Considering Adding Solar

[rmbrowder]

Coming from an ice cooler, I think I need some help from you experienced Dometic users.

I was thinking it would replace the Coleman cooler and be stored in the camper and powered by the camper.

I gather many of you transport and often just keep it in the tow vehicle. And you have figured a way to power it.

Does the cooler need to be powered 24/7? Can it be in the galley for transport? How does the need for ventilation limit it’s storage or use?

Are there times when the cooler is off but keeping things cold due to its insulation? How long can you go with the Dometic off and have to power back on?

I can’t find the comment where it was suggested that the Dometic be used as a freezer for ice packs and the ice packs are then rotated into a cooler (thanks to whom ever suggested this). I’ve been using the Dometic in this manner for a week now. Each day I change the ice pack ( four pounder) in the Yeti 35 cooler. I've kept the Dometic in the CI and the cooler in the TV. I’ve had one over heat in the Dometic but let it sit unplugged for 2 hours and it returned to normal operation.

 

[SethB]

I can’t find the comment where it was suggested that the Dometic be used as a freezer for ice packs and the ice packs are then rotated into a cooler (thanks to whom ever suggested this). I’ve been using the Dometic in this manner for a week now. Each day I change the ice pack ( four pounder) in the Yeti 35 cooler. I've kept the Dometic in the CI and the cooler in the TV. I’ve had one over heat in the Dometic but let it sit unplugged for 2 hours and it returned to normal operation.

I posted this somewhere on the forum; I think I was tipped off by my sister & brother-in-law who are sprinter campers. At some point they discovered Trader Joe’s frozen indian cuisine meals, and wanted to run a freezer, and one thing led to another.

They didn’t stop there though… they have *so* much lithium storage in their sprinter they eventually bought a second fridge, maybe ARB, they keep one as a freezer and one as a fridge.

I always thought it would be a good idea for ice cream sandwiches, though some value ice in their cocktails. Our typical trips are out and backs of 2 to 7 nights, we don’t get a) a lot of solar or b) enough road miles to keep a 12v fridge running. Ice works fine for us; we’ve only had to supplement with ice on the road twice in the last few years.

Glad this method is working for you rmbrowder!

 

[Andrew Cushingham]

As far as I have gathered, there is a lot of innovation happening with both solar and batteries. Camp-inn has been equipping their campers with a CTEK charge controller since 2016 that intelligently charges the battery, in my case an AGM, via tow vehicle, shore power or solar. This charge controller can accept Solar panels up to 110 watts or so with an upper limit of 23 volts of input.

So I may have got myself in a situation where I need to upgrade my charge controller... I purchased and installed the SolarHawk 110W flexible panel that adorns the top of my roof top tent like a mohawk.

Here are the specs:

I was thinking that the Voltage @ Pmax was the voltage limit I needed to check for the 23V input voltage of CTEK, however after calling the seller, they directed me to look at the Open Circuit Voltage (Voc) of 28.16V.

If that is the case, then this panel may overwhelm my Ctek and I would need a new charge controller.

Victron the way to go?

 

[Andrew Cushingham]

So I may have got myself in a situation where I need to upgrade my charge controller... I purchased and installed the SolarHawk 110W flexible panel that adorns the top of my roof top tent like a mohawk.

Here are the specs:

I was thinking that the Voltage @ Pmax was the voltage limit I needed to check for the 23V input voltage of CTEK, however after calling the seller, they directed me to look at the Open Circuit Voltage (Voc) of 28.16V.

If that is the case, then this panel may overwhelm my Ctek and I would need a new charge controller.

Victron the way to go?

OK after a quick consult with Cary, he did not recommend replacing the ctek but gave me two good options:

1. Cover 20% of the panel. We did a little math on the voltage per solar cell of this panel and determined that if I cover up 8 of the 44 cells then that would reduce the max input voltage to be within range of the onboard Ctek
2. Add a Victron MPPT to my wiring harness between the solar panel and the camper, while making sure to utilize the bypass prong on the Tri-prong solar plug to bypass the ctek.

Drawback to option 1 is that while covering 20% of the cells does keep me below the max input voltage, it also reduces my solar harvest potential. It is possible that I am rarely in conditions that would max the input wattage and so could use all the cells and still be under the limits.

I’ll report back when I’ve made further progress.

Cary feel free to chime in if I missed any key details.