Replaced Squeeling Brakes

Tom Sutor

Novice
After 20-30k miles the brakes on my 550 CI were making a loud squeeling sound during braking. After taking the brakes apart it appeared the armature needed refaced and the magnet replaced. However, seems nobody in the Pittsburgh area does that type of machine work so I went with a new brake kit (backing plate with shoes and magnet) and new hub and bearings both sides. Stuck with Dexter parts rather than the cheaper off-brand stuff.

Only have one side done and will finish up tomorrow, then do the lining burnish procedure. Hopefully the squealing is gone for another 8 years.

If anyone is interested, a link to the Dexter service manual is below. Dexter also has parts diagrams at the website. I'll try to attach the pdf documents from Dexter.

 

Attachments

Pardon the musings of a tech who has seen some bad things happen in a relatively short career.

I saw someone with a brake failure just last week, where the wheel was so hot you couldn't touch it. At 3 feet, you would feel the radiant heat through your pants. The root cause was a stuck brake. The frightening thing was that this overheating situation was at city speeds (30-40mph) for about 4 miles. Had they been on the interstate, it would have been much worse. If the grease had cooked out of the bearings, they would have lost axle lubrication. This is how weels just "fall off" a camper at highway speeds. I know at least one person personally who had this very thing happen to them. She heard something, felt drag and she slowed down. Milliseconds later she saw a wheel wizz past her passenger side, bouncing off into a farmer's field. It virtually destroyed her camper.

Replacing individual parts in trailer brakes, like the magnet, is rare and usually only done in emergencies, such as when the magnet is mechanically damaged but still functional. Even then, it's often not cost-effective because the magnet's price is high compared to replacing the whole brake assembly, and the way the spindle works to take of the entire brake assembly at that point is 4 more bolts. Its just not worth the headache to try part fixes.

Trailer brakes are more complex than a car's hydraulic brakes. They rely on mechanical components like levers and friction parts, beyond the brake shoes.

Here's how it works: when you activate the brakes, an electric current turns the magnet on (like wrapping wire around a nail to make it magnetic, as you might recall from school). The magnet sticks to the inside of the spinning brake drum, pulling a lever it's attached to. This lever pushes the brake surface against the drum to slow it down.

Over time, the magnet and drum wear into each other, forming a unique pattern, so they become a matched set. If you replace one, you usually need to replace the other to ensure proper function, as they rarely stay perfectly flat. Other parts, like springs and components, wear out with age and use. Because of this, replacing the entire brake assembly rather than individual pieces is usually better, as everything works together as one unit.

The ol' pad-slap brake job that you might do on your ol' jalopy can create a serious dangerous situation for a trailer. Probably not so much for a 1500 pound Camp-Inn. But most DEFINATELY is an issue with a 8,000 or 10,000-pound monster being pulled behind a half-ton pickup. Heck, I've seen 'full size' towables behind SUVs. But I assure you, the salesman said it was perfectly safe.
 
Last edited:
I had a squeal/grind that sounded like a rock stuck...checked the hub was warm, and tried the CampInn trick...back up and go forward, to dislodge a pebble- seemed to help a bit but still felt some grinding, still warm...so,

Brought it back to the barn and found and replaced a bearing gone dry and rusty, most likely driving long days in a heat wave and in some driving rain storms, camping by the saltwater on the way back, 6000 m round trip.

Did the other side the next weekend.

Def worth it to get in the habit of doing a visual check once a year at start of season.

Putting in new bearings is a bit messy but not at all hard to do with basic hand tools once you've walked thru it.

Tip: Worth it to buy a brass drift punch to tap the old bearing race out, and the circular tool to tap the new one in.

I keep them with a couple spare bearings and races in a ziplock bag in the under floor compartment with the spare donut. Dont forget the proper grease, and dont pack the hub full.

There is a long thread here somewhere with videos and pics.
 
Last edited:
You bring up a good point, Ranger, about setting the bearing race. The proper tool makes it much easier. Same with the grease seal.

Regarding Sweeney's comment, I had not worked on electric brakes before and did not realize how they worked. Now I think they are an inherently flawed design. The magnet is a steel shell encasing a friction element. The steel shell rubs against the cast iron drum surface. It must swing out in an arc to work the lever that applies the brake shoe. As the shoes wear the arc must get bigger. The harder you brake the harder the magnet sticks to the drum. I don't understand how the drum face, or armature, can keep from wearing unevenly since it is metal to metal contact with only the friction element for lubrication. Seems like a conundrum. Plus there are lots of openings for dust and dirt to get into the drum and increase wear of the armature.

On my CI the left side forward shoe was due for replacement and the armature and magnet were worn unevenly. The right site looked like new. Now why would one side wear uneven and the other side not? What causes uneven wear? I would like to know since it cost me over $400 to replace the parts and that's doing the work myself and only after maybe 20k miles. Heck, the drum brakes on a car can go 80k. The drums are around $100 each and no machine shop in my area was able to resurface them.

My guess is dirt getting in will aggravate wear. Also maybe not keeping the shoes adjusted up snug. Of course how hard you are braking. I also wonder if the need to have some slop or free play in the bearing adjustment allows the hub/drum to cock off sideways every time you brake, which could cause uneven wear.

Seems like maybe the best thing to do is check them visually at least once a year. Check for uneven wear on the magnet and armature and clean out the dust and dirt. Keep the shoes and bearings adjusted. My CI has the older style tang lock washer (pre 2002). Also there was no spindle washer as shown on the parts diagram, just the tang washer. I ordered the updated spindle washer, jam nut and nut retainer kit from Dexter. Their site claims it allows more precise bearing adjustment than the older style. FYI, Dexter sells the pair for $40:
 
Last edited:
When I said that the electric brakes on my CI were a flawed design, I meant electric trailer brakes in general. No way was it a negative comment on Camp Inn trailers. Their product is the best teardrop camper on the market!

You are absolutely correct! Electric brakes are an old-school technology, likely dating back to the 1940s. While an engineer somewhere certainly could come up with something else -- I doubt it would be as simple to work on. Frankly, the last thing we need is another simple solution replaced by an exotic computer-controlled thing. Frankly, once you understand how they work, they are really clever to the point of elegance.

(RANT MODE: ON)
I'm on a bit of a tear since I spent 4 hours trying to fix an RV refrigerator this weekend. An old absorption fridge would have taken 15 minutes to diagnose, and would have been fixed in another 15 minutes with off the shelf parts.
(RANT MODE: OFF)

Modern adaptations have improved the system -- the parking brake option, and the Nev-R-Adjust® from Dexter being one that I personally like the best. Adjusting brakes is a whole other kettle of fish.

But certainly campinn isn't responsible for this, these electro/magnetic braking systems aren't going anywhere soon, though I do wish on the bigger campers, bearings were sealed type like on our cars. Its a safety issue. Lifting a 21,000 fifth wheel to repack wheel bearings seems a bit excessive. Thank G-d our lovely little 1400# campers can be maintained as easy as they are!
 
Still about $3000 less than hydraulic :)

Though I do know the CI trailers sound loud. Growling. But every time I’ve rebuilt mine….they are normal. Maybe is the light weight? Dunno….

I’ll probably be doing mine again in two weeks at the Hoosier gathering. Demo the process. I have no idea why they are loud. I thought it was just me, but at CICO for the last two years….its not just me
 
Yes, trailer brakes like this always make noise. That is one of the most common questions we get asked and yes it is completely normal and not indicative of something wrong. The fact that the magnets on a electric trailer brake drag against the brake drum means there is always a rubbing noise when rolling.

Oh, and don't get me started on Dexter brake design, or more importantly the lack of. As anyone who has gone through a factory new camper orientation with me in the last few years has heard me swear that Dexter axle must have fired their engineering staff in or around 1973 because the automotive industry evolved bearings and brakes on automobiles significantly around that time period yet trailer brakes and bearing have not evolved at all. So, if anyone in the trailer hub/brake industry is reading this, get with the program and keep up with the times, you are only about 50 years behind the curve.

Cary
 
I’ve had 3 people tell my my brakes are shot this summer so far. They are fine. Magnets wearing flat, no scuffing. No dragging. They are just loud. Perhaps because the trailer is liht? Dunno.

But yah, you’re right Cary….the design is antiquated, being kind
 
Back
Top