Replacement battery - where to buy?

I need to replace the battery in my C-I. Any suggestions for where to buy one? I was thinking of going to Costco. But if someone has another suggestion I'm open to it. Thanks.

 

I think we determined in another thread that the maximum physical size battery you can use depends on the size of your trailer's battery enclosure, which in turn depends on which of the two battery options your trailer has.

And as for Costco, their unlimited time any reason no questions asked return policy for almost everything (except electronics) makes them my choice for everything every time. Took my truck battery back after 18 months for a full refund late last year and bought an identical new one there at the same time. Turned out it wasn't their battery but my starter (had to have it replaced a few weeks later), and I felt bad about that, but nothing could be done about it.

 

This is from Craig:

 

What ever size battery that you end up getting, it's worth finding a deep cycle marine battery to replace the one you have. It will hold a charge longer than a regular car battery.

 

Thanks everyone for the info. I am total girlie wuss when it comes to mechanical maintenance stuff. Wish me luck in my shopping adventure

 

Had the same question back in 09 and Cary added this...

Cary wrote:
"... If you end up replacing it I would go to a actual battery store like Batteries Plus or something. It isn't a marine battery but one used in electronic equipment. I call it a UPS battery since that is the equipment I am familiar with using these. Most battery stores refer to them as wheelchair batteries. Just take it in to them and they can get the info they need right off the old one.

Cary "
Seems to be some stores near-by..
Battery Plus Store in Seattle/Tacoma area
http://www.batteriesplus.com/

 

Hey Everyone,

Don't know for sure on the size,... However the below Batteries seem to meet the criteria ..

UPS Type Battery
80 Ah;
http://www.batteriesplus.com/produ...igh-Rate-Battery-12V-80Ah-WKHR12--80C_FR.aspx

100 Ah;
http://www.batteriesplus.com/produ...100AH-Werker-AGM-Battery-WKHR12--100C_FR.aspx

125 Ah:
http://www.batteriesplus.com/produ...ate-125AH-Werker-Battery-WKHR12--125C_FR.aspx

I would opt for the " largest " ( I have a 72 Ah ) of the three, that would fit !

" Fpoole " , Thanks for the info & link !

L.M.

 

Hey all,

I just couldn't figure out what made a " UPS " Battery different ... ?

http://www.americanbatterycompany.com/battery-glossary.php
UPS (Uninterruptible Power supply): An electrical device providing an interface between the main power supply and sensitive loads (computer systems, instrumentation, etc.). The UPS supplies sinusoidal AC power free of disturbances and within strict amplitude and frequency tolerances. It is generally made up of a rectifier/charger and an inverter together with a battery for backup power in the event of a mains failure.

A UPS made up of several parallel-connected UPS units with equal output ratings (P) and each equipped with its battery. If one unit fails, one or several of the others pick up the resulting excess load. If a UPS has a rated output n x P and is made up of n + k units, k is the level of redundancy for the entire set of n + k units.

UPS (parallel without redundancy): A UPS made up of several (n) parallel-connected UPS units with equal output ratings (P) and each equipped with its battery, for large loads. The total output is equal to the number of units multiplied by their individual output (n x P). In this configuration, no UPS unit is redundant.

UPS (single): A UPS made up of one single UPS unit (rectifier/charger, inverter and bypass) and a battery

 

Marth told me she has the small battery.

 

Aw, that's an easy one...just ask Craig or Cary...before they started Camp-Inn they worked in the engineering department of a company that made UPS' in Necedah. We used lots of the smaller batteries for the kids' Power Wheels jeeps (Craig got them for $5 each from work).

 

Who would of thought a replacement battery would have so many options??? Deep cycle, gell cell, UPS??? Thanks LM for clarifying what UPS stood for. Even I, in my girly wussiness, knew it couldn't be United Parcel Service Thanks Frank for the Batteries Plus store link. I'll check them out.

 

Martha,

The biggest determining factor is physical size. The battery compartment will only work with a battery of the proper physical size. If it is too large, it won't fit. If it is too small it will bounce around possibly damaging itself or the trailer.

There are many different battery technologies that will work. Actually, all of them will work, but some better than others.

Here are the criteria to consider when choosing a battery for your Teardrop. I have put them in order of importance (in my opinion):

1. Physical size: see above.
2. Deep cycle: allows you to take more power out of the battery without damaging the battery.
3. Cost: I put this here because everything after this point will affect the cost significantly.
4. Amp Hours (AH): this is the useable power or run time. Your original battery had about 32 Amp hours. Use that as a point of reference.
5. Life: how many years can you expect before having to replace.
6. Technology: I put this last, but technology is actually what ultimately determines Cost, Amp Hours, and Life.

Each type has it's pro's and con's.
Standard Lead/acid:
Pro: Inexpensive, readily available.
Con: Lower AH for size, shorter Life, fewer recharge cycles, liquid acid.

Gell Cell or AGM (also UPS batteries)
Pro: Higher AH, Longer life, more recharge cycles, no "free" acid.
Con: More expensive, find at battery stores only.

Note: the "Liquid acid" is only an issue when you are handling the battery. If you tip it over, or drop it, the liquid may spill. Gell cells, and AGMs have acid, but it is trapped in the "Gell" or "Absorbed Glass Mat" so it can't spill.

One of the largest factors in getting longer life out of any technology battery, is how you store it when you aren't using it. You should recharge the battery fully as soon as possible after discharging it. One or two days isn't so bad, but if you store it for a month without fully charging it, you will take a year or more off it's life.

So, always charge your battery as soon as you get home from a trip. During winter months when your trailer is not being used, you should plug in the charger for 48 hours at least once a month.

Hope this helps make your decision easier...

Craig (hijacking Betsey's account)

 

Thanks Craig for your very informative overview. Now I won't feel like a complete know-nothing dork when I walk into the battery store. :grin:

 

I put a trickle charger on the motorcycle battery when it's stored for the winter. No need to unplug it while the unit is in storage. This keeps the battery in top condition. Just hookup the trickle charger, plug it in and let it do it's thing. Trickle chargers can be found in auto and motorcycle shops. Mine is made by Harley Davidson and has a harness attachment that, once connected to the battery terminals, I don't need to remove. Makes the trickle charger hookup a plug and play operation. You should be able to do the same with the TD battery.

Tim

 

Just plug the trailer in with an extension cord. The trailer is smart and will keep the battery in top shape all winter.

 

The trailer has a built in tender "trickle charger as Tim calls it". No need to add an extra charger for winter storage. Simply plug in the camper's shore power connection.

Cary

 

Very cool. Didn't know that. :grin:

Tim

 

Ok, our MiniMc is in a storage unit in a campground - no electricity available to plug it up. What to do?

 

Put your solar panel on the roof of the storage unit, and run the cord back to your 550?