Steve and Karen
Ranger
My second post, but it thought it worthwhile to share. Included are my apologies if all the post components don't end up where they should be, or its a little wordy. I believe that this is an entirely new post topic.
When we picked up the trailer last month, I asked Cary about a third higher center-mounted brake light. I don't recall his specific response (which included the words either 'can't' 'shouldn't' 'won't' 'doesn't work' 'not required by law', or any or all of the above) or his specific reasoning for CI not making it a part of their regular build or an option, but I didn't let it deter me. I had some concerns about the OEM brake lights sitting so low, and doing triple duty as a tail light and turn signal. A third dedicated brake light that was mounted closer to eye level was important to me for additional safety. Particularly if the tow vehicle's brake lights are not visible to anyone following. And they aren't.
A perusal of the many Q&A's at etrailer.com yielded one answer that seemed to make sense. Because our LED tail lights on the 560 draw so little power (compared to incandescent) not all brake controllers/converters can handle the differing (or lower) voltages and can't actuate properly when required. This is what etrailer recommended: Curt Vehicle to Vehicle Tail Light Converter Item # C56196, which I got. They cautioned against using the #118158 converter, mentioned in most of their Q&As because of the LEDs.
The other component was a single function 2-wire LED brake light, as I didn't want any tail light or turn signal capability, or multiple wires to foul up the operation. There are many third brake lights which are designed for a flush vertical mount, but few that are designed for a flat roof-top mount with LEDs that point backward. Spoilerlights.com 16" x 2.06" Roof Mount Third Brake Light seemed to fit the bill. It was chrome with red LEDs and a clear lens, as opposed to white LEDs with a red lens, which was more aesthetically pleasing for the 560's overall appearance. However, it wasn't the cheapest light out there.
I followed instructions (diagram included, but different converter # used... same wiring) and it worked. I don't want to tell you the tail light wire colours I tied into just in case yours are different. Suffice to say you must dig around to locate and differentiate the brake-turn wire at each tail light, as opposed to the tail light wire. The third wire is a ground, which you don't touch. Use a clamp connection; there isn't sufficient slack in the wires to allow cutting and splicing. Removal of the wooden panels that conceal the battery and the water pump are necessary to reveal the tail-light wires. (I originally tried to remove the pop-out LED tail lights with the rubber grommets, from the outside, so I could access the wires, but I was afraid I would break them, so I accessed the wires from inside the galley bins.) The now-connected brake wires run to the input side of the converter which I mounted between the battery charge unit and the rim of the right galley bin. You only use the red output wire of the converter for the brake light; the other two outputs (tail and turn) are capped. However, the converter must be grounded (white wire). I grounded it along with the third brake light at the 110V cabin outlet, as it was in the vicinity of my cable run, and a pretty good bet that the ground connection would be solid. When the TV brake was depressed, I was getting 11+ volts on my voltmeter, using the red wire from the converter and a ground, and zero voltage any other time. I figured I was good to go.
Wire routing took some head-scratching, but this was the cleanest route: It runs behind the battery and into the footwell of the cabin, then up into galley cabinets/shelf. The pictures are better than words. I used Wiremold C10 Low Voltage conduit to conceal and organize the wires; it also has a self-adhesive mounting. (No word yet on how permanent). The wire pairs with the present galley/ hatch wiring at the hinge, and then runs behind the wood support, second from the hinge.
The brake light wire required a single hole completely through the hatch aluminum and panelling. The two mounting screws for the light are 1 1/4" long and go through the aluminum into the wood support. The mounting screw holes and the wire outlet on this particular light are off-set just enough to allow this clean mount. The light is also adhesive backed for waterproofness. I siliconed all my perforations in the hatch aluminum.
The LEDs are directional, meaning that looking at them head on, they're the brightest. The angle of the hatch means that they pointing slightly downward. However you get some reflection off the aluminum to make up for the diminished brightness. Mounting the light on a flatter surface for a brighter light (i.e the cabin roof) was a non-starter, for obvious reasons.
I hope I haven't confused anyone. A word of caution if you're unsure about tackling this surgery in your CI work of art: work incrementally and test each component before mounting or drilling holes. The third brake light should only come on with the brake light, and not the tail lights or turn signals. A plethora of alligator clips is useful. As is a length of pipe held in place by the driver's seat to depress the brake pedal, if you're working alone. And... LEDs are directional, meaning that if they're not lighting up for you, reverse the wire polarity.
When we picked up the trailer last month, I asked Cary about a third higher center-mounted brake light. I don't recall his specific response (which included the words either 'can't' 'shouldn't' 'won't' 'doesn't work' 'not required by law', or any or all of the above) or his specific reasoning for CI not making it a part of their regular build or an option, but I didn't let it deter me. I had some concerns about the OEM brake lights sitting so low, and doing triple duty as a tail light and turn signal. A third dedicated brake light that was mounted closer to eye level was important to me for additional safety. Particularly if the tow vehicle's brake lights are not visible to anyone following. And they aren't.
A perusal of the many Q&A's at etrailer.com yielded one answer that seemed to make sense. Because our LED tail lights on the 560 draw so little power (compared to incandescent) not all brake controllers/converters can handle the differing (or lower) voltages and can't actuate properly when required. This is what etrailer recommended: Curt Vehicle to Vehicle Tail Light Converter Item # C56196, which I got. They cautioned against using the #118158 converter, mentioned in most of their Q&As because of the LEDs.
The other component was a single function 2-wire LED brake light, as I didn't want any tail light or turn signal capability, or multiple wires to foul up the operation. There are many third brake lights which are designed for a flush vertical mount, but few that are designed for a flat roof-top mount with LEDs that point backward. Spoilerlights.com 16" x 2.06" Roof Mount Third Brake Light seemed to fit the bill. It was chrome with red LEDs and a clear lens, as opposed to white LEDs with a red lens, which was more aesthetically pleasing for the 560's overall appearance. However, it wasn't the cheapest light out there.
I followed instructions (diagram included, but different converter # used... same wiring) and it worked. I don't want to tell you the tail light wire colours I tied into just in case yours are different. Suffice to say you must dig around to locate and differentiate the brake-turn wire at each tail light, as opposed to the tail light wire. The third wire is a ground, which you don't touch. Use a clamp connection; there isn't sufficient slack in the wires to allow cutting and splicing. Removal of the wooden panels that conceal the battery and the water pump are necessary to reveal the tail-light wires. (I originally tried to remove the pop-out LED tail lights with the rubber grommets, from the outside, so I could access the wires, but I was afraid I would break them, so I accessed the wires from inside the galley bins.) The now-connected brake wires run to the input side of the converter which I mounted between the battery charge unit and the rim of the right galley bin. You only use the red output wire of the converter for the brake light; the other two outputs (tail and turn) are capped. However, the converter must be grounded (white wire). I grounded it along with the third brake light at the 110V cabin outlet, as it was in the vicinity of my cable run, and a pretty good bet that the ground connection would be solid. When the TV brake was depressed, I was getting 11+ volts on my voltmeter, using the red wire from the converter and a ground, and zero voltage any other time. I figured I was good to go.
Wire routing took some head-scratching, but this was the cleanest route: It runs behind the battery and into the footwell of the cabin, then up into galley cabinets/shelf. The pictures are better than words. I used Wiremold C10 Low Voltage conduit to conceal and organize the wires; it also has a self-adhesive mounting. (No word yet on how permanent). The wire pairs with the present galley/ hatch wiring at the hinge, and then runs behind the wood support, second from the hinge.
The brake light wire required a single hole completely through the hatch aluminum and panelling. The two mounting screws for the light are 1 1/4" long and go through the aluminum into the wood support. The mounting screw holes and the wire outlet on this particular light are off-set just enough to allow this clean mount. The light is also adhesive backed for waterproofness. I siliconed all my perforations in the hatch aluminum.
The LEDs are directional, meaning that looking at them head on, they're the brightest. The angle of the hatch means that they pointing slightly downward. However you get some reflection off the aluminum to make up for the diminished brightness. Mounting the light on a flatter surface for a brighter light (i.e the cabin roof) was a non-starter, for obvious reasons.
I hope I haven't confused anyone. A word of caution if you're unsure about tackling this surgery in your CI work of art: work incrementally and test each component before mounting or drilling holes. The third brake light should only come on with the brake light, and not the tail lights or turn signals. A plethora of alligator clips is useful. As is a length of pipe held in place by the driver's seat to depress the brake pedal, if you're working alone. And... LEDs are directional, meaning that if they're not lighting up for you, reverse the wire polarity.
