Woody Update

No Dave, because it won't work on a mill finish that is stained well into the aluminum. A mill finish looks like this: VVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVV. To get a stain out you have to remove the stained metal at the sides and bottom of the v's. It isn't like a t-shirt with a stain where Shout or Tide will take it out Thus, you have to work the cleaner to death with a buffer to get it to remove metal in the valleys. The brass wool is useless as it only hits the peaks, but serious on smooth metal.

Most cleaning compounds will eat aluminum. Walbernize will do it, but the fine grit has a tough time removing metal from the valleys requiring an electric buffer. The Woody cleaner would be a fine grit like Walbernize meant to clean smooth aluminum/fiberglass without scratching. Both will get the job done if you invest enough time & work.

What folks like jsl aren't catching on to is that a few hours of prevention can save 100 hours of nasty work. I can only suggest that these folks search the site for Woody & Patina. Read the posts and one will find answers to questions like Dave's, + 150 more.

Hilditch

 

Uh yeah, H. We did pick up on your suggestion to treat the CI surface before we left the mother ship the first time you said it.

Warm and fuzzy again.

JSL

 

So...
If you get a new trailer, the thing to do after the film is peeled off is to apply the Woody Wax XXX first thing, right?

Seems like it should be done routinely if there is such a steep price to pay work-wise if you don't.

 

Hi Greg,

We went ahead and applied Woody Wax XXX right off the bat. Keep in mind that the film leaves some streaks behind and a lovely residue on your lights that you'll have to clean off as well. Be extra careful cutting the ropes, etc. so that you don't knick the siding. We just washed with Woody's Pine soap first, applied the wax, and that was it. The streaks that didn't come off with soap came off when Ivan applied the wax. First trip will be in January as soon as our tow vehicle is good to go. Until then, it's a great playhouse for our daughter (or mommy's refuge) in the garage. Figured it was better to do this than to put in the man hours on walbernizing down the road.

--Stelena

 

P.S. We were considering Sharkhide and even saw great pictures that Linda (LadyMC) sent us. But when Cary pointed out the possibility of pitting if the coating was chipped we opted for the Woody Wax. Hilditch and others had great results. Shipped quickly too.

 

Maybe not so much from the dark side. I've recently noticed after all the refinishing we did how much our tear resembles a 1963 Airstream Bambi down the road from us - which hasn't been polished in 9 years.

However, remember what Hilditch said a long time ago; "If you like the way it looks, put on Woodys to help keep that look."

Hilditch

 

As most of you following this thread have done I too read all the previous (some now semi-historic) entries on preserving our Raindrop. Having only picked it up from CI last September I had the luxury of doing whatever I wanted, or could afford, right from the beginning. Hilditch was a tremendous resource in helping me weigh the options with more than a few off-line email discussions and Cary was always there to provide his experience and knowledge. So saying, I had Cary hire a "detailer" in Necedah to wax our trailer just before we picked it up, right there in the shop. No way I was going to spend an extra day at Castle Rock waxing my new trailer with all of us yanking at our leashes to get going. That worked well enough but we spent three weeks in all kinds of weather, including many miles of dirt roads and a week practically in "the surf" coming slowly down the Oregon coast. A couple of self-serve car washes along the way helped keep the grit and salt at a minimum but when we got her home (north of San Diego) she no longer looked brand new despite a slow careful hand wash. We took off a week later for another week along the coast (Santa Barbara and Morro Bay) and I concluded she needed to be "preserved" properly. I "retired" in 2005 but get called back in every year for a few months as a Contractor and this year was no different. So, not having the time or energy to do it myself I hired another local "detailer" and he and a helper Walbernized our trailer followed by a coat of Woody XXX wax. I earn a lot more in an hour then the detailer charged and we are both doing what we know how to do well. "Nepenthe" is now sitting in our garage (calling to us everytime we walk by or around her) safe and shiny but I will wash her and apply another coat of wax before we take her out when I am done working again in March. It is my fervent hope that routine washing coupled with a good wax job a couple of times a year will be enough. As I mentioned, I used Woody's XXX wax, NOT the wax and sealer routine some others advocate. We shall see how it holds up.
Jim

 

Jim,
Would you say the initial woody wax detailing was worth it in Necedah?
Thanks

 

I don't really have a basis for comparison but subjectively I would say "Yes". In a laboratory environment, if clean, aluminum oxidizes (corrodes) uniformly and evenly leaving a protective film that inhibits further corrosion. This is called Passivation. In the real world anything that touches that aluminum, like the acid, salt and oils on your fingers from simply touching it, inhibits the formation of that protective film. it will still form but it will entrap your discolored fingerprint. This is particularly true of the brushed aluminum that Camp-Inn uses. Anyway, getting back to your original question, many people and machines "handled" that aluminum. They do thier best to keep it clean and to handle it properly but few manufacturing facilities match a laboratory. By laying down a film of wax, and two coats would have been better, I inhibited, to some degree, the much more harmful "crud" that is everywhere in our world while we were slowly bringing her home. Then, when ready and you have the time and energy, you have to clean it properly down to the base metal and coat (seal) it again. Now when it oxidizes, and it will do so more slowly, it will all be the same color. Theoretically!
Jim

 

Jim,
So are you suggesting walbernising first and then woody waxing when picking up from the factory or simply woody waxing twice when picking up?

 

Another option is to use the regular spray Woody's Wax when you pick up your trailer since it only takes about 30 minutes to apply and should do a good job protecting the finish for the trip home. Then when you get home use the XXX Woody's Wax for longer lasting protection.

This was my plan but didn't use anything before we left Necedah because we were running late. We were lucky and had good weather so when we got home our trailer only had some minor water stains. These cleaned up easily with the original Woody's Wax and then I applied the XXX Woody's Wax.

 

Jim,
Our plan in March, is to pick you the TD at Necedah. Have the factory wrap it for the 10 hr trip back to Ky. When we get home we would apply two treatments of Woody Wax XXX over several days.
Make sense?

 

There are many others here much more knowledgable than I, most certainly including Hilditch, but NO, your new trailer will not need to be Walbernized coming out of the shop. There will be a few "marks" here and there but they are careful and Cary constantly reminded us about keeping our hands off of the aluminum. If I had it to do over I would apply a second coat of wax. Had I done that I may not have had to Walbernize it so soon. As for wrapping it, we got to Necedah a little after 0900 and were not on the road until 1600. Cary, Craig and the rest of the crew take a lot of pride in these little "machines", and they are complex machines, and they will not be rushed in going over them piece by piece, step by step, to insure you are ready to take over caring for them. I presume you are staying in a motel that first night. Seems a shame, the cabin is cozy with a heater.
Jim

 

Jim,
Perfect. Thanks for the info. That really helps!
Can't wait to get our TD!
Ken in Louisville

 

What I have been told: Woody has recommended the Triple XXX Paste Wax for the Teardrop campers. The Paste Wax will give you longer lasting protection than the Woody Wax. You should follow the instructions carefully- apply in a circular motion, DO NOT ALLOW TO DRY. Remove with a soft cloth using vertical then horizontal motions. Temperature outside must be above 50 degrees. Work in small, workable sections. You can then apply the Woody Wax over it, and use the Woody Wax as an on-going maintenance product. The Woody Wax will block corrosion, as well as keep the Teardrop shining in between waxings. The Triple XXX Paste Wax should give you 6 months protection.

If you've already applied WoodyWax, you can simply apply the XXX right over it.

 

AlCat,
Perfect. Thanks for the info!
Ken in Louisville

 

Here's an email I received earlier today... sound familiar?

Hi AJ:

Congratulations on your new Teardrop ! You can apply Triple XXX Paste Wax for a long lasting 6 month protection, and then use the Woody Wax over it to prevent corrosion and spotting. The Woody Wax is great for bringing up the Shine on the raw aluminum. Woody's Ultra Pine Wash will work great on your Teardrop. The soap also has corrosion blockers and the nice thing about the soap is that it will not strip any wax you have already applied. For the Triple XXX Paste Wax, the temperature needs to be above 50 degrees. You can apply with a soft cloth, and then either buff by hand or machine. Also, with the Triple XXX Paste Wax, it is important not TO LET IT DRY. You should work in small areas and remove before the product dries.

If you decide to wait to apply the Paste Wax when the weather is warmer, Woody Wax will give you protection and shine until it gets warm enough to use the Paste Wax.

Let me know if you have any other questions or if you would like for me to send you some samples !

Sue
Susan Hughes
WOODY WAX

 

AJ,

Whoa! I would correct Susan from Woody's on one point there. If you apply the spray on Woody's over the XXX paste wax it will take it right off. It works like a great product stripper. She is right though, it does bring up a nice shine on the bare aluminum. It is a good idea to use it before applying the paste wax as a final cleaner.

Susan's application tips are all spot on. Keep in mind, the XXX is a very snotty wax compared to automotive waxes. This is not something that will be done by hand. Need a buffer.

Cary

 

Definitely need a buffer!

 

Also, it doesn't need to be an expensive buffer, I used a $50 buffer from Sears and Cary had also recommended something similar.