Steve and Karen
Ranger
This is a continuation of sorts of this thread: Spare Tire, Ceiling Fan
...which contains lots of information on the current heretofores and whys of installing a replacement fan to the Fantastic.
Our Fantastic was still working as it should. But wasn't so fantastic:
1) It is loud. Even on the lowest setting, it creates substantial white noise.
2) It draws a lot of amps. At the lowest, it was still drawing 1.5A. Not huge. But if on all night, it could consume 1/3 of your available battery Amp hours.
3) Even at the lowest setting, it could move enough air to ventilate a smoke-filled warehouse.
4) Our non-rain-sensing unit had to be manually closed in the middle of the night if it rained. I know, I know... our budget-conscious choice at build time.
Those who have the Maxx, both as an OEM now, and as a replacement to the Fantastic, rave about it. We got the 6200 model as it is an apples-to-apples switch-out: manual raise and lower, reversible flow, and thermostat. But it also has an extended hood that allows you keep it open in the rain. Or even be able to use the fan when closed. There is no remote, but it has 10 speeds which provide more choice on the lower end, along with ridiculously low amp draws. I also got the optional shade cover, which until recently was an unknown Maxx option at Necedah.
Sweeney has already upgraded his and provided good insight into the DIY installation. Cary also confirmed their process, which I followed. I took lots of pics so you know what you're into if you tackle this.
Removal of the Fantastic is straightforward. 16 screws on top and 5 below. The mounting flange on top needs to be mechanically pried off. Leaving it to heat up in the sun makes removal easier, but also gooier. And makes metal surfaces hot as well. Residue that you can't scrape off can be removed safely with acetone. And then given a final cleaning with isopropyl.
This is pre-cleaning, with the OEM interior flange still in place:
View attachment upload_2024-5-20_0-50-34.jpeg
You don't use the original screw holes, so they are filled with silicone, as best you can. Kinda like pushing rope. I added some butyl tape to the aluminum overlap and feathered it to make a better transition:
View attachment upload_2024-5-20_0-58-3.jpeg
Because there is fair amount of "slop" with the OEM hole (about 1/2"), I used painters tape to center the mounting flange prior to pressing down. 16 screws (use the ones supplied by Maxx, per Cary) and don't tighten down too hard lest you break plastic. 1" x 1/8" inch butyl tape on the underside will squeeze out uniformly, such that there was no need for subsequent Dicor or silicone caulking at the edge. Doing when it is warm and sunny will assist with the tape "flow".
This is how C-I does it:
View attachment upload_2024-5-20_1-2-11.jpeg
Excess butyl can either be smeared carefully with you finger to fill any voids, or cut off later when it is colder and harder. Screw heads can be given a dab of silicone, though Camp-Inn doesn't bother. If you are really worried about water infiltration through these 16 portals, but are concerned about appearances, some rubber gasket-washers under the heads would do the trick.
The main fan part is dropped onto the flange while fully open and secured with 4 screws on the sides:
View attachment upload_2024-5-20_1-4-52.jpeg
The trim "garnish" flange for the inside is cut to 2" remaining and installed with 4 supplied screws.
You're done.
Maybe.
Maxx's optional shade cover (another $100 CDN) uses the same 4 screw holes as the garnish ring, and goes over the garnish ring, but has a slightly larger footprint, and stands a little more proud of the ceiling than the just the garnish ring. But it is not terribly obtrusive:
View attachment upload_2024-5-20_1-11-17.jpeg
View attachment upload_2024-5-20_1-11-29.jpeg
Because it is ventilated/perforated, it can be operated with the shade drawn:
View attachment upload_2024-5-20_1-13-32.jpeg
View attachment upload_2024-5-20_1-13-44.jpeg
The shade is a spring-loaded roller-type: all or nothing, and it clicks into the closed position. They have a lighted, wired version of the cover, but that is unnecessary for such a small space that already has adequate lighting. And it makes for extra wiring/splicing/cutting steps when installing. Both versions have a reflective upper surface on the shade to keep heat out.
Amp draws are 0.2, 0.3 and 0.4 at the 3 lowest settings. Which is significantly less than the Fantastic's 1.5A on low. Maxx also makes several 3-speed versions, but they mimic the Fantastic in terms of amp draws and CFM, and wouldn't be a terribly rational choice as an "upgrade" to my mind. But they likely would be quieter.
The double struts holding the rain hood in the open position are also an improvement upon the Fantastic's single-strut design.
The extended hood version seemed to be the way to go as it doesn't need to be closed if it rains, negating entirely the need for one with a rain sensor. The Mothership just installed their first extended one last week. If you go with the shorter, standard, square version, Sweeney recommends the rain-sensing auto-close option.
The only other task left is to tape over the gaudy, cheesy MaxxFan stickers on the side.
...which contains lots of information on the current heretofores and whys of installing a replacement fan to the Fantastic.
Our Fantastic was still working as it should. But wasn't so fantastic:
1) It is loud. Even on the lowest setting, it creates substantial white noise.
2) It draws a lot of amps. At the lowest, it was still drawing 1.5A. Not huge. But if on all night, it could consume 1/3 of your available battery Amp hours.
3) Even at the lowest setting, it could move enough air to ventilate a smoke-filled warehouse.
4) Our non-rain-sensing unit had to be manually closed in the middle of the night if it rained. I know, I know... our budget-conscious choice at build time.
Those who have the Maxx, both as an OEM now, and as a replacement to the Fantastic, rave about it. We got the 6200 model as it is an apples-to-apples switch-out: manual raise and lower, reversible flow, and thermostat. But it also has an extended hood that allows you keep it open in the rain. Or even be able to use the fan when closed. There is no remote, but it has 10 speeds which provide more choice on the lower end, along with ridiculously low amp draws. I also got the optional shade cover, which until recently was an unknown Maxx option at Necedah.
Sweeney has already upgraded his and provided good insight into the DIY installation. Cary also confirmed their process, which I followed. I took lots of pics so you know what you're into if you tackle this.
Removal of the Fantastic is straightforward. 16 screws on top and 5 below. The mounting flange on top needs to be mechanically pried off. Leaving it to heat up in the sun makes removal easier, but also gooier. And makes metal surfaces hot as well. Residue that you can't scrape off can be removed safely with acetone. And then given a final cleaning with isopropyl.
This is pre-cleaning, with the OEM interior flange still in place:
View attachment upload_2024-5-20_0-50-34.jpeg
You don't use the original screw holes, so they are filled with silicone, as best you can. Kinda like pushing rope. I added some butyl tape to the aluminum overlap and feathered it to make a better transition:
View attachment upload_2024-5-20_0-58-3.jpeg
Because there is fair amount of "slop" with the OEM hole (about 1/2"), I used painters tape to center the mounting flange prior to pressing down. 16 screws (use the ones supplied by Maxx, per Cary) and don't tighten down too hard lest you break plastic. 1" x 1/8" inch butyl tape on the underside will squeeze out uniformly, such that there was no need for subsequent Dicor or silicone caulking at the edge. Doing when it is warm and sunny will assist with the tape "flow".
This is how C-I does it:
View attachment upload_2024-5-20_1-2-11.jpeg
Excess butyl can either be smeared carefully with you finger to fill any voids, or cut off later when it is colder and harder. Screw heads can be given a dab of silicone, though Camp-Inn doesn't bother. If you are really worried about water infiltration through these 16 portals, but are concerned about appearances, some rubber gasket-washers under the heads would do the trick.
The main fan part is dropped onto the flange while fully open and secured with 4 screws on the sides:
View attachment upload_2024-5-20_1-4-52.jpeg
The trim "garnish" flange for the inside is cut to 2" remaining and installed with 4 supplied screws.
You're done.
Maybe.
Maxx's optional shade cover (another $100 CDN) uses the same 4 screw holes as the garnish ring, and goes over the garnish ring, but has a slightly larger footprint, and stands a little more proud of the ceiling than the just the garnish ring. But it is not terribly obtrusive:
View attachment upload_2024-5-20_1-11-17.jpeg
View attachment upload_2024-5-20_1-11-29.jpeg
Because it is ventilated/perforated, it can be operated with the shade drawn:
View attachment upload_2024-5-20_1-13-32.jpeg
View attachment upload_2024-5-20_1-13-44.jpeg
The shade is a spring-loaded roller-type: all or nothing, and it clicks into the closed position. They have a lighted, wired version of the cover, but that is unnecessary for such a small space that already has adequate lighting. And it makes for extra wiring/splicing/cutting steps when installing. Both versions have a reflective upper surface on the shade to keep heat out.
Amp draws are 0.2, 0.3 and 0.4 at the 3 lowest settings. Which is significantly less than the Fantastic's 1.5A on low. Maxx also makes several 3-speed versions, but they mimic the Fantastic in terms of amp draws and CFM, and wouldn't be a terribly rational choice as an "upgrade" to my mind. But they likely would be quieter.
The double struts holding the rain hood in the open position are also an improvement upon the Fantastic's single-strut design.
The extended hood version seemed to be the way to go as it doesn't need to be closed if it rains, negating entirely the need for one with a rain sensor. The Mothership just installed their first extended one last week. If you go with the shorter, standard, square version, Sweeney recommends the rain-sensing auto-close option.
The only other task left is to tape over the gaudy, cheesy MaxxFan stickers on the side.
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