3m Tape Usage

I've done a few modifications and additions to the trailer using 3M tape. I thought I'd impart some of what I have learned about it. I like the idea of tape because like many others, I'm averse to poking holes in the trailer, or the skin. And for the most part the installations are reversible. Which is good because you can't always be sure that you will continue to like your mod, or that your components don't in time fail, or need replacing, sometimes with a completely different sized component. If you sell your trailer, it's nice to be able to point out the reversibility of any modifications.

My first experiment was a solar panel system (flex panel and removable frame-stand) that I attached to the top of the trailer using 3M VHB (Very High Bond) #4952. This is a special tape designed to adhere to "slippery" plastics like the HDPE I was using. This required the use of a 3M primer on the HDPE to allow the tape to stick to it. I just did a magnetic knife holder in the galley.

Among my findings:

1) There are dozens of different types of 3M tape, each with its own characteristics and applications. It is best to do your research as it is likely 3M has a tape that is designed for your specific substrates and purpose. Some of these tapes are meant to keep windows on high rises in winter. So there are few situations where it won't work. Pay attention to the product numbers. And if not listed, source the spec sheets elsewhere for all you need to to know abouts its uses and application. These can vary widely. Metal on metal is the stickiest of situations. In a good way.
2) The tape has an "elastoviscosity" which means that over time the tape will ooze into all the pores of the substrate to enhance the adhesion. It takes some time for a full "set".
3) This adhesion can sometimes be accelerated and further enhanced with the use of modest heat, like a heat gun on low, or a hair dryer. Each tape has their own ideal application conditions, and maximum temp to speed up the process. (this is useful if you are doing mods in November, like I am now).
4) You may have to really look to get the right tape in the right dimensions and the right quantities, at an affordable price, especially if you're doing a small job. Getting some "worst case scenario" tape like a 1" wide roll of the 4952 may be a reasonable solution.
5) Removal or replacement can sometimes be as simple as mechanically getting under it with something thin that doesn't mar the surfaces. 3M also makes a tape dissolver if you need to go that far. You could also test with standard solvents like acetone. I haven't gone that far yet.
6) The tape does have a shelf life. However, the roll I got from 2019 is still going strong. It's best to test any old tape before trusting it completely to the job.
7) The tape sticks very well to the PU surface of the marine ply in the trailer. It sticks too well to the standard panelling under the hatch, and it removed some of the thin surface veneer when I tried to reposition it. Not sure if the mahogany or the bamboo would hold up any better. Probably.

There's likely a few other tidbits I could come up with, but these should allow you to at least start on that addition or modification that was puzzling or stymieing you, if making holes and setting screws was bothering you.

 

You don't happen to have that primer # do you? I've got some body panels on my jeep (door trim) that I can't get to stick to paint --- they are very slippery. This might well be my solution....

 

Number must be printed very small. Couldn't find a US site but this is the product. Paints on clear and thin.

https://www.3mcanada.ca/3M/en_CA/p/d/b40062444/

Open can stays liquid well and doesn't gum up or turn solid. Mine is 4 years old.

 

I did a little looking for this through the normal body shop suppliers, and couldn't find it anywhere. If I find it, and it solve the problem I'll update...

 

You'd have to do a little digging to see if this comparable:3M Primer 94 Tape Adhesion Promoter DI-NOC Vinyl Wrap 1/2 Pint (8 fl oz, 236mL) | eBay

I somehow doubt it. But you're right... not a lot of U.S. sources; it seems to be all in Canada despite being made in the U.S.. Usually the supply chain thing is reversed and I'm the one scrambling to find a sway to get something into my hands, or heading over to Buffalo to pick it up at my mail box.

 

I'd NEVER do that! I 'm supposed to be in Missisigua in the next few months. Trying to put it off until spring. The weather is far too cold up there for this kid

 

Hi, new here. I have a Roadtoad Abode (made by Camp-Inn) that I've customized using a whole lot of VHB tape. I can add a few more hints:

• VHB tape doesn't stick well to unfinished wood, but if you coat the wood first with contact cement and let it thoroughly dry, the bond is incredible. I use the water-based stuff (3M Fastbond 30NF).
• 3M's 111 Adhesion Promoter makes a big difference when attaching things made of paint or metal. It's expensive, but goes a long way and for critical applications it's totally worth it.
• You have to press hard to get a good bond. I think Steve and Karen are right, the tape needs to ooze into the pores to solidify the bond, but you've got to assure really good contact to start that process.
• This guide from 3M is pretty daunting, but gives you some ideas if the application is critical.

 

I can say it doesn't stick to some plastics very well either --- I gave up on trying to use it --- instead, I've decided to embrace the 'character' imbued by the imperfection.

However the body panel adhesive...yikes! I suspect this stuff will stick to teflon

 

Thanks Tom. That fleshes things out nicely. With the Abode, you would have to get creative with how you flesh that one out as well. I also found that a polyurethane finish also provides a good substrate for the 3M tapes.

I use the 30NF for my drum kit re-wraps (a plastic wrap fixed to a plywood drum shell) and it is the "go-to" adhesive for that small segment of the music instrument fabrication-refurb industry. But the same principles apply anywhere else you're trying to fix something to wood without screws. The water-based cements (3M or otherwise) soak into the wood and provide a "deeper" connection than the solvent-based cements.

Having stripped a number of drum kits of their 60 year old contact cement and wraps, I can state (from some experience) that whatever you do with contact cement, it's always reversible. With some time and effort. And acetone.

 

The water-based adhesive soaking into the wood makes sense . . . thanks for the explanation.