Emergency Preparedness Gear List

I thought I’d draw upon some experience I acquired in what seems to be a now-distant pre-retirement gig, offer up some suggestions on emergency preparedness (sprinkled with some thoughts on prevention), and list some of the things that I carry with us on the road that you may or may not have considered. Karen originally thought I was crazy or OCD, but after some experiences, has now bought in to the whole idea.

I also like making lists. Compulsively.

The extended distances that all of us travel as trailer-haulers, the length, size and weight of our combined vehicles, and being in (usually) unfamiliar territory, mean that, potentially, we are at a greater risk of experiencing breakdowns or accidents while with the trailer, than while driving under normal circumstances. Our blocked rear-view means that in order to see to the rear we have to angle the side-views in a manner that compromises our side-view; this increases the size of our ‘blind spots’ and makes shoulder checks all that more necessary. Which can be a problem if you were not religious about doing them in the first place. Trailer travel is great, but it comes with different and increased risks.

(As an aside: too many drivers have been killed roadside or on the shoulder tending to their disabled vehicle, even though they thought they were in a safe position. As well… depending upon the situation, people inside the stopped vehicle are also at increased risk of a secondary accident. Paradoxically, passing drivers’ attention is frequently drawn toward a disabled vehicle and the visual safety cues you placed out there, and they consequently steer in that direction. YouTube will back me up on this. The safest place to be sometimes is out of the vehicle, well off the shoulder and behind guardrails if any. By towing a CI we’re already an attention magnet. We really don’t want any more attention; especially of the wrong kind.)

And depending upon the type of travel you do, you may be out of cell range or in areas where certain types of professional assistance are limited or a long ways away. Karen and I go out with the trailer, exploring, and like to be as self-sufficient as we can practically be in all environments.

I have already posted about how I managed to conveniently fit in a full-size spare for both our Outback and the 560, and the compelling mechanical reasons for doing so…. Full-size Spare Tire Carry Option For Outback Tv And Ci

So I won’t bore you again, other than to say that this strategy has already paid dividends for us. We came back to an isolated empty trailhead parking lot near dark at the end of October after a short walk and found a completely flat rear tire. We were out of cell range and the chances of anyone else showing up for the rest of the day was zero. The full-size spare got put on. I also carry a tire patch kit, which got pulled out the following morning to fix the flat back at our campsite. I’m not that automovitely-inclined (my mechanic does all my work) but a patch of a tire puncture can be done by almost anybody, and can be a very convenient low-grade skill to have in your back pocket. The trick is to get to the flat before you do damage to the sidewall. And it is also worth learning that there are certain types of tire damage that you shouldn’t attempt to repair.

Part of being prepared is not just carrying the item, but having it in a place that is accessible, and you can remember where it is without a lot of fuss or time wasted, or putting yourself in a dangerous position trying to dig it out.

I keep one of these battery-operated strobes beside me in the driver door pocket… View attachment upload_2019-11-25_10-8-44.png


It allows me exit the vehicle with it lit and operating, after I have brought the vehicle to a stop and in as safe a position as I can. No rooting around in the back of the TV or the trailer with it buried indiscriminately under 2 weeks worth of travel junk. It screams instant “problem” to others in a way that your 4-way flashers can only allude to. Since it’s a battery-operated light, test it occasionally to make sure it works when you need it.

I also carry several road flares… View attachment upload_2019-11-25_10-9-58.png
They last quite a while, and work well during the day, (better than the strobe) but they do eventually burn out… I put these far down the road and give drivers lots of warning that they are approaching something unusual. By the time they’ve burned out I hopefully have made the scene safer, fixed the problem, or gotten further off the road. As added insurance I also carry several collapsible reflective triangles… View attachment upload_2019-11-25_10-11-6.png
They don’t require batteries like a strobe, or burn out like a flare, and they take up little room. These and the flares are instantly accessible in the back hatch.

Also in the back hatch and at my fingertips are a first aid kit, medical gloves, a fire extinguisher and a reflective vest.

Many people do not consider their cargo inside the vehicle to be potential projectiles in an accident, whose destructive mass can be multiplied many times over in a sudden stop. Our back seat and hatch area are full when we travel, but they only contain lidded bins that are, closed, latched, and strapped down or seat-belted securely. No loose items to hit you in the head or get stuck under the brake or accelerator. Rubbermaid makes a Cargo Box ...
View attachment upload_2019-11-25_10-12-7.png
It takes up the entire back seat of our Outback and can be belted in, but the lid can open without removing the box…

That’s the grim stuff. Here’s some other nice-to have’s for more mundane and hopefully less-lethal problems:


1) Tow hook or clevis for hitch receiver…

Don’t use your hitch ball for anything other than towing your trailer; they do not have the shear strength for hauling your TV out of a jam, or getting someone else out of theirs. When they fail under a sprung load like a stretched tow strap... and they do fail... they become a mini cannonball that can take your head off. (Sorry… I had one lethal item left.) Many vehicles also have OEM tow hooks that you screw into the frame near the bumper. But they are lightweight. This receiver hook gives the tow operator or good Samaritan an additional point to hook onto your vehicle. At least at the rear. Your hitch assembly should be as good a tow point as the MOE screw-in eyebolt, in terms of strength. A separate clevis for your OEM eye-bolt is helpful too as it's impossible to attach a tow strap to just the eye-bolt without something inbetween.

2) Tow straps, for helping someone else

3) Emergency blanket

4) Tool kit.
View attachment upload_2019-11-25_10-19-5.png

Christmas is coming and these 150 pc kits are cheap, and admittedly cheaply made. But you’ll likely only need to use any one piece so infrequently that durability really isn’t a top priority; having a #4 Robertson on hand could be. They’re also relatively small (for what they contain) and can store anywhere.

5) Lug torque wrench.
View attachment upload_2019-11-25_10-22-21.png
Being able to change your tire isn’t much good if it comes off 50 miles down the road. Know your vehicle’s torque specs and make sure the wrench is rated for torqueing lug nuts. Re-set to zero when putting away. The smaller more packable versions, though they may go up to 200 ft/lbs, will break if used for changing a tire. Don’t ask me how I know.

6) 3- or 4-way lug wrench.
View attachment upload_2019-11-25_10-23-16.png
It will give you the necessary extra leverage you need to break the nuts that your mechanic over tightened, or haven’t been taken off in 12 months. The factory ‘elbow ‘emergency wrenches are typically too short. Make sure one of the 4 ends is good for both your vehicle and the trailer nuts that may be of a different size.

7) 12V Air compressor. Get a quality one and it will serve you for years. I even have a mini version that I carry in my motorcycle saddlebags, whether I’m touring or not.

8) Tire pressure gauge. For bringing that long neglected spare tire back up to the right pressure. Also… if you happen to get stuck in sand, mud or snow and need to deflate your tires for better traction, you need to get them back up to road pressure afterward.

9) Large heavy-duty garbage bag. For the now-useless and dirty tire that you just took off and which now has to ride on the mattress in the trailer.

10) Jumper cables. Follow the proper and safe sequence for clamping. A bad clamp connection can be next to useless in providing enough juice to the dead battery.

11) Bottle jack and extensions. More for off-roading but can be useful if your factory scissor jack doesn’t reach because of where the vehicle has come to rest. The bases that you put under the trailer leveling jacks can also come in handy here to offer you some stability on bad ground or reduce the distance you need to reach. Make sure the maximum piston length can compensate for the distance of the suspension dropping or you won't be able to remove the wheel. Again, don’t ask me how I know.

12) Folding Shovel. For getting unstuck or taking care of that fire pit full of ash or repairing a hacked up campsite.
View attachment upload_2019-11-25_10-26-23.png
13) Disposable gloves and heavy work gloves. Rags for cleanup. Industrial-strength paper shop-towels. Something to kneel or lie on so you’re not on the dirty/wet/snowy ground. See emergency blanket. I also carry 16" squares of closed-celled foam for use on wet picnic table seats. They're also great for when you have to kneel on gravel.

14) Utility lighting. Either 12V corded, flashlight or headlamp. Otherwise you won’t be able to see what you’re doing. I keep one headlamp on the center console of the car and one hanging in the trailer

15) Tire Patch Kit

I also bring a small general McGyver kit:

1) Shoe Goo. Will fix/stick to anything.
2) Zip-ties assorted
3) Duct Tape
4) Spare 12/14/16 ga wire for electrical repairs and electrical tape
5) Multimeter, for diagnosing electrical problems and monitoring the trailer battery, in the absence of a Trimetric Battery Monitor
6) Spare automotive fuses and bulbs for TV and CI. Check the type you need; it used to be there was only one; now there’s half a dozen sizes and blade styles.
7) Spare set of wheel bearings for trailer. This has been talked about before in other posts. These are possibly impossible to find in a one-horse town and could sideline you for several days waiting for them to show up, but a quick fix by a mechanic if he has the part.
8) Cordless drill/impact wrench. Mostly for lowering and raising the leveling jacks, but could have other uses too, like spinning on and off your loose lug nuts.
9) Reflective tape. For dark campsites and attaching to guy lines, pegs or other shin- or eye-level obstacles
10) Multitool
11) Firestarter
12) Spare batteries for all our devices
13) Standard GPS, traditional paper maps, and cell-phone GPS. Much of the time we are using all 3 on the road simultaneously and corroborating the information. It’s surprising how much discrepancy there can be between them and relying solely on one mode of navigation seems like a recipe for frustration.
14) Separate first aid kit for hiking

If we’re going to be on trail for more than a day, or really in the middle of nowhere where the likelihood of anyone passing by is slim, and we might need help, I bring a Delorme InReach satellite communication device Garmin inReach Explorer®+ | Satellite Communicator with TOPO Maps. I got it mostly for dealing with emergency situations during extended backcountry backpacking and canoeing trips. But it also allows rudimentary texting to anyone with a cellphone or e-mail address and doesn’t necessarily have to invoke a 911 response sent your way. It also allows you check in with loved ones if your data is used up, when there’s no cell signal or your cell plan isn’t supported where you happen to be. Or when activating it for that purpose would be too expensive. I prefer this to my previous SPOT device as you can suspend service, save money, and re-activate it when needed.

In my travels, it’s been my experience that it is usually not the prepared person who plans ahead that has the problem, but the unprepared person that you will inevitably run across and who needs your assistance. (Like learning advanced wilderness first aid, never needing for your group, but having to treat an injury to someone in another group who was foolish, didn’t plan and got in way over their head.) In some circumstances you have a moral or legal obligation to help. In others, it’s just nice to lend a hand and maybe make a new travel acquaintance on the road.

Thanks for reading this far. I’ve probably forgotten a few things. Please add to it, or describe a situation or challenge you’ve experienced out there that my list of travel goodies isn't able to address.


Steve

 

Another item for when you're out there and it really hits the fan...a GPS enabled personal locator beacon. I now carry one on all my trips. Recently paddled 130 miles of the Green River in Utah. Some wild weather but thankfully didn't need it.


ResQLink™ Personal Locator Beacon (PLB) | ACR ARTEX

 

Thanks Gypsy: A PLB is certainly an option, and they do have their upsides over a satellite messenger in some wilderness settings. The two device groups also access different satellites, which may or may not benefit you when adventuring in different parts of the world. I personally prefer the ability to text or e-mail from a device since I take out large groups and like to assure those at home, en masse, that we are doing well.



Activating a PLB is really an all or nothing decision; i.e. "someone's dying and you need to send in the troops" or "we'll keep it to ourselves and we won't worry anyone with our difficulties". A lot of emergency situations will fall somewhere in between and require qualifying 2-way communications so that you are not unduly taxing the first responder system with unnecessary rescues, or receiving inadequate help. This was essentially how SPOT (mal)functioned in the beginning. REI explains really well the differences between a SPOT/Inreach and a PLB... https://www.rei.com/learn/expert-advice/personal-locator-beacons.html and how far they've come since they were introduced.



Forgot to add, and speaking of wild weather: my Delorme, even with a basic plan, gives quite adequate local weather forecasts, which are difficult to obtain otherwise unless you have a data subscription for a device and have service, or are able to hit the local wifi hotspot. Which may or may exist in your neck of the woods. Forecasts are nice to know as it lets you know if its worth sticking around, or pulling up stakes and turning the day into a travel day. You can also pre-pack the night before if the morning is going to be a weather washout. Kinda like this year's CICO. I hate wet tarps and tents.



Jenn: I forgot to add the tarp and tie-downs. In a pinch it can also carry a light load on the TV roof, or line the empty TV hatch for hauling firewood. You're more adventurous than me, though, with the winter travel kit for the trailer. Just garaged it today for the season.


Another thing I carry in the driver's door pocket, that I forgot to mention, and for getting people's attention and/or directing traffic is this small orange cone...
View attachment upload_2019-12-4_1-3-43.png

Cheap and doesn't take up a lot of space; it attaches easily to most smaller tactical flashlights. The strobe button on many of these is also very effective for getting drivers' attention under adverse conditions.

 

Having a little prepper in me I enjoyed this list and have most of the things on it.

Here is a link to a complete emergency wheel bearing replacement kit that I put together and thank goodness never had to use. I keep it in the underfloor storage.
Emergency Wheel Bearing Kit

Echoing what Jenn said about a battery jumper, I carry a portable jumper similar to this one that I have used several times myself and many more times than that to help others.
https://www.amazon.com/DBPOWER-1800...Y5TX217&qid=1575470008&tag=lifewirepublish-20

A life straw or similar water filter and dehydrated food is also a good addition to an emergency kit.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074WJDZYK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here is a set of magnetic emergency flasher lights that I carry as an alternative to road flares:
https://www.amazon.com/Emergency-Ve...YQ06VKGCQWT&psc=1&refRID=TFKA74E1QYQ06VKGCQWT

A full rain suit with jacket and pants is also a good idea. Here is a good quality one at a moderate price that I like from Duluth Trading:
Men's Bang For Your Buck Rain Jacket
Men's Bang For Your Buck Rain Pants

Randy

 

Randy, thanks. Again, something I bring but forgot to add to the list.

I have a Lifestraw LifeStraw; it was one of the first really portable water filters offered, and the very first one I got that wasn't a handled pump filter. But I found it too cumbersome to use as you pretty much have to lie on your stomach and suck from a water source. Not always possible or practical; its laborious and frankly physically tiring, particularly when you may not have a lot of strength left. I'll still bring it along when the chances of needing it are very low, but when I still have to be prepared for an unexpected overnight on a trail or elsewhere; it takes up no room and weighs nothing.

The Sawyer mini... MINI Water Filtration System | Sawyer Products | Sawyer Products however, has been my go-to for daily backcountry filtering and my back-up for filtering questionable frontcountry sources, while travelling with the trailer. You can't always be camping in a place with running water, or even be sure about what comes out of their taps in an established campground as being "potable". Though not strictly designed for it, I have however converted the Sawyer to a "gravity system" whereby you attach an (always) "dirty" bag and and (always) "clean" water bag to either end, with flexible clear hose, hang it and it does all the work for you. No pumping or sucking. As a 0.1 micron filter it will handle almost all North American water pests.

It works so well I have bought their even finer 0.02 micron system... Water Purifier Bucket Adapter System | Sawyer Products | Sawyer Products for international third world travel, to handle the even smaller and deadlier viruses that aren't prevalent in North American water sources, but exist elsewhere, including some third world city water systems. Although it is marketed as a "bucket kit' I have easily converted it to a gravity bag system as well. I also use it/have it as a domestic emergency/disaster backup system, since we are on a drilled well at home and rely upon electricity to both pump out our drinking water, and to purify it with a UV light. I'm certainly not an Apocalypse-End-of-the-World guy, but with wildfires, floods, hurricanes (and just this week, power outages from the ice storm) becoming all that more common throughout the continent, and increasingly destructive, having something like this to rely on is comforting.

Steve

 

Randy: I also see the flare kit you listed contains a seatbelt cutter and a window punch. Stuff I carry as well. They're a little more "First Responder-ish" than many of the other items on our collective list. Since those are grab-and-go things, I try to keep them immediately accessible, within arms reach, and not buried in the back somewhere. Knowing how to use them is as important as having them, as well.

I also didn't realise that auxiliary battery jumpers had gotten so small and affordable. Really no reason not to carry one. It may end up under the tree this year. I do know, through previous forum posts, that some members who operate their Dometics off their TV battery overnight have had a need for a boost, when they unexpectedly have run their battery down or forgot to plug back in to their deep cycle. Good addition.

 

As a follow-up to car battery jumpers, here's a far more in depth look at how to handle a dead battery...

What Happens When You Jumpstart Your Car The Wrong Way: A Guide for Novice Drivers

I've even printed out the sequence page for my own reference on the road as there were some safety steps in there of which I wasn't previously aware. And it's not always easy to remember the exact sequence of connecting and disconnecting when under a moderate bit of stress.

The DB battery jumper that Randy listed above is actually one of the higher rated ones out there, in my brief research. And it, or one similar, eliminates many of the potential pitfalls brought up in the drivinglife.net article above.

I'm sure that many on the forum will support the contention that using the trailer's deep cycle battery to jump-start your dead TV cranking battery is really just asking for trouble. A deep cycle and a cranking battery are two different animals and designed for two distinct purposes, despite looking the same and being of the same size. I'm sure that someone somewhere has used their trailer battery to do a boost and its worked. But internal battery damage, if it occurs, is rarely apparent. FWIW.

I already have my solar panel and its separate charge controller hard-wired to the trailer battery. It might be a practical spring project to turn that setup into something that can slowly recharge a dead TV battery with little fuss.

Steve

 

Prior to our last trip I did a review of my gear list, and performed a test-fit of the Subaru's front tow hook, that screws into the bumper. I was dismayed to find that that the hole and threads which are behind the cover are still quite open and exposed to road grime and salt. It took a lot to clean out and lube so that the hook could be fully seated. Initially, it was a tough leveraged spin, only a couple threads in. This, after only 3 years of driving. The rear hook location is far more protected and had no such seating issues.

I have since bought a spare tow hook and have permanently installed it in the front so there will be no futzing about if and when the time comes. Tow operators can be adept at accessing various parts of a vehicle, to winch, without causing damage to low flexible body panels and bumpers. But don't count on it.

There's lots of flashy expensive aftermarket "poser" tow hooks available. However, they just beg for "unauthorized removal", and their strength may not be up the task. So I went for the dull OEM.

Here's a link in case you are unfamiliar with what it looks like or have never had to dig it out...

However, if you are doing your own retrieval, or someone is helping you other than a tow operator, I would caution against using any metal in the set-up (like in the video) as this can lead to lethal projectiles in the event of a strap failure. I carry soft shackles like these... New Type Soft Shackles | High Quality Winch Accessories | Winch it which are much safer. I have since also invested in a Smittybilt kinetic/dynamic tow strap, which stretches and is much easier (than a static tow strap) on the Subaru's very modestly engineered tow hook points. Every part of the set-up should be carefully rated for your vehicle's weight. All of which could quite possibly be the subject of a separate thread.

A more aggressive retrieval from the rear could be performed using both the OEM hook, and an appropriate D-shackle on the trailer hitch (not the ball). If they are equalized, and pull relatively straight back from the bumper.

BTW, those tie-down hooks underneath... Subaru Outback - Towing and tie-down hooks/holes - Towing... are only for once it's on the bed, and are not a retrieval/winch point.

FYI to all you Suby owners, and other TV makes that use the same equipment set-up.