Steve and Karen
Ranger
I thought I’d draw upon some experience I acquired in what seems to be a now-distant pre-retirement gig, offer up some suggestions on emergency preparedness (sprinkled with some thoughts on prevention), and list some of the things that I carry with us on the road that you may or may not have considered. Karen originally thought I was crazy or OCD, but after some experiences, has now bought in to the whole idea.
I also like making lists. Compulsively.
The extended distances that all of us travel as trailer-haulers, the length, size and weight of our combined vehicles, and being in (usually) unfamiliar territory, mean that, potentially, we are at a greater risk of experiencing breakdowns or accidents while with the trailer, than while driving under normal circumstances. Our blocked rear-view means that in order to see to the rear we have to angle the side-views in a manner that compromises our side-view; this increases the size of our ‘blind spots’ and makes shoulder checks all that more necessary. Which can be a problem if you were not religious about doing them in the first place. Trailer travel is great, but it comes with different and increased risks.
(As an aside: too many drivers have been killed roadside or on the shoulder tending to their disabled vehicle, even though they thought they were in a safe position. As well… depending upon the situation, people inside the stopped vehicle are also at increased risk of a secondary accident. Paradoxically, passing drivers’ attention is frequently drawn toward a disabled vehicle and the visual safety cues you placed out there, and they consequently steer in that direction. YouTube will back me up on this. The safest place to be sometimes is out of the vehicle, well off the shoulder and behind guardrails if any. By towing a CI we’re already an attention magnet. We really don’t want any more attention; especially of the wrong kind.)
And depending upon the type of travel you do, you may be out of cell range or in areas where certain types of professional assistance are limited or a long ways away. Karen and I go out with the trailer, exploring, and like to be as self-sufficient as we can practically be in all environments.
I have already posted about how I managed to conveniently fit in a full-size spare for both our Outback and the 560, and the compelling mechanical reasons for doing so…. Full-size Spare Tire Carry Option For Outback Tv And Ci
So I won’t bore you again, other than to say that this strategy has already paid dividends for us. We came back to an isolated empty trailhead parking lot near dark at the end of October after a short walk and found a completely flat rear tire. We were out of cell range and the chances of anyone else showing up for the rest of the day was zero. The full-size spare got put on. I also carry a tire patch kit, which got pulled out the following morning to fix the flat back at our campsite. I’m not that automovitely-inclined (my mechanic does all my work) but a patch of a tire puncture can be done by almost anybody, and can be a very convenient low-grade skill to have in your back pocket. The trick is to get to the flat before you do damage to the sidewall. And it is also worth learning that there are certain types of tire damage that you shouldn’t attempt to repair.
Part of being prepared is not just carrying the item, but having it in a place that is accessible, and you can remember where it is without a lot of fuss or time wasted, or putting yourself in a dangerous position trying to dig it out.
I keep one of these battery-operated strobes beside me in the driver door pocket… View attachment upload_2019-11-25_10-8-44.png
It allows me exit the vehicle with it lit and operating, after I have brought the vehicle to a stop and in as safe a position as I can. No rooting around in the back of the TV or the trailer with it buried indiscriminately under 2 weeks worth of travel junk. It screams instant “problem” to others in a way that your 4-way flashers can only allude to. Since it’s a battery-operated light, test it occasionally to make sure it works when you need it.
I also carry several road flares… View attachment upload_2019-11-25_10-9-58.png
They last quite a while, and work well during the day, (better than the strobe) but they do eventually burn out… I put these far down the road and give drivers lots of warning that they are approaching something unusual. By the time they’ve burned out I hopefully have made the scene safer, fixed the problem, or gotten further off the road. As added insurance I also carry several collapsible reflective triangles… View attachment upload_2019-11-25_10-11-6.png
They don’t require batteries like a strobe, or burn out like a flare, and they take up little room. These and the flares are instantly accessible in the back hatch.
Also in the back hatch and at my fingertips are a first aid kit, medical gloves, a fire extinguisher and a reflective vest.
Many people do not consider their cargo inside the vehicle to be potential projectiles in an accident, whose destructive mass can be multiplied many times over in a sudden stop. Our back seat and hatch area are full when we travel, but they only contain lidded bins that are, closed, latched, and strapped down or seat-belted securely. No loose items to hit you in the head or get stuck under the brake or accelerator. Rubbermaid makes a Cargo Box ...
View attachment upload_2019-11-25_10-12-7.png
It takes up the entire back seat of our Outback and can be belted in, but the lid can open without removing the box…
That’s the grim stuff. Here’s some other nice-to have’s for more mundane and hopefully less-lethal problems:
1) Tow hook or clevis for hitch receiver…
Don’t use your hitch ball for anything other than towing your trailer; they do not have the shear strength for hauling your TV out of a jam, or getting someone else out of theirs. When they fail under a sprung load like a stretched tow strap... and they do fail... they become a mini cannonball that can take your head off. (Sorry… I had one lethal item left.) Many vehicles also have OEM tow hooks that you screw into the frame near the bumper. But they are lightweight. This receiver hook gives the tow operator or good Samaritan an additional point to hook onto your vehicle. At least at the rear. Your hitch assembly should be as good a tow point as the MOE screw-in eyebolt, in terms of strength. A separate clevis for your OEM eye-bolt is helpful too as it's impossible to attach a tow strap to just the eye-bolt without something inbetween.
2) Tow straps, for helping someone else
3) Emergency blanket
4) Tool kit.
View attachment upload_2019-11-25_10-19-5.png
Christmas is coming and these 150 pc kits are cheap, and admittedly cheaply made. But you’ll likely only need to use any one piece so infrequently that durability really isn’t a top priority; having a #4 Robertson on hand could be. They’re also relatively small (for what they contain) and can store anywhere.
5) Lug torque wrench.
View attachment upload_2019-11-25_10-22-21.png
Being able to change your tire isn’t much good if it comes off 50 miles down the road. Know your vehicle’s torque specs and make sure the wrench is rated for torqueing lug nuts. Re-set to zero when putting away. The smaller more packable versions, though they may go up to 200 ft/lbs, will break if used for changing a tire. Don’t ask me how I know.
6) 3- or 4-way lug wrench.
View attachment upload_2019-11-25_10-23-16.png
It will give you the necessary extra leverage you need to break the nuts that your mechanic over tightened, or haven’t been taken off in 12 months. The factory ‘elbow ‘emergency wrenches are typically too short. Make sure one of the 4 ends is good for both your vehicle and the trailer nuts that may be of a different size.
7) 12V Air compressor. Get a quality one and it will serve you for years. I even have a mini version that I carry in my motorcycle saddlebags, whether I’m touring or not.
8) Tire pressure gauge. For bringing that long neglected spare tire back up to the right pressure. Also… if you happen to get stuck in sand, mud or snow and need to deflate your tires for better traction, you need to get them back up to road pressure afterward.
9) Large heavy-duty garbage bag. For the now-useless and dirty tire that you just took off and which now has to ride on the mattress in the trailer.
10) Jumper cables. Follow the proper and safe sequence for clamping. A bad clamp connection can be next to useless in providing enough juice to the dead battery.
11) Bottle jack and extensions. More for off-roading but can be useful if your factory scissor jack doesn’t reach because of where the vehicle has come to rest. The bases that you put under the trailer leveling jacks can also come in handy here to offer you some stability on bad ground or reduce the distance you need to reach. Make sure the maximum piston length can compensate for the distance of the suspension dropping or you won't be able to remove the wheel. Again, don’t ask me how I know.
12) Folding Shovel. For getting unstuck or taking care of that fire pit full of ash or repairing a hacked up campsite.
View attachment upload_2019-11-25_10-26-23.png
13) Disposable gloves and heavy work gloves. Rags for cleanup. Industrial-strength paper shop-towels. Something to kneel or lie on so you’re not on the dirty/wet/snowy ground. See emergency blanket. I also carry 16" squares of closed-celled foam for use on wet picnic table seats. They're also great for when you have to kneel on gravel.
14) Utility lighting. Either 12V corded, flashlight or headlamp. Otherwise you won’t be able to see what you’re doing. I keep one headlamp on the center console of the car and one hanging in the trailer
15) Tire Patch Kit
I also bring a small general McGyver kit:
1) Shoe Goo. Will fix/stick to anything.
2) Zip-ties assorted
3) Duct Tape
4) Spare 12/14/16 ga wire for electrical repairs and electrical tape
5) Multimeter, for diagnosing electrical problems and monitoring the trailer battery, in the absence of a Trimetric Battery Monitor
6) Spare automotive fuses and bulbs for TV and CI. Check the type you need; it used to be there was only one; now there’s half a dozen sizes and blade styles.
7) Spare set of wheel bearings for trailer. This has been talked about before in other posts. These are possibly impossible to find in a one-horse town and could sideline you for several days waiting for them to show up, but a quick fix by a mechanic if he has the part.
8) Cordless drill/impact wrench. Mostly for lowering and raising the leveling jacks, but could have other uses too, like spinning on and off your loose lug nuts.
9) Reflective tape. For dark campsites and attaching to guy lines, pegs or other shin- or eye-level obstacles
10) Multitool
11) Firestarter
12) Spare batteries for all our devices
13) Standard GPS, traditional paper maps, and cell-phone GPS. Much of the time we are using all 3 on the road simultaneously and corroborating the information. It’s surprising how much discrepancy there can be between them and relying solely on one mode of navigation seems like a recipe for frustration.
14) Separate first aid kit for hiking
If we’re going to be on trail for more than a day, or really in the middle of nowhere where the likelihood of anyone passing by is slim, and we might need help, I bring a Delorme InReach satellite communication device Garmin inReach Explorer®+ | Satellite Communicator with TOPO Maps. I got it mostly for dealing with emergency situations during extended backcountry backpacking and canoeing trips. But it also allows rudimentary texting to anyone with a cellphone or e-mail address and doesn’t necessarily have to invoke a 911 response sent your way. It also allows you check in with loved ones if your data is used up, when there’s no cell signal or your cell plan isn’t supported where you happen to be. Or when activating it for that purpose would be too expensive. I prefer this to my previous SPOT device as you can suspend service, save money, and re-activate it when needed.
In my travels, it’s been my experience that it is usually not the prepared person who plans ahead that has the problem, but the unprepared person that you will inevitably run across and who needs your assistance. (Like learning advanced wilderness first aid, never needing for your group, but having to treat an injury to someone in another group who was foolish, didn’t plan and got in way over their head.) In some circumstances you have a moral or legal obligation to help. In others, it’s just nice to lend a hand and maybe make a new travel acquaintance on the road.
Thanks for reading this far. I’ve probably forgotten a few things. Please add to it, or describe a situation or challenge you’ve experienced out there that my list of travel goodies isn't able to address.
Steve
I also like making lists. Compulsively.
The extended distances that all of us travel as trailer-haulers, the length, size and weight of our combined vehicles, and being in (usually) unfamiliar territory, mean that, potentially, we are at a greater risk of experiencing breakdowns or accidents while with the trailer, than while driving under normal circumstances. Our blocked rear-view means that in order to see to the rear we have to angle the side-views in a manner that compromises our side-view; this increases the size of our ‘blind spots’ and makes shoulder checks all that more necessary. Which can be a problem if you were not religious about doing them in the first place. Trailer travel is great, but it comes with different and increased risks.
(As an aside: too many drivers have been killed roadside or on the shoulder tending to their disabled vehicle, even though they thought they were in a safe position. As well… depending upon the situation, people inside the stopped vehicle are also at increased risk of a secondary accident. Paradoxically, passing drivers’ attention is frequently drawn toward a disabled vehicle and the visual safety cues you placed out there, and they consequently steer in that direction. YouTube will back me up on this. The safest place to be sometimes is out of the vehicle, well off the shoulder and behind guardrails if any. By towing a CI we’re already an attention magnet. We really don’t want any more attention; especially of the wrong kind.)
And depending upon the type of travel you do, you may be out of cell range or in areas where certain types of professional assistance are limited or a long ways away. Karen and I go out with the trailer, exploring, and like to be as self-sufficient as we can practically be in all environments.
I have already posted about how I managed to conveniently fit in a full-size spare for both our Outback and the 560, and the compelling mechanical reasons for doing so…. Full-size Spare Tire Carry Option For Outback Tv And Ci
So I won’t bore you again, other than to say that this strategy has already paid dividends for us. We came back to an isolated empty trailhead parking lot near dark at the end of October after a short walk and found a completely flat rear tire. We were out of cell range and the chances of anyone else showing up for the rest of the day was zero. The full-size spare got put on. I also carry a tire patch kit, which got pulled out the following morning to fix the flat back at our campsite. I’m not that automovitely-inclined (my mechanic does all my work) but a patch of a tire puncture can be done by almost anybody, and can be a very convenient low-grade skill to have in your back pocket. The trick is to get to the flat before you do damage to the sidewall. And it is also worth learning that there are certain types of tire damage that you shouldn’t attempt to repair.
Part of being prepared is not just carrying the item, but having it in a place that is accessible, and you can remember where it is without a lot of fuss or time wasted, or putting yourself in a dangerous position trying to dig it out.
I keep one of these battery-operated strobes beside me in the driver door pocket… View attachment upload_2019-11-25_10-8-44.png
It allows me exit the vehicle with it lit and operating, after I have brought the vehicle to a stop and in as safe a position as I can. No rooting around in the back of the TV or the trailer with it buried indiscriminately under 2 weeks worth of travel junk. It screams instant “problem” to others in a way that your 4-way flashers can only allude to. Since it’s a battery-operated light, test it occasionally to make sure it works when you need it.
I also carry several road flares… View attachment upload_2019-11-25_10-9-58.png
They last quite a while, and work well during the day, (better than the strobe) but they do eventually burn out… I put these far down the road and give drivers lots of warning that they are approaching something unusual. By the time they’ve burned out I hopefully have made the scene safer, fixed the problem, or gotten further off the road. As added insurance I also carry several collapsible reflective triangles… View attachment upload_2019-11-25_10-11-6.png
They don’t require batteries like a strobe, or burn out like a flare, and they take up little room. These and the flares are instantly accessible in the back hatch.
Also in the back hatch and at my fingertips are a first aid kit, medical gloves, a fire extinguisher and a reflective vest.
Many people do not consider their cargo inside the vehicle to be potential projectiles in an accident, whose destructive mass can be multiplied many times over in a sudden stop. Our back seat and hatch area are full when we travel, but they only contain lidded bins that are, closed, latched, and strapped down or seat-belted securely. No loose items to hit you in the head or get stuck under the brake or accelerator. Rubbermaid makes a Cargo Box ...
View attachment upload_2019-11-25_10-12-7.png
It takes up the entire back seat of our Outback and can be belted in, but the lid can open without removing the box…
That’s the grim stuff. Here’s some other nice-to have’s for more mundane and hopefully less-lethal problems:
1) Tow hook or clevis for hitch receiver…
Don’t use your hitch ball for anything other than towing your trailer; they do not have the shear strength for hauling your TV out of a jam, or getting someone else out of theirs. When they fail under a sprung load like a stretched tow strap... and they do fail... they become a mini cannonball that can take your head off. (Sorry… I had one lethal item left.) Many vehicles also have OEM tow hooks that you screw into the frame near the bumper. But they are lightweight. This receiver hook gives the tow operator or good Samaritan an additional point to hook onto your vehicle. At least at the rear. Your hitch assembly should be as good a tow point as the MOE screw-in eyebolt, in terms of strength. A separate clevis for your OEM eye-bolt is helpful too as it's impossible to attach a tow strap to just the eye-bolt without something inbetween.
2) Tow straps, for helping someone else
3) Emergency blanket
4) Tool kit.
View attachment upload_2019-11-25_10-19-5.png
Christmas is coming and these 150 pc kits are cheap, and admittedly cheaply made. But you’ll likely only need to use any one piece so infrequently that durability really isn’t a top priority; having a #4 Robertson on hand could be. They’re also relatively small (for what they contain) and can store anywhere.
5) Lug torque wrench.
View attachment upload_2019-11-25_10-22-21.png
Being able to change your tire isn’t much good if it comes off 50 miles down the road. Know your vehicle’s torque specs and make sure the wrench is rated for torqueing lug nuts. Re-set to zero when putting away. The smaller more packable versions, though they may go up to 200 ft/lbs, will break if used for changing a tire. Don’t ask me how I know.
6) 3- or 4-way lug wrench.
View attachment upload_2019-11-25_10-23-16.png
It will give you the necessary extra leverage you need to break the nuts that your mechanic over tightened, or haven’t been taken off in 12 months. The factory ‘elbow ‘emergency wrenches are typically too short. Make sure one of the 4 ends is good for both your vehicle and the trailer nuts that may be of a different size.
7) 12V Air compressor. Get a quality one and it will serve you for years. I even have a mini version that I carry in my motorcycle saddlebags, whether I’m touring or not.
8) Tire pressure gauge. For bringing that long neglected spare tire back up to the right pressure. Also… if you happen to get stuck in sand, mud or snow and need to deflate your tires for better traction, you need to get them back up to road pressure afterward.
9) Large heavy-duty garbage bag. For the now-useless and dirty tire that you just took off and which now has to ride on the mattress in the trailer.
10) Jumper cables. Follow the proper and safe sequence for clamping. A bad clamp connection can be next to useless in providing enough juice to the dead battery.
11) Bottle jack and extensions. More for off-roading but can be useful if your factory scissor jack doesn’t reach because of where the vehicle has come to rest. The bases that you put under the trailer leveling jacks can also come in handy here to offer you some stability on bad ground or reduce the distance you need to reach. Make sure the maximum piston length can compensate for the distance of the suspension dropping or you won't be able to remove the wheel. Again, don’t ask me how I know.
12) Folding Shovel. For getting unstuck or taking care of that fire pit full of ash or repairing a hacked up campsite.
View attachment upload_2019-11-25_10-26-23.png
13) Disposable gloves and heavy work gloves. Rags for cleanup. Industrial-strength paper shop-towels. Something to kneel or lie on so you’re not on the dirty/wet/snowy ground. See emergency blanket. I also carry 16" squares of closed-celled foam for use on wet picnic table seats. They're also great for when you have to kneel on gravel.
14) Utility lighting. Either 12V corded, flashlight or headlamp. Otherwise you won’t be able to see what you’re doing. I keep one headlamp on the center console of the car and one hanging in the trailer
15) Tire Patch Kit
I also bring a small general McGyver kit:
1) Shoe Goo. Will fix/stick to anything.
2) Zip-ties assorted
3) Duct Tape
4) Spare 12/14/16 ga wire for electrical repairs and electrical tape
5) Multimeter, for diagnosing electrical problems and monitoring the trailer battery, in the absence of a Trimetric Battery Monitor
6) Spare automotive fuses and bulbs for TV and CI. Check the type you need; it used to be there was only one; now there’s half a dozen sizes and blade styles.
7) Spare set of wheel bearings for trailer. This has been talked about before in other posts. These are possibly impossible to find in a one-horse town and could sideline you for several days waiting for them to show up, but a quick fix by a mechanic if he has the part.
8) Cordless drill/impact wrench. Mostly for lowering and raising the leveling jacks, but could have other uses too, like spinning on and off your loose lug nuts.
9) Reflective tape. For dark campsites and attaching to guy lines, pegs or other shin- or eye-level obstacles
10) Multitool
11) Firestarter
12) Spare batteries for all our devices
13) Standard GPS, traditional paper maps, and cell-phone GPS. Much of the time we are using all 3 on the road simultaneously and corroborating the information. It’s surprising how much discrepancy there can be between them and relying solely on one mode of navigation seems like a recipe for frustration.
14) Separate first aid kit for hiking
If we’re going to be on trail for more than a day, or really in the middle of nowhere where the likelihood of anyone passing by is slim, and we might need help, I bring a Delorme InReach satellite communication device Garmin inReach Explorer®+ | Satellite Communicator with TOPO Maps. I got it mostly for dealing with emergency situations during extended backcountry backpacking and canoeing trips. But it also allows rudimentary texting to anyone with a cellphone or e-mail address and doesn’t necessarily have to invoke a 911 response sent your way. It also allows you check in with loved ones if your data is used up, when there’s no cell signal or your cell plan isn’t supported where you happen to be. Or when activating it for that purpose would be too expensive. I prefer this to my previous SPOT device as you can suspend service, save money, and re-activate it when needed.
In my travels, it’s been my experience that it is usually not the prepared person who plans ahead that has the problem, but the unprepared person that you will inevitably run across and who needs your assistance. (Like learning advanced wilderness first aid, never needing for your group, but having to treat an injury to someone in another group who was foolish, didn’t plan and got in way over their head.) In some circumstances you have a moral or legal obligation to help. In others, it’s just nice to lend a hand and maybe make a new travel acquaintance on the road.
Thanks for reading this far. I’ve probably forgotten a few things. Please add to it, or describe a situation or challenge you’ve experienced out there that my list of travel goodies isn't able to address.
Steve
