off the CI battery, and converting to DC for the rest, and powering all that wiring- more resistance.
Let the house battery run everything on DC, and see how long it does. Fan draws some power, CPAP...maybe recharge phones and laptops in car off the Anker, along with fridge?
So, then trick will be how to power the AC alone...
If you can pull the AirConditioner you can see how its wired- again thats a Craig question, but if you can access that and splice in alternative AC plug and isolate rest of system...hmmm.
Like some of us who are adding new stuff in ways not available back in the day, its owner DIY of course...not factory warranty help, so at some point I figure I have to learn and DIY...a useful challenge and skill for other repairs down the road...maybe
maybe @Sweeney could be persuaded to accept a zoom consult for $$$. Or refer you to one of the RV Geek networks of folks like him...
It gets tricky and I say this as someone slowly puzzling thru things that are inherently obvious to people who do it all day, but ya gotta get your multimeter and ammeter in hand and patiently follow the logic chart.
"Where does the elbow bone connect to the shoulder bone to the..." and RTFM is my favorite reminder from car forums for noobs like me...
PS: Does the Renogy panel have an integral solar controller? Bypass or remove that as thats what Ctek does once solar connected.
As far as the Ctek-Renogy voltage shutoff- I'd call Ctek and Renogy or search for someone in a forum thats asked that. Amazing what AI like Grok can turn up, inc youtubes.
PS2: the plug connected to battery- did you call @Lipster ? That looks useful but lightweight like the signal wire on CTEK, that tells it your house battery is flooded lead, AGM, or lithium. Have you double checked that is correct for the battery you have, if you have replaced the CI house battery?
How to power the Air Conditioner when away from a campground with 30a pedestal is the killer app...and you have enough reserve in that Anker...the question is how long?
That depends on variables like how hot is ambient air? how cool are you running the AC? how long?
Like the fridge...
if I am freezing water bottles overnight in my Dometic in the Sonoran desert at 85 degrees low humidity, its not as efficient as say, Floriduh at same temp 100% humidity...
Resistance in lines and connections also gobbles up power- so a long skinny AC extension cord uses more than a short fat one.
You might consider power out from the Anker to fridge via another DC outlet. Cigarette plugs are popular but also notoriously inefficient.
Does it have Anderson outputs like Goal Zero or other DC outputs you can make a pigtail to convert to match what plugs into fridge?
Changing CPAP to DC, yep. Dont use the humidifier heat function if possible...
Powering the Air Conditioner directly vs going thru the CI wiring - yep.
That would avoid the Anker topping off the CI battery, and converting to DC for the rest, and powering all that wiring- more resistance.
Let the house battery run everything on DC, and see how long it does. Fan draws some power, CPAP...maybe recharge phones and laptops in car off the Anker, along with fridge?
So, then trick will be how to power the AC alone...
If you can pull the AirConditioner you can see how its wired- again thats a Craig question, but if you can access that and splice in alternative AC plug and isolate rest of system...hmmm.
Like some of us who are adding new stuff in ways not available back in the day, its owner DIY of course...not factory warranty help, so at some point I figure I have to learn and DIY...a useful challenge and skill for other repairs down the road...maybe
maybe @Sweeney could be persuaded to accept a zoom consult for $$$. Or refer you to one of the RV Geek networks of folks like him...
It gets tricky and I say this as someone slowly puzzling thru things that are inherently obvious to people who do it all day, but ya gotta get your multimeter and ammeter in hand and patiently follow the logic chart.
"Where does the elbow bone connect to the shoulder bone to the..." and RTFM is my favorite reminder from car forums for noobs like me...
PS: Does the Renogy panel have an integral solar controller? Bypass or remove that as thats what Ctek does once solar connected.
As far as the Ctek-Renogy voltage shutoff- I'd call Ctek and Renogy or search for someone in a forum thats asked that. Amazing what AI like Grok can turn up, inc youtubes.
PS2: the plug connected to battery- did you call @Lipster ? That looks useful but lightweight like the signal wire on CTEK, that tells it your house battery is flooded lead, AGM, or lithium. Have you double checked that is correct for the battery you have, if you have replaced the CI house battery?
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