Alcan Cover Replace Alcan Cover With Bedliner Paint?

great idea. I’ve seen wraps on rvs before, they look really good...and they come off easily. If the need ever arises...not much unlike the screen protectors.

 

From what I've read, it doesn't sound like the places that sell wraps want to apply them to bare aluminum, so it might be a bit of bigger deal if you have to acid etch, prime, and paint first before applying a wrap. If someone finds out something different, I would be interested in investigating that option too.

 

What about the sprayed ceramic coating they apply to Airstream trailers?

 

Then of course there is shark hide....

these don’t provide any impact protection, and I think that is the biggest protection the Alcan really gives....

 

Clear coats like the ceramic Linda mentioned and the Shark hide would be bad for frontal protection. Anything that can chip off like this will create corrosion problems under the clear coat once struck by a stone. We strongly urge our customers to stay away from clear coats on the metal, especially the front of the camper.

The Alcan cover is designed specifically for dent control. Particularly the shale rocks found on the roads in Alaska (hence the name) which have a tendency to hit like a bullet. The Alcan has a specific foam density behind the tonneau cover material on the outside to reflect these impacts.

The truck bed liner coatings work well as a substitute because of the thickness and the reinforcements in the material. But, I would not run any material with less impact absorption or resistance than the truck bed liner or our Alcan cover option.

Cary

 

Thanks for the clarity on this topic. If you are looking purely for Sodium protection and are not concerned about road protection -- you've already got an ALCAN for that. I'm more worried about the sides....Aluminum does not deal well with road salt. Please note, that is properly pronounced with 4 syllables LOL) What is your experience with Shark Hide? I know pontoon owners who SWEAR by it.

Nice to know Alcan comes from that magical road -- I was curious where the name came from .

Bottomline, with the Alcan cover my sides and roof are still exposed. I want to protect them. Am I still better off relying on a good waxing? I'm going to bet that I am. More speculation, wax is cheap...and far more simple in its approach.

Is there a real difference in the Marine Waxes?

 

We don't have any experience with Sharkhide. I would be very apprehensive with it due to our views on clear coats. I would still stick with the strong suggestion to not use any clear coats.

Marine waxes. The issue right now is the two go-to marine paste waxes, Woodies and 3M are no longer produced. So, we currently do not have a marine wax recommendation. Stay tuned another brand is in testing by a experienced owner.

Cary

 

Use Collinite 885 Paste Wax

 

Thx, dude

 

Thanks dude...looking forward to updates on how its working for ya.
Is this the one Cary referenced or?

 

Kevin, you might want to wax yours when you pick it up. This time of year can be rough on aluminum.

 

Collinite 885 Paste Wax - looks great, and well liked by its users.

We're supposed to be picking up our rig in mid November - we are still waiting on the confirmation of the delivery date. Whatever it is, its too close to salt season.

If this were June or September, I'd not be worried at all...but any salt is disastrous to aluminum. I would really like the extra wax protection, just in case. We are skating a THIN line! Accuweather is saying mid 40's as daytime high...likely around 4pm, right about the time we finish orientation....an hour or two of light, just enough to get on a wax coat with two people applying feverishly.

My question - will this paste wax (I assume carnauba based?) dry to a haze at these temps? I've never been crazy enough to wax a car in the 40's. This is definitely NOT something I WANT to do.

OK, don't freak out...

I wonder if a quick kiss with a a heat gun, hair dryer, or other heat source to raise the surface temperature to 'warm' then another quick 'kiss' to dry the wax to a haze would work....just a couple degrees, just warm to the touch. The biggest problem I see is if the sides are adhered, that the thermal expansion by applying heat to a square couple feet will do bad things.

Definitely not heating to "hot" - just 'warm' enough to encourage the flashing off of the volatile elements.

 

The folks at Camp-Inn are pretty nice to work with, and I would bet that if you asked, they would have your new jewel inside their warm shop when you come for your orientation, and might let you spend a little time inside their facility applying your protective coat of wax before venturing out into the cold harsh world for your journey home.

 

Talk to Cary and Craig. You certainly could slip it inside and wax it

 

Thanks for the tip!
Wonder why not the metal wax made by Collinite?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/cr/B0006FKDVK/ref=mw_dp_cr

 

Thanks, Bill. Good tip.

 

Beautiful shine, Bill.

 

Kevin, this was only a hand polish .

I had a quote of $1,000 - $1,200 to "polish" my trailer to a mirror finish. I am going to purchase a variable speed polisher, the correct airway buffing wheels, rouge, and towels and try it my self over the winter. If I have it polished, I will need to have it done again so I might as well do it myself.

 

I am picking up a Makita polisher and supplies from Evan's polishing in Chilton WI. A few years back I borrowed a polisher and did my old boat bottom. It's a dirty job but rewarding to see it complete