Outback Tv Cruise Control

S

sarmay

Junior Ranger
We have a 2012 2.5i Outback with the 1 1/4" factory hitch. I had our mechanic install the 7-pin connector that Cary recommended, and our new-to-us 560 has electric brakes. As we were towing her home this weekend, the tow felt fine. We didn't even notice any additional drag on the car or an impact on our gas mileage, but when we reached Indio, CA, we had several lights come on all at once: brake and cruise control lights started flashing, and the traction and engine lights came on as solid lights. There was nothing amiss: the car felt like it was driving as normal, the engine was not revving or overheating, there were no weird smells, smoke, or other indication of a problem, but the cruise control would not operate after that.

We were not able to find a mechanic or Subaru service center that was open in the Palm Springs/Indio area, and since the car seemed to be driving just fine and it was 107 degrees in Indio, we decided to just head home and skip an overnight at Joshua Tree NP. I dropped off our Outback with our mechanic this morning to figure out what happened, but we're wondering if anyone else has any experience with the cruise control blowing out (or that combination of warning lights coming on) while towing?
 
Wow, pretty scary, I'm glad you made it home OK. Too bad about missing Joshua Tree, it's very nice, though it would be pretty toasty this time of year.

To me, your problem sounds electrical in nature, possibly something with the 7-pin installation. The engine light means there will be codes to scan which may give the mechanic some clue where to look first.

Please let us know what he finds, very interesting symptoms
 
Well. The problem had nothing to do with towing at all; that was just a coincidence. Apparently, the seal on the gas cap has worn, and when the gas tank didn't properly seal, it caused the warning lights to trigger because the computer thought there was air where there shouldn't be. So, with a new gas cap, and the cost of the diagnostics, everything is fine.
 
sarmay said:
Well. The problem had nothing to do with towing at all; that was just a coincidence. Apparently, the seal on the gas cap has worn, and when the gas tank didn't properly seal, it caused the warning lights to trigger because the computer thought there was air where there shouldn't be. So, with a new gas cap, and the cost of the diagnostics, everything is fine.
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The exact same thing happened to us travelling down I-84 when it was 104 degrees in our then new 2012 Outback (not towing). It was a real pain to finish a long trip without cruise control. Ever since then, I have become careful to make sure that the gas cap is very firmly closed and thankfully it hasn't happened again. I also started carrying a wrench that I can use to disconnect the battery cable to reset the codes (regaining cruise control) if it ever happens again.

Mark
 
Mary & Mark said:
The exact same thing happened to us travelling down I-84 when it was 104 degrees in our then new 2012 Outback (not towing). It was a real pain to finish a long trip without cruise control. Ever since then, I have become careful to make sure that the gas cap is very firmly closed and thankfully it hasn't happened again. I also started carrying a wrench that I can use to disconnect the battery cable to reset the codes (regaining cruise control) if it ever happens again.

Mark
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Our mechanic ($117 later thanks to the diagnostics) recommended that we go get the computer update and a new gas cap at the dealer. He also told me that when the check engine light comes on as a solid light and not a flashing light, as long as everything seems, feels, and smells okay, we can safely continue on our journey, but if the CEL is flashing, we need to pull over immediately and call for roadside assistance. That was useful information.
 
This combination of lights goes on from time to time on our 2010 Forester. It could mean the gas cap isn't tight, needs to be replaced. oil is low, nothing, etc. I'll plug in the computer code reader, but we just ignore it. This seems to be a Subaru false warning most of the time. Nothing terrible has come of it thus far and after almost 12 years of ownership, I've come to ignore it. I'll tighten the gas cap or check the tires for low air, and check the oil to see if it is low, but pretty much it's not worth the $$$ to take it to a mechanic. That's what I've read online too.
 
Beats what our 2012 did. Running 100% fine for hours straight...then, no warning...at 1:00AM some where in the middle of Georgia...It went into "Limp home mode" with quite literally every light on the dash flashing or it, not going any faster than about 30 MPH.

Since it was running fine 3 seconds before this happened, I stopped at the next Walmart picked up a code scanner to see what was there. I can't recall the codes, but nothing sounded like "Out of time" or catastrophic. I wrote them down, cleared the codes....and went on my way like nothing happened driving cautiously for many miles. But, it was driving just as if nothing had happened

I'm not a hard-core mechanic -- but I am capable of doing my own maintenance, and even some more basic repairs. I ran this by my professional mechanic said the codes were really nothing to worry about and that Subaru, in his experience, over-reacts to what should be a check engine light with a light show. He also said that check-engine lights USUALLY are emissions malfunctions...and as long as its running smoothly, coolant is OK, Oil is OK...its usually no issue that needs panic.

The limp mode is what hurt....interstate at night at 30 mph....thank goodness it wasn't rush hour, that I had a GPS, that a walmart at the next exit, and they were open. I won't travel without a code scanner any more.

The loose gas cap is P0440 by the way. Cost me $70 to learn that lesson once.
 
I'd add that if you ever decide to replace a gas cap (the least expensive first step to resolve a pesky error code many times), be sure to buy the manufacturer's original equipment cap.
 
Crazy all those warning lights for bad gas cap. I can see check engine light since it is emission related. Most check engines are that reason, weird part is the cruise, brakes and traction lights. These usually are not emission and caused by faulty sensor like wheel speed sensor since all these circuits are monitored at the wheels. If you check codes you may find stored codes.
 
GreenBush said:
Good to know for Subie tow drivers.

VWs have similar check lights for various codes which can be diagnosed and software changed with VagCom cables/Win7 software or now on OBD11 for iphone.

Diagnosing a random dual color LED fog light code for source:
Is it cornering function OFF(?), or
upgraded AGM battery in tow car, or
The Curt Harness 4/7 pin install drawing more current...?

VW uses canbuss in mk7 thats tricky to back engineer if you dont get the factory tow pkg only available in Germany, natch.
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Fine German Engineering! Love the way the cars drive. Their motorcycles are even better. But I can tell you, working for a company based out of Germany, they love to make things over engineered and complex.

Theres a little comfort in knowing its all car companies that do stupid stuff like this. It seriously -- makes me want to try to find an ol' 70's or earlier car that has simple hydraulic and mechanical actuators and restore it. Ideally (ironcially) a VW beetle. From experience, I know that they can be be maintained by just about any reasonably mechanical person and a modest set of tools.

Sadly, really not a tow vehicle. Love 'em -- don't get me wrong -- but they have a hard time getting out of their own way (unless you drop a small block V8 in the back seat) and put slightly wider tires on it.
 
I have a 2015 XTerra tow vehicle, with manual transmission. While using cruise control on the interstate all the warning lights came and it felt like the clutch was going to blow. I depressed the clutch and pulled off. After turning off the engine I did a normal restart. With the cruise control engaged the issue occurred again. Restarted and went home sans cruise control. No codes and no repeats for 6 months. Gremlins.
 
Sweeney said:
Fine German Engineering! Love the way the cars drive. Their motorcycles are even better. But I can tell you, working for a company based out of Germany, they love to make things over engineered and complex.
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Exactly why I ride a Kawasaki KLR 650 and not a (modern) BMW. A linear increase in technology is an exponential increase in complexity and risk.
 
I can't ride any more --- although I've lost a lot of weight and am in physicall better shape maybe I could, but I don't own a motorcycle any longer...still have all the gear but the helmet though...

I used to ride a BMW K1200LT - It was like riding a sofa, but, but it handled like a ricer. The telelever/paralever design was simply astounding. On the highway, get it to about 100mph, and you could almost feel the bike "dig in" and you could almost feel it smile. Sweepers were unbelievable fun.

On twisties, I could keep up and often pass squids. The "WTF is that!" was alwasy fun. Even if I couldn't pass, I could always keep up. All while weighting 800 lbs.

Shaft drive of course, and the bearing in the rear wheel was never addressed and failed badly routinely. But the real problem was maintenance.

The valves were the problem. They needed checking and sometimes adjustment every 10k miles. Which for me was 3 times a year. Honda has been using hydraulic lifters for at least a decade, but not BMW.

I can live with that. My Kawi KZ750GPZ, 'zuki GSX1100 and Kawasaki Conrourse all required adjustment as well. BUT the valve cover heads were easily removable, and neeed shims or a simple screw/nut adustment that could be done in a few minutes.

The beemer used a "bucket" shim...Which if out of tollerance required pulling the camshaft(s) to replace. Seriously?

I LOOOOVED that bike....but every trip to the shop was a couple hundred bucks. You just have to know that when you buy....which of course they didn't offer when I was buying
 
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