1. We’re Back – Thanks for Your Patience! We’re thrilled to welcome you back! After some time offline, our site is up and running again, though you may experience occasional instability as we work through the final steps of restoring full functionality. For now, please avoid uploading unnecessary image files and be patient with us as we work to get everything back to normal. Your understanding and support mean the world to us – thank you for sticking with us through this!
    Dismiss Notice
  2. Email notifications are being sent but may be blocked by spam filters. If you don’t receive an expected email, please check your spam folder.

Leveling the trailer

Discussion in 'Tips & Tricks' started by Evan, Apr 24, 2010.

  1. Evan

    Evan Administrator Donating Member

    I can't stand sleeping on an unlevel bed, so I attached two little bubble levels to the trailer to help get things right.

    The trick is finding an out of the way place to mount them, and then making sure the trailer is perfectly level before doing so. I used a 4' level across the countertop, cranked the leveling jacks until it was perfectly level, and then attached the rear bubble.
    [​IMG]

    The only placi I could find to mount the front level was inside the front storage compartment.
    [​IMG]
     
  2. Evan

    Evan Administrator Donating Member

    In one of Ron's photos, I noticed his level mounted to the outside of his storage bin. I like his level and location much better than mine.

    [​IMG]
     
  3. mcjimjam

    mcjimjam Junior Ranger Donating Member

    Just curious, Evan- What is that vertical "shaft" mounted to the front of the camper used for? Thanks for posting all the pictures of Ron's additions and modifications!
     
  4. Kent Kanipe

    Kent Kanipe Novice

    Evan, always nice to have pictures of special projects. In the gallery I posted a picture of my rear level some time back. It is on my plate frame...eye level when using the crank. A side door makes a great level going the other way. Open it 90 degrees and adjust the front jack until the door stays put. If you like the door to have a bias to swing either direction make the adjustment as you like.

    Kent
     
  5. Jean W

    Jean W Junior Ranger Donating Member

    My guess the vertical shaft are handles to grab while moving the TD around. T@B has handles for the same reason.

    One lesson learned while camping in a 5th wheel: NEVER, EVER, extend the front jacks to the fullest length. Had a terrible time rehooking up because couldn't get the hitch ball high enough to connect with the 5th wheel plate. Learned to place the orange leveling blocks an appropriate height, then extend the leveling arms when on slanted surfaces.

    Same should be true for the front jack, NEVER, EVER, fully extent the jack because will have difficulty rehitching.

    Jean
     
  6. Hilditch

    Hilditch Novice

    These cost $1 @ at Walmart 3 years ago, now a $1.50 @. I thought #2 would get creamed, but it never has and I never have to move to look.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Hilditch
     
  7. Evan

    Evan Administrator Donating Member

    Jean - you are correct. The vertical shaft is for moving the trailer around. Ron has one of these on each side in the front, and also a long horizontal one at waist level in the rear (just below the galley cabinets - sorry, don't have a picture) I would consider adding the front rails, because I end up pushing on the corner of the front storage cabinet, but I wouldn't do the rear horizontal rail because this means you are another 3 or 4 inches farther from the stove.

    Hilditch - I was afraid mine would get crunched too, that's why I put it in the storage compartment. I should have been brave like you... :)
     
Loading...

Share This Page