Wrapping

Sweeney

Sweeney

Administrator
Got to thinking today. People are taking delivery having CampInn wrap them --- I assume this is purely a weather protection...

But this got me thinking --- there are 3 or 4 vehicle wrapping companies in my area --- and 3m does make a transparent wrap material.

Has anyone wrapped their CampInn's --- it would be awesome to be able to go out into the worst weather imaginable knowing the skin is protected completely wrapped in film...

I've seen this done on big rigs and obviously on the commercial vehicle with printed advertisement....

What did it cost you, and how did it 'wear'? To be completely wrapped in plastic is a thought that is sitting well with me at the moment --- but I don't know if I want to be the first :)
 
I would politely discourage the use of more plastic. A quick google search says 400 million tons/yr of plastic waste to oceans and landfill. That's 800,000,000,000 lbs. Or, 2,2 billion lbs/day. I don't know how much faster we need to destroy the thing we all want to get out and enjoy more of.

Alternatively, if one does wrap their trailer with plastic, what should they wrap the plastic with to protect it? When does it stop?

I'm not trying to be an ass.
Sincerely and respectfully,
--Ken
 
Hmm. I just assumed the "wrap" on the CI for drive home was something along the lines of shrink wrap easily pulled off but now I realize I dont even know what or how...

Sweeney in car world I'm guessing you know there is another term of "wrapping" that involved a custom cut layer that is often colored and patterned with logos, designs, changing color completely...race cars for ads etc.

They can be Simple to complicated here is one subtle example on a tow vehicle prototype, from 2015 NYC Winter Car Show.

And another that might be paint or a wrap that has the additional value of protecting paint as another layer of plastic wrap, from the elements.

You can get a shop to do the whole cars or just front bumper hood to help protect from gravel.

"Paint protective film" (PPF)

Is that what you are thinking of as "wrap".
 

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grasshopper said:
If so, wrapping the aluminum in PPF may be "problemstic" in terms of how it moght adhere to it over time- become brittle and hard to remove later...

I kindla like the crazy idea of full camo...
Duck Dynasty Option?
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Probably nothing that exciting --- I have a hard enough time finding it when coming back from the shower house at 2am :D

I"m thinking just clear with possibly adding an advertisement in the galley hatch for my wife non-profit cat rescue. She's saved hundreds of kittens who otherwise would have likely not made it --- and at least given a good life to those who would otherwise have been euthanized.

May be add a " <-- Passing side / Suicide -->" and maybe a high-viz strip -- I travel in the right lane but sometimes be pinched into the center and hate when people won't let me over into the "slow lane"...just a pet peeve.

My primary goal is to make water spots and salt a non-issue. I'd be going out this weekend if it weren't for road salt.

I've seen the wraps applied commercially, and they are very tight. I'm just curious if there are hidden parels that I haven't considered....your question of brittle and hard to remove being the one I DID think about...and I hope to find someone with experience to better know what questions I should ask when selecting an installer.
 
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The Short Short Trailer said:
I would politely discourage the use of more plastic. A quick google search says 400 million tons/yr of plastic waste to oceans and landfill. That's 800,000,000,000 lbs. Or, 2,2 billion lbs/day. I don't know how much faster we need to destroy the thing we all want to get out and enjoy more of.

Alternatively, if one does wrap their trailer with plastic, what should they wrap the plastic with to protect it? When does it stop?

I'm not trying to be an ass.
Sincerely and respectfully,
--Ken
Click to expand...

Don't think you are being a jerk, Sir. As long as you understand, neither am I when I am trying to preserve something I love and want to take care of and am not questioning your sincerity, or even agreeing with you on the use of PTFE bottles and the like.
 
Another option is a painted finish. Vistabules are painted aluminum. I don’t know what kind of paint they use. Often thought about a rhino liner kind of finish. There have been prior posts about someone using Rhino liner in place of the alcan cover.
 
Randy said:
Another option is a painted finish. Vistabules are painted aluminum. I don’t know what kind of paint they use. Often thought about a rhino liner kind of finish. There have been prior posts about someone using Rhino liner in place of the alcan cover.
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I just heard from my first wrapping company --- they do color wraps but not paint protection wraps so I'm back to square 1.

Painting -- always an option, but I love the aluminum look. Thats a 1 way trip...once you paint you can't go back...

BUT, this got me thinking... plasti-dip! You can get in just about any color you would want, it peels off and you can even do perlescent. Thanks to amazon card "points" --- a clear can will be delivered Saturday -- see what it looks like in a small patch

Cermic Coating is another thought that my wife had, but that doesn't last forever either and how do you know when it is failing...maybe. Ceramics on amazon have gotten cheaper...this might be worthy of consideration.
 
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Randy said:
Plasti-dip…….interesting!
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Plasti-dip vs wrap is an option that comes up on car forums I read, especially on modifying wheels, like alloyed alum, to give a different look/color for MUCH less than buying new...

Ok so no love for my hunter oriented CI as camper with rolling deer blind look?

Hmmm l, ok- how about that Toyota FJ color scheme its a functional classic...
White top for reflecting desert sun then something bright like utility yellow or first respinder red on sides so they cant miss ya while being passed...
 
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grasshopper said:
I think all of these plastic, paint, waxes options have come up in this forum in past with a couple addressed by Cary--thinking back on past browsing...
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We talked about some products like "Sharhide" but I don't recall details, I'm afraid too many gallons of water under that bridge. Cermic and Sharkhide (in my view anyway) have the major disadvantage that they do wear off and you won't know it until its too late...

grasshopper said:
Plasti-dip vs wrap is an option that comes up on car forums I read, especially on modifying wheels, like alloyed alum, to give a different look/color for MUCH less than buying new...
Click to expand...

This is what sparked my though process --- Oh google, you intrusive master --- after searching for paint protectant wrap and just wrapping in general --- next thing up in my youtube feed was dipyourcar. Thye started dipping with wheels, but hit has gone to a much much bigger application.

Funny you should mention aliens --- they make a glow in the dark additive, as well as color-changing, pearlescent, and heat sensitive....some of the videos are wild. Video's here

From what I can see, "dipping" is DIY-friendly but longevity is in question. Harest part would be the spray booth...which could probably be done with drop cloths in a garage. As a kid my dad and I painted an old '77 chevy nova with plastic staples to the ceiling....

The downside is that it is fairly expensive and it fades quickly. But since the camper spends its life in my garage, that life may not be as much of an issue, plus I'm looking at a "clear" untinted paint.

I've got some ordered spray can (11 oz aerosol can) and intent on playing with it. I have something I want to try sealing. Not exactly the same but I hope it gives me a "feel" for it.

Can you see a glow in the dark, perlescent, color changing CampInn at the CICO? That would draw a crowd.

Of course, that paint combination would probably be in the $500 a gallon and I think we're talking 2 gallons? I dunno...

It sprays on using an HVLP sprayer, very similar to the Wagner HVLP which I already own and use for home projects --- which is remarkably similar to what they sell (different color) and supposedly the Wagener I have is capable of spraying more than latex and oil --- For the cost of a new spray nozzle I may buy a quart and see what it does....
 
No tongue in cheek joke here -- these guys have an interesting little niche that they've carved out for themselves... and I have to admit I went down the rabbit hole pretty deep so far. They started with a yellow and added just a few drops of red and the dip color they came up with looked a lot like velveeta...I mean a LOT.

I'm actually starting to think about coloring the trailer :) and of course color matching it to my car. I've done some auto painting before - my Dad used to be a painter for AM General who makes the jeeps of 1970's and HumVees. That was shooting enamel, this looks a lot easier and certainly more forgiving --- you can peel off your mistakes.

The life of the dip seems to be 3-4 years, but it seems to fade a bit more quickly. But the product they are suggesting is Dip Armor which is supposed to reduce if not eliminate a LOT of those problems.

I picked up a rattle can of clear. Mostly to play with. It is quite satisfying to remove the dip. At least as much as it is to remove that plastic wrap from a new phone screen :D

I have been talking to one of their tech (Not Fonzie, but the other guy who appears in a hand full of videos (Gabe)) -- he said that just the campinn would be somewhere between small and a medium kit size. So buying the medium kit would be best...heavier/wetter thicknesses peel better.

I've used the Wagner branded sprayer that looks a LOT like their sprayer. I'm half way tempted to buy a sample kit and just try to shoot it with the sprayer I already have.

I'm thinking just white -- or possibly a red to match my tow vehicle....Nothing crazy. No glow in the dark, or color changing :) Although that would give a run for the money to the folks who mirror polish their CampInn's :D

The product recommended is this:

Apply Pearls Over Your OEM Color
 
Very kewl stuff Sweeney! The Dip Armor is the second layer over the first dipped color. That would seem to be the way to go IF using your CI anywhere subject to the kind of conditions I favor- dispersed camping, dusty, sometimes/often pin stripe scratches on tow vehicle when squeezing past trees or bushes on the track, doing a U turn, and/or backing into a brushy spot.

The reasons for me on color are two fold:

1. Vanity? Caution? I'm very slightly averse to the "public attention" of the very cool shiny aluminum egg, and prefer in general a more "down market look" from Baby Airstream...lol!

My hope is the fine patina and dust and a couple scratches here and there make it less attractive to the unwonted...I dont think I am antisocial just sometimes prefer solitude vs crowds. Plus anyone with sticky fingers... my VW has steelies on as they are strong, practical plus "ghetto"...;)
I am not sfraid to leave it at a trailhead for a day or two away out hiking...

2. My current lazy man approach also favors the "fine patina" character some here prefer on CI suggesting long well loved use...
which saves all that time buffing to give me more for camping plus long boring posts here...;)

3. I do wonder about the longer term corrosion protection as a GOOD thing vs PITA factor of washing, waxing, buffing the CI...

4. I dont care about color matching my car, per se, but I do wonder about the colors that help bounce off sun, like using white on top, vs absorb heat when desired -say...something darker on sides at low angles of sun.,,like one might design a desert home.

The only unknown question is just how hard would it be...removing plastic dip from a clear coated car is different than
Removing clear paint protection film
Or
Removing plastic dip from aluminum...
but much easier than removing paint, amiright?

The question is how easy to remove sun aged/hardened plastic plus Dip Armor second layer, and conceivably a third ceramic layer that on cars protects paint and makes easy to wash..

The nice thing about the CI aluminum is once you DO get a nice shine on it,
AND a couple layers of wax, its relatively easy to hose off grime and salt...

Hmmm... lots to noodle on...great idea, but
waiting on a beta tester...first!
 
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Say, anyome do the "brushed look" that Cary referred to once in a post...
Its a classic look not mirror finish...

I think the technique was to first get a real good shine on it with the aluminum metal polish (careful as a couple of the products mentioned are slightly caustic/need gloves, safety glasses and painters mask with filter...)

Then a circular application of fine steel wool,
Then wax on top buffed out nice x2.
This gives a smooth dust and salt shedding surface that doesnt invite strange people and grizziles walking in looking close to see their reflection in the mirror!;)

Anyone do that? Got pics, comments, tips?
I'm guessing this has been covered in faraway past posts but what the heck, lets fill in the new noobs like me...whats the old pro's say?
 
grasshopper said:
Very kewl stuff Sweeney! The Dip Armor is the second layer over the first dipped color. That would seem to be the way to go IF using your CI anywhere subject to the kind of conditions I favor- dispersed camping, dusty, sometimes/often pin stripe scratches on tow vehicle when squeezing past trees or bushes on the track, doing a U turn, and/or backing into a brushy spot.

The reasons for me on color are two fold:

1. Vanity? Caution? I'm very slightly averse to the "public attention" of the very cool shiny aluminum egg, and prefer in general a more "down market look" from Baby Airstream...lol!

My hope is the fine patina and dust and a couple scratches here and there make it less attractive to the unwonted...I dont think I am antisocial just sometimes prefer solitude vs crowds. Plus anyone with sticky fingers... my VW has steelies on as they are strong, practical plus "ghetto"...;)
I am not sfraid to leave it at a trailhead for a day or two away out hiking...

2. My current lazy man approach also favors the "fine patina" character some here prefer on CI suggesting long well loved use...
which saves all that time buffing to give me more for camping plus long boring posts here...;)

3. I do wonder about the longer term corrosion protection as a GOOD thing vs PITA factor of washing, waxing, buffing the CI...

4. I dont care about color matching my car, per se, but I do wonder about the colors that help bounce off sun, like using white on top, vs absorb heat when desired -say...something darker on sides at low angles of sun.,,like one might design a desert home.

The only unknown question is just how hard would it be...removing plastic dip from a clear coated car is different than
Removing clear paint protection film
Or
Removing plastic dip from aluminum...
but much easier than removing paint, amiright?

The question is how easy to remove sun aged/hardened plastic plus Dip Armor second layer, and conceivably a third ceramic layer that on cars protects paint and makes easy to wash..

The nice thing about the CI aluminum is once you DO get a nice shine on it,
AND a couple layers of wax, its relatively easy to hose off grime and salt...

Hmmm... lots to noodle on...great idea, but
waiting on a beta tester...first!
Click to expand...

Lots here :) I like the idea of a little shabby as well. We actually looked at this VW when it was listed on ebay years ago, or one extremely similar too it. That ain't rust...its paint.

The same I put down was on a disk of stainless steel I have here..and it came off just fine. How it would look in 3 years, I'm not sure....

The armor (clear coat) they use is removable as well -- according to them, it peels off just like the paint does --- it just adds a protection that isn't available in the plastic color layers. You can't put standard paint on top of it, auto paint uses thinners and solvents which are a problem for the dip.

You >MAY< be able to add auto paint on top of the armor though, this is one of the problems the armor addresses...petrolium resistance.

Yah, this is definitely a rabbit hole --- once the weather gets nicer....I like to paint in the 70's not teens...even though my garage is somewhat heated...its still is only in the 50's

03432178fbf15a6e2a7a2fe67d20bd1e.jpg
 
grasshopper said:
Say, anyome do the "brushed look" that Cary referred to once in a post...
Its a classic look not mirror finish...

I think the technique was to first get a real good shine on it with the aluminum metal polish (careful as a couple of the products mentioned are slightly caustic/need gloves, safety glasses and painters mask with filter...)

Then a circular application of fine steel wool,
Then wax on top buffed out nice x2.
This gives a smooth dust and salt shedding surface that doesnt invite strange people and grizziles walking in looking close to see their reflection in the mirror!;)

Anyone do that? Got pics, comments, tips?
I'm guessing this has been covered in faraway past posts but what the heck, lets fill in the new noobs like me...whats the old pro's say?
Click to expand...

I don't remember seeing that...was there a post to it? I think personally I'm still leaning towards plasticoating as my best preferred option.

For my skill level, matching texture with any kind of polish or texturing --- I just don't have the patience for it I suppose --- put a buffer in my hand and there will be swirls and spiderwebs. Its just something I've never been able to master. Dip is pretty obvious --- you either get a run if you put too much on or you get a thin spot which may not be quite as resistant to abrasion.

Ite not cheap but it is sold as "home" friendly solution -- and it seems to have a decent track record.

The wrap guys don't bring much to the table --- their wrap is thinner and has some of the same drawbacks. I've seen RV's in salvage yards with wrap, and it actually feels a lot like dip --- it peels the same way.

What I don't know --- is can you thin out plastidip enough to shoot it through an airbrush....then the fake rust stuff could be done ..... I like 'hoppers ghetto chique thoughts --- last thing you want is to have something stand out as pretty in sketchy places.
 
Ya, the plasti-dip seems like The Way.
I'll be very interested in how it works out for ya Sweeney!

I'm thinking plasti-dip my VW roof white for heat refection, and maybe same on the CO roof and galley hatch...it gets purty darn warm under there on a real hot desert day.

Then we'll see on sides if the dust and mud on top of patina and pin-stripes buffed out and rewaxed and a good hose bath needs extra improvement..

Anything thats another layer against lots of road salt is a good thing, and if plastidip plus Dry Armor holds up to some occasional hard use it might make sense...

say before the AlCan with its sticky caustic clay that tends to get sprayed up on sides and fenders,
Or to and from the Nest for winter work,
or passing thru some high country on a long trip with snow at times.
 

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grasshopper said:
Ya, the plasti-dip seems like The Way.
I'll be very interested in how it works out for ya Sweeney!

I'm thinking plasti-dip my VW roof white for heat refection, and maybe same on the CO roof and galley hatch...it gets purty darn warm under there on a real hot desert day.

Then we'll see on sides if the dust and mud on top of patina and pin-stripes buffed out and rewaxed and a good hose bath needs extra improvement..

Anything thats another layer against lots of road salt is a good thing, and if plastidip plus Dry Armor holds up to some occasional hard use it might make sense...

say before the AlCan with its sticky caustic clay that tends to get sprayed up on sides and fenders,
Or to and from the Nest for winter work,
or passing thru some high country on a long trip with snow at times.
Click to expand...

That your current location? I'm jealous!

I think (80% sure) this is how I'm going to go --- the price is high. But this has been an interesting though experiment anyway. I have another use for it if I don't do my camper.
 
grasshopper said:
That was awhile back passing thru from Salt Lake to Lost Wages with the CI in utility cargo trailer mode...the CO gpt a good bath after that one...

Here is another pic on a winter shuttle trip with a bit pf road salt just before going thru the car wash at -30F outside...Fargo ND.

And why its a good idea to get a wrap for delivery...

Or good wax jobs after a polish otherwise!

Re: plastidip: I'll be following your beta test with great interest!
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Alpha test first --- don't want to drop $800 without something smaller first...I might black out my wheels on the car or something smaller first...
 
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