Removal rock nicks in aluminum?

Is their a proceedure for removal of rock and gravel nicks in the aluminum and stainless? My guess is to use 600 (or ?) grit wet sand paper to remove the roughness and then use either of the referenced polishing products with a buffer.
What is the experience of those who have tried to remove the gravel inflicted pits and resulting tiny uplifted shards? The "protective bra" did not cover all the corners and the stainless wheel fenders are slightly pitted.
Many thanks for reader input.
Wendell

 

Additional information:
From my understanding if the aluminum is anodized it is a very hard finish implanted that is hard to remove. Any repair method would likely require removal -- a difficult project. Any repair experience or cosmetic remedy is appreciated.
Thanks

 

Cary would be the best person to contact for ideas.

Good luck.

Jean

 

Good suggestion to get help from Camp-Inn.
I have sent an e-mail to Camp-Inn's address camp-inn@tds.net asking for any remedy the staff would suggest. I did indicate what I offered as a solution in my initial posting.

I'll report what I find out. Please offer any solutions that you have found workable.
Thanks,
Wendell

 

I received a prompt thoughtful response to my inquiry above from Mr. Craig Edevold, Camp-Inn Trailers.
He encouraged the installation of mud flaps that are installed on the hitch -- such as Rock Tamers to hopefully reduce continuation of the gravel damage problem. He made clear that smoothing the finish is understandably only a short term solution.

As to the process of changing the visual effect of the gravel impact, Craig offered the following:

"If it is so rough that it is making if difficult to wash, you can block sand the fenders with about 180-220 grit. This will knock off the high spots and restore it to a brushed finish look.
I don't recommend trying to remove the pits since more will be added on the next trip.

" The Alcan cover (bra) was created to protect the front of the trailer from this type of abuse. We looked at other ways to protect the front and nothing else really worked. A stainless rock guard would have the same issue as the fenders.

"So if you already have the pits and want to get rid of them and use mud flaps in the future, the only way to remove them is to block sand them out.

"On my personal trailer (2002-550 Ultra #0002 with over 75,000 miles on it)I ran it bare for years for years. Then, when going to Alaska, knowing it would get a lot of abuse, Iinstalled a padded front similar to the Alcan cover. The Alcan cover we have now was designed adfter the Alaska trip. After this new Alcan cover was designed I added one to my trailer. I still block sand the fenders about once a year to remove the high spots, but don't try to remove the pits.

"We have had people polish their trailer to remove pits and corrosion, but once you go that way you will be spending a lot of time polishing every year to retain the polished finish.

"I hope this helps."
Craig Edevold

Many thanks for your insightful response.
Wendell

 

They are pretty great about answering questions and helping as much as they can. A really stand up company in my books. One reason I was so happy to buy from them!

 

Craig responded Friday, March 1, 2013

Please, consider this entire posting an appeal for those who have successfully matched the original finish repairing gravel nicks to report their successes.
Again, thanks Craig.
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Hi Wendell,
"Due to the nature of aluminum, it is tricky to get a matching look.

"We haven't found any way to match the original "mill finish" look of the aluminum. If you sand it, it will look different. If you polish it, it will look different. The best you can do is do a specific area so that it looks different but intentional. The main goal is to match the direction and general grain look.

"As the aluminum "ages" it develops a patina. Sanding removes the patina and no matter how well you try to match the surrounding area, it will stand out like a sore thumb. After it is sanded, the patina starts to form again. Over time, this patina will even out the look of the trailer. If you must sand an area, it will start out looking different. After about a year, it will start to look more like the rest of the trailer. After 2-3 years, it will be hard to tell where you sanded.

"I have been trying to figure out a way to speed the patina, so you could make it match in a few days or even a few weeks, but so far, no success.

"If you are going to experiment, do it in a an area that is less visible (like under the rear of the trailer)."

Craig

 

The "nick" removal saga continues. I have wet sanded the stainless fenders with a series of 220 - 600 grit papers and a sanding block. While evidence of the small pits do remain, the "burrs" are gone. However, by buffing with either Mothers or Blue Magic polish, the glossy stainless steel shine has returned.

As to the trailer body, I have used the following in no specific sequence on obscure body parts:
-- Mothers polish
-- Meguires H7 final finish liquid rouge
-- Nu-Finish liquid car wax
-- Blue Magic
I have not purchased nor tried the "Woody Wax". The cost is not enticing. My car restoration hobby past is an accumulation of many products and hours of metal restoration -- yet, no large aluminum bodies!

All buffing is done with Schelgel #5 "Round-up" buffing pads and electric buffer -- run at a slow speed not to heat up the aluminum.

RESULTS:

The best comparative outcome so far -- as measured by the least streaking or remaining color patterns -- is the use of Blue Magic. The best results are from a final very light use of a clean buffer pad or rubbing with a towel. The ensuing tone variations were minimal.

The streaking or tone variations are likely from the continual release of the aluminum. The soft towel following the pad works well. Still, I am curious if anyone has attained a final finish totally free of slight coloration patterns.

The aluminum body will produce the dark coloration on either pad or rubbing cloth no matter the amount of effort in rubbing. So a light final application of Blue Magic and rubbing horizontally "appears" to result in a more even finish. Who knows, all of this may disappear shortly to natural oxidation.

Any further exploration will be reported.
Whew!
Many thanks to Craig, Cary and staff at Camp-Inn along with your reader input.
Wendell

 

For those wishing to remove slight "burrs" on the stainless fenders from gravel, I encourage you to use 400 or 600 grit wet/dry paper even at the start. This to be sure you don't create tough to remove scratch marks. Sand wet with a little soap in the water. Follow the curve of the fender so you are keeping the "grain" of the stainless. Craig and Cary are right: Try a lower curve portion of the fender to experiment. Probably, this area has the highest amount of grit hitting it. After the grits of paper- using a sanding block - I then used the Blue Magic or Mothers metal polish and a buffer pad. Using a cloth and the polish instead of the buffer worked as well -- at least for the exercise.
Wendell