New Drawer Handle And Dish Cloth Hanger

Another piece of "Marine Gear":

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0B18944TL?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

Any more and the trailer will sprout a mast and sail.

In another post, "Jenn" acquired one of these: https://www.amazon.ca/Cabinet-Stainless-Kitchen-Bathroom-Cupboard/dp/B0BTDLCQ3T/ref=sr_1_6?crid=Y68X0OR6D9ZD&keywords=over+door+towel+hanger+stainless&qid=1699395843&s=hi&sprefix=over+door+towel+hanger+stainless,tools,163&sr=1-6&th=1 and hung it on the cutlery drawer. I liked the idea. (Draping a wet dish cloth over the faucet or leaving clumped in a ball in the corner irked me.)

However, in all my spec'ing, I couldn't see how she pulled this off as these hangers are designed for cupboard doors, up to a max of 0.80" thick. Using it on the CI drawer front, which is 15/16" thick would require surgery on the backside for it to fit over, and possibly some on the top to allow the drawer to close properly.

I also was pretty sure I'd be impulsively grabbing it like a handle (which it isn't) and wrecking it if I didn't screw in the front. Even then, I'm not sure how robust these racks are.

Standard drawer pulls aren't proud enough from the drawer face to do double duty as a drying bar for wet things; the drawer face finish would eventually discolour from moisture. Actual stainless towel drying bars stand proud enough but are too flimsily attached to act as a drawer pull.

I also considered a stainless toilet roll holder (don't laugh... some are pretty nice and don't look at all like toilet roll holders) but couldn't get past the ick factor myself.

Hence the marine grab bar. When mounted as designed it's 1 1/4" proud of the face which should be enough clearance for wet dish cloths. The bolts are long enough that you could add a 1/2" deep X 1 3/16" dia stand-off (wood or stainless) to give you more space up front and still have enough exposed threads inside the drawer to grab with a nut and washer, without countersinking.

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I might try both. There's no penalty. Other than the two holes on the drawer front. Centered on the drawer front, the dish cloth will still be entirely over the sink.

CI possibly had a compelling reason for not including an actual hardware handle with their build. Possibly not. I don't think this runs counter to their decision. Installed pics to follow. But you probably can already envision what it will look like.

 

I'd look for a handle that uses screws that come in from the back side. Having the threads extend into the drawer ... I'm sure I'd catch my finger on it in the dark.

 

It comes with slip-on silicone rubber caps for what thread is still extended, if anything, for that very purpose. Also easy enough to use a cut-off tool for the 1/2" of excess thread and put on an acorn nut. Zero blood. No fatalities.

I think my unsheathed kitchen knives in the drawer present a greater current danger. Am looking at making an integrated knife block for them, as some on the forum have done with success.

 

I'm a clutz -- I'd still hurt myself. My knives are always stored in sheaths in the camper; they get knocked around something fierce on the road and I can't tolerate a dull knife, they are more dangerous that sharp ones.

Where you at CICO? Jenn had a prototype in her camper that never made it to production, in the underside of the galley hatch cover...I really liked it as a solution. One of these days I wouldn't mind making something like this for mine.

 

I used those self stick sliders, that go on the feet of chairs, to close the gap on the towel bar. I don't use it any more. There is a bungie system on the underside of the hatch that I use for towels if it's needed.


That knife block prototype is wonderful but in the end was too heavy for the lid. Craig can have it back if he wants it but I would miss it.

 

Pre-COVID we were. Have to admit I didn't do a lot of poking around other's campers and works-in-progress over that weekend as it was our first time, just getting bearings. Trying to make up for it now with some archival sleuthing here on the forum, without re-treading well-trodden ground.

After consulting with my stainless fabricator, I will be sanding some 1 1/4" hardwood dowel down to 1 3/16" and slice off some 1/2" to 5/8" discs to use as stand-offs. This will extend the handle another 1/2" away from the drawer front, and possibly blend in better. Any metal standoffs, such as stainless tube, or built-up washer stacks each had their visual or functional drawbacks. 1 3/16" isn't a common dimension in anything.

 

Agreed - I watched some youtube videos and made some leather sheaths. Everything back there gets banged around a lot.

 

Nice work! Love the look and feel of leather craft. Its a fit with the eclectic Maker ethic and quality of the CI, IMHO.
Do you recall best youtube? I have a hand me down hunting knive from my grampa, and a BSA shealth knife that need good leather...fix a belt or two...and like to try some mocs...a useful hobby on the road you can carry tools in the CI.

 

Heh. Me too...and don't you hate it when you set something down and it walks off?

I keep a couple of Mora Bushcrafts in orange in the drawer so I have a better chance of spotting one tryna sneak away from where I set it down by the fire, etc. One is none, two is one...

Good for paring veg, cutting meat, whittling a hiking stick, cutting tent extra guyline pegs.
Like sunglasses the higher the price the more likely Imma lose them...

 

Grab Handle/Dish Cloth Hanger installed.

There wasn't enough thread left over to create a stand-off on the drawer front, without countersinking the inside. Countersinking would be impossible without a small 90 degree drill. Even then, probably not worth the effort.

View attachment upload_2023-11-10_18-40-4.jpeg

So I left it. There's probably still enough thread to send Sweeney to the ER however.

The handle is deep enough to hang small cloths without contacting cabinetry:

View attachment upload_2023-11-10_18-43-13.jpeg

And elegant enough that it looks OEM:

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Though you may have to explain to any persons unfamiliar with a CI what the (now redundant) mouse hole is doing in the top of the drawer.

Use a 21/64" bit for the holes. You still have to rubber mallet it in as the threaded posts probably aren't exactly parallel. Mine weren't.

(BTW: our dishcloths are never that clean.)

 

Along the same lines...

A while back Oysterpot suggested using the hatch locking rods as a tea towel dryer. Many recoiled at the "Used Car Lot" motif, but I didn't. Even though some suggested chip bag closures (because regular clothes pins are much too thick and don't work) I wasn't having any success. Until I got these:

Lifetime Clothespins - Lee Valley Tools

The narrow snout fits over the rod easily. They can be left in place all the time, and used for transient campground stays where you don't put down roots, or put up a clothesline:

View attachment upload_2023-11-10_19-42-17.jpeg

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Because they are formed to grab a clothes line, they don't pop off unexpectedly, with your wet laundry in the dirt.

You may not be able to find these in the U.S. short of getting them through Lee Valley, in Ottawa. Pretty sure that the avid woodworkers on the forum are as familiar with Lee Valley as they are with Rockler.

 

I was able to buy in the US website!
Thanks, good tip!

 

NP.

I forgot they had a U.S. presence/site/shipping center you could go to. Also in GB it seems.

Quality stuff, but rarely inexpensive. YMMV however, with your current favourable CDN/USD currency exchg.

 

Hi Kevin - this guy at Weaver has a ton of videos and he is a great instructor - step by step.

 

Thank you!