Jeep Cherokee

[Sweeney]

I am not a jeep expert. I do know the since Daimler and Fiat have pretty much sucked anything good from the brand, at least compared to the older ones...

I'm looking for a "dedicated" vacation vehicle -- something I can pull with almost exclusively. I've owned a Cherokee on the past, and really liked it. But I am curious just how "Bullet proof" that straight 6 is, and how reliable the rest of the vehicle is. Simple is good....The modern cars are so over-engeineered and lightweight...

I'd like to buy a f150 or larger newever --- but the prices are just insane. These cherokees are not terribly expensive and fall into the "petty cash" category, not "I didn't want to buy the dealership" price range.

 

[Tour 931]

I like Jeeps but have never owned one. I like the looks of that two door.

 

[dirty6]

The early 2000 Jeeps were pre fiat, I believe. I have a Wrangler from 01 (an TJ) and my dad has a Grand Cherokee from that timeframe, both with the straight six. The engines are well regarded for reliability. It’s a cast iron block. The challenge these days is finding one that is not a) ridden hard and low on life; b) not over-modified by off-roader hobbyists who didn’t really understand what they were doing; c) plagued with body rust or frame rust issues; d) any combination of the above.

 

[Sweeney]

The 01 and previous were Diamler. Dimler did a great job of pushing their factories far beyond the time they needed rehab -- they sucked the life out of Chrysler in general then sold it to fiat. Fiat ... well, "Fix it again tony" is not just a joke. The german companies aren't much better...but I think, and this is where I am trying to ensure my feelings....that enough "old school" was still in existence in '01 that if you can find one that hasn't been beaten, lowish miles, and no rust....you may have a jewel.

I have found a couple of them that _appear_ to be decent. Photos underneath show no rust. Rust is a big concern! I want this to be a vacation/towing vehicle that I'll have for a long time that I restore to as reasonable....not necessarily a show car --- but a car that some one says "wow, that's 30 years old?" -- like the ol '57 chevy that sat in my neighbors garage when I was learning to drive....it still looks that good...30 years after that.

On the couple that I have seen the bodies don't appear to have been beaten by offroaders, and had less than 150,000 miles on them --- the price was low relative to "newer" used cars -- I don't mind dropping an above market price >IF< I can find something good.

What I'm not sure of is where to look for those telltale conditions. For example, on the F150 the corner behind the rear door where the cab meets the bed is the fist place you'll have a problem almost every time. Or, the 100,000 mile spark plugs that were never replaced and will likely be stuck, or stripped if you try to remove them....or, the timing chain tensioner that lasts 150,000 miles and then puts little pieces of metal in your oil (don't ask how I know)

I defateinly don't want anything that has been beat/modded to death. In fact, if I see ANY mods I will typically walk away completely. Lift kits and all of that ruin on-road driving. Just looking for a 'barn find' and there are a few out there, just need to be first to see it.

 

[M&L]

I have a 2004 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon with the straight-6. It is one of the most reliable engines ever made, and is legendary in Jeep circles. It is not uncommon to find them with over 500,000 miles if they were well taken care of. Even amongst those engines that have been abused, they have a reputation of being indestructable. They do tend to run a little on the warm side, so flush your fluids periodically and keep things topped off. If anything goes wrong, they are very easy engines to work on and repair. But they are the poster child for durability, maintainability, reliability, and simplicity. I have 207,000+ miles on mine and have worked her HARD both on- and off-road...no problems whatseover, and I expect to have her for a LONG time.

The Cherokees are great vehicles. I'd recommend something from 1998-2001...those were the really good years, and had maximized the safety improvements and structural reinforcements by that point in the production.

 

[Sweeney]

I have a 2004 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon with the straight-6. It is one of the most reliable engines ever made, and is legendary in Jeep circles. It is not uncommon to find them with over 500,000 miles if they were well taken care of. Even amongst those engines that have been abused, they have a reputation of being indestructable. They do tend to run a little on the warm side, so flush your fluids periodically and keep things topped off. If anything goes wrong, they are very easy engines to work on and repair. But they are the poster child for durability, maintainability, reliability, and simplicity. I have 207,000+ miles on mine and have worked her HARD both on- and off-road...no problems whatseover, and I expect to have her for a LONG time.

The Cherokees are great vehicles. I'd recommend something from 1998-2001...those were the really good years, and had maximized the safety improvements and structural reinforcements by that point in the production.

That's exactly the years I'm am looking at -- just before they made the body style change that I do not like.

I briefly owned a 94 --- not long enough to know their idiosyncracies. But it sounds like I"m on the right path. I assume the wheel base and weight all make towing a teardrop an "I forget its there" event...

Driving one of these after driving a modern vehicle with the bells and whistles of power windows, blind spot detection, lane assist, adaptive cruise control ... is surely going to be a trip

But it sounds like I'm on the right path for what I want... longevity, ease of repair, and just an all around cool old car...

 

[campdude]

That's exactly the years I'm am looking at -- just before they made the body style change that I do not like.

But it sounds like I'm on the right path for what I want... longevity, ease of repair, and just an all around cool old car...

Sweeny, the in line straight 6 is a bullet proof motor. The older Cherokees (square body) are about the best you can get but the ride ...well...like a Jeep. They are a straight axle. I almost bought a Town and Country from these guys at Davis Auto Sport but someone snuck in an bought it out from under me. These guy's know their Cherokee XJ's. They have one currently for $20k
Jeep Cherokee XJ Sport - Limited - Classic For Sale — Davis AutoSports

 

[campdude]

Or there is this one in the $13,000 range Used 1999 Jeep Cherokee Classic For Sale $13,995 | Cars.com

 

[Sweeney]

Or there is this one in the $13,000 range Used Jeep Cherokee Classic For Sale $13,995 | Cars.com

I've driven a Cherokee before --- and yeh --- not something I'd consider a luxury vehicle It will certainly be very strange driving compared to my Rav4 with its adaptive cruise control, lane detection, car play, climate control, and heated seats...

My job pays a good portion as an annual bonus --- I feel like Clark Griswold this time of year. I'll have the final payout in 8 days...and THEN I'm going to pull the trigger on something. The green jeep looks pretty much like exactly what I am looking for.

that white one...hmmm...I'm tempted...bad....

email sent

 

[Long Truong]

I've driven a Cherokee before --- and yeh --- not something I'd consider a luxury vehicle It will certainly be very strange driving compared to my Rav4 with its adaptive cruise control, lane detection, car play, climate control, and heated seats...

My job pays a good portion as an annual bonus --- I feel like Clark Griswold this time of year. I'll have the final payout in 8 days...and THEN I'm going to pull the trigger on something. The green jeep looks pretty much like exactly what I am looking for.

that white one...hmmm...I'm tempted...bad....

email sent

LOL I just bought an Outback as a tow car and adaptive cruise control was my top priority

 

[Sweeney]

LOL I just bought an Outback as a tow car and adaptive cruise control was my top priority

Not my top, but its right up there for my daily driver! It paid for itself the first time I was in a rolling traffic jam.

Reliablity and repairability are my top concern...which is why that straight 6 has its appeal...

What would have been funny is if you sold/traded a Cherokee

 

[Long Truong]

Not my top, but its right up there for my daily driver! It paid for itself the first time I was in a rolling traffic jam.

Reliablity and repairability are my top concern...which is why that straight 6 has its appeal...

What would have been funny is if you sold/traded a Cherokee

LOL living in Chicago basically every time we go camping it's a 2-6+ hr highway drive to a park, so I justified the ACC because omg it makes highway driving 35% more pleasant.

 

[Sweeney]

LOL living in Chicago basically every time we go camping it's a 2-6+ hr highway drive to a park, so I justified the ACC because omg it makes highway driving 35% more pleasant.

Our traffic here isn't anywhere near as bad. But I get it --- rush hour sucks; ours just last an hour instead of 6...twice a day

The tolls have to hurt too --- how does that work with the transponder system? Only thing I know is don't try to cross the skyway with a campinn attached --- it still cost me like $20 :O

I don't envy you --- Indy it about as big as I could tolerate, and eve that is too much....I can avoid 90% of it if I am willing to stay off the interstates and for the most part going east, north, or south I can....the good news is my favorite park is no impeded by traffic, even on a Friday night

 

[Long Truong]

Our traffic here isn't anywhere near as bad. But I get it --- rush hour sucks; ours just last an hour instead of 6...twice a day

The tolls have to hurt too --- how does that work with the transponder system? Only thing I know is don't try to cross the skyway with a campinn attached --- it still cost me like $20 :O

I don't envy you --- Indy it about as big as I could tolerate, and eve that is too much....I can avoid 90% of it if I am willing to stay off the interstates and for the most part going east, north, or south I can....the good news is my favorite park is no impeded by traffic, even on a Friday night

While ACC is useful in traffic, I actually find it most useful on two lane highways with normal traffic. Just set it to like 65/70 and hang out in the right lane and never have to put your foot on the gas pedal no matter how slow the truck in front of you is going. Car going 55? Pass it and then you're back in business, no foot on gas necessary. Makes driving a lot more relaxing.

 

[Sweeney]

Sweeny, the in line straight 6 is a bullet proof motor. The older Cherokees (square body) are about the best you can get but the ride ...well...like a Jeep. They are a straight axle. I almost bought a Town and Country from these guys at Davis Auto Sport but someone snuck in an bought it out from under me. These guy's know their Cherokee XJ's. They have one currently for $20k
Jeep Cherokee XJ Sport - Limited - Classic For Sale — Davis AutoSports

These guys don't have great reviews on BBB ... whats their reputation like in the real world?

The one in this listing was sold --- but they have one that is pre-listing now that I'm very interested in...but little nervous now

 

[GlampingOn]

I sure like these older Jeep Cherokees and noodling on these as next tow vehicle. Much as I lust for a new Ford Big Bronco with actual 4x4 low (not the chopped baby bronco/Edge awd cuv unibody) I cant justify cost and still too many new model problems being itoned out.

What are the weaknesses- famous death wobble on TJs, JKs apply to the Cherokee?
Rubber and plastic anything goes brittle at 20 years...
Any parts gone NLA?
Frame rust or other things to look for?
Lots of aftermarket parts and suspension and trans/gearing mods out there- bulletproof old school fits my needs..

It looks like these are approaching old Bronco collectibility status next- check out BAT for a museum queen.

 

[Sweeney]

I think every one of your questions is valid...frankly, even on new cars. Between supply problems and just poor manufacturing quality (plastic intake manifolds and thermostat housings - REALLY?)

Death wobble is addressable with some minor modification of the steering assembly --- Perhaps as simple as a steering dampener, which I have had experience with --- they do make a massive difference in the handling of "difficult" vehicles.

Rubber and plastic are always a concern, especially on wiring harnesses. Just ask any Benz owners Cosmetically, all the rubber parts can usually be source or corrected. One of the benefits of knowing people in the restoration and reconditioning business I'm not buying a show car, I just want something to pull my trailer.

Cherokee is -- on the bubble -- its not the best towing platform. But the engine is legendary, and for a 2000lb payload I'm sure it will do just fine...I'm not pulling a large trailer with weight and wind resistance....

Parts --- good question. There is so much available in the aftermarket; I'm curious if this is really a problem? We may be getting near the tipping on OEM at 20 years, but I still see a LOT of cherokees on the road and a large aftermarket industry.

Rust...always an issue, on every vehicle, and there are a few samples of cherokees that are lower in milage from places other than the rust belt. I have seen 3 that, frankly, almost looks like they were just a year or two old if they were from around my parts.

Dunno...I'm pretty sure though that one of these iconic, "peak of reliability" cars is far better than anything new you can buy today....even from Toyota, or Honda --- both companies known for their legendary reliability. Franky, I'm not sure even Toyota and Honda are up their standards anymore.

 

[Sweeney]

I have 2 jeeps I'm looking at now --- both are rust-free. One has low miles, the other his relatively low but appears in better overall condition.

Regardless, based on the straight 6 reliability and the relative simplicity of the mechanical systems, either should be good for many years on a vehicle that is still user-serviceable.

Whatever I buy will become a camping vehicle, and not much more. Considering I won't pull in salt rust shouldn't be an issue that will arise. This will also let me keep my core camping gear in the back ready to roll at a moment's notice.

 

[Sweeney]

Thanks Sweeney, and Mike from M&L, Bear/Mahkwa, Jerry, rmbrowder, SethB, and too many others to mention here with Jeep and other 4x4 towing experience...

Yep, me too:
Also never going bigger than CI.
Partly thanks to your insights in doing so in RV world.

(If I did I'd look at a truck camper of the folding top type- say on an older Ram and FWC topper, but SethB has given me good advice on that, too).

So the towed trailer behind reliable 4x4 (or capable enough AWD) is my end stage too.

I have a bucket list trip ("PanAmerica" thats sliding a bit for family needs- and its all good)
but tryna decide if my VW Golfmk7 wagon tow car platform is reaaalllyy gonna be sustainable/parts available/mechanic help in South America and rural North America or should I be looking for an older but more reliable and basic and more widespread platform. In the meantime I have miles to go before I sleep and the CI pulled by VW version of Outback take me to the woods that are lovely dark and deep, just fine...for at least another 50k...getting a carbon cleaning next week as last prep for another xcountry FL real estae scouting trip with a couple of side trips...anyone pulked a CI into the high country at Big Bend TX?
South Padre Island? GodEmperorMElon promises mud April launch...
Any space geeks/sci-fi nerds like me here going to the launch party?

So Jeeps, Toyota, and...4x4 trucks. Yeah, baby! Its fun to noodle on it in advance...

I'm getting a bit past the stage to invest in a shop, re-tooling, etc to do much more than shade tree mechanic work.

And thats an investment in time and money to learn new, to do an engine change...

So it has to be bulletproof reliable and work-on-able at beginner DIY mech capability.

Dont need dont want cruise control or electronic anything...roll up windows are good enuff. Dont care if its slow...but long range is good. Gas not diesel, just because dont need the grunt. A six cylinder gasser with low enough gears to get unstuck in the dirt in baja/appalachia/AK tundra and works fine at 60mph all day long, is plenty.
KISS on the tech to spend more time in Nature is the point for me...

So yeah- the beauty of the CI is its a near go anywhere but kewl retro glamping camper that stores in garage in between, ready to go-
as family bounce-to-the/beach or nearby woods state park, hunting/fishing camp in mountains for the long weekend...

Or for the Zombie Apocalypse bug out...
(Dont forget to ask Cary about the rooftop gatling gun option)

Or the bug-in vehicle- the grandkids can camp in garage...as a spare room, playpen, even grampas reading nook...

So, I Really appreciate the wide range of talent and experience and shared advice here on this forum...
in case I havent said thanks lately, to the CampInn family.
Appreciate You!

I'm not interested in retooling as a shade tree mechanic either --- I really don't want to do anything more than basic maintenance. I'm just not flexible enough to worm between those sharp edges, and my vision isn't good enough to work on small parts.

I'll do oil, brakes, and maybe the random water pump or thermostat. But much more than that --- I'm just not interested.

I just do not want a car that I need a $10,000 scan tool to change the brake pads...

Crank-up windows are surprisingly hard to find. Cruise control and AC are my only 2 hard requirements. I don't like hot, and Its too easy to creep up to 70 or higher on long trips.

Rooftop gatling gun --- I got that covered with one behind the grill

 

[rmbrowder]

I'm not interested in retooling as a shade tree mechanic either --- I really don't want to do anything more than basic maintenance. I'm just not flexible enough to worm between those sharp edges, and my vision isn't good enough to work on small parts.

I'll do oil, brakes, and maybe the random water pump or thermostat. But much more than that --- I'm just not interested.

I just do not want a car that I need a $10,000 scan tool to change the brake pads...

Crank-up windows are surprisingly hard to find. Cruise control and AC are my only 2 hard requirements. I don't like hot, and Its too easy to creep up to 70 or higher on long trips.

Rooftop gatling gun --- I got that covered with one behind the grill

1947 Willys in rework by my brother. I actually learned how to drive a straight drive on this. Picture 2 is when it as actually (kind of) running, 50 years ago. Some projects are just too engulfing.