Third Brake Light Install- Complete

My second post, but it thought it worthwhile to share. Included are my apologies if all the post components don't end up where they should be, or its a little wordy. I believe that this is an entirely new post topic.

When we picked up the trailer last month, I asked Cary about a third higher center-mounted brake light. I don't recall his specific response (which included the words either 'can't' 'shouldn't' 'won't' 'doesn't work' 'not required by law', or any or all of the above) or his specific reasoning for CI not making it a part of their regular build or an option, but I didn't let it deter me. I had some concerns about the OEM brake lights sitting so low, and doing triple duty as a tail light and turn signal. A third dedicated brake light that was mounted closer to eye level was important to me for additional safety. Particularly if the tow vehicle's brake lights are not visible to anyone following. And they aren't.

A perusal of the many Q&A's at etrailer.com yielded one answer that seemed to make sense. Because our LED tail lights on the 560 draw so little power (compared to incandescent) not all brake controllers/converters can handle the differing (or lower) voltages and can't actuate properly when required. This is what etrailer recommended: Curt Vehicle to Vehicle Tail Light Converter Item # C56196, which I got. They cautioned against using the #118158 converter, mentioned in most of their Q&As because of the LEDs.

The other component was a single function 2-wire LED brake light, as I didn't want any tail light or turn signal capability, or multiple wires to foul up the operation. There are many third brake lights which are designed for a flush vertical mount, but few that are designed for a flat roof-top mount with LEDs that point backward. Spoilerlights.com 16" x 2.06" Roof Mount Third Brake Light seemed to fit the bill. It was chrome with red LEDs and a clear lens, as opposed to white LEDs with a red lens, which was more aesthetically pleasing for the 560's overall appearance. However, it wasn't the cheapest light out there.

I followed instructions (diagram included, but different converter # used... same wiring) and it worked. I don't want to tell you the tail light wire colours I tied into just in case yours are different. Suffice to say you must dig around to locate and differentiate the brake-turn wire at each tail light, as opposed to the tail light wire. The third wire is a ground, which you don't touch. Use a clamp connection; there isn't sufficient slack in the wires to allow cutting and splicing. Removal of the wooden panels that conceal the battery and the water pump are necessary to reveal the tail-light wires. (I originally tried to remove the pop-out LED tail lights with the rubber grommets, from the outside, so I could access the wires, but I was afraid I would break them, so I accessed the wires from inside the galley bins.) The now-connected brake wires run to the input side of the converter which I mounted between the battery charge unit and the rim of the right galley bin. You only use the red output wire of the converter for the brake light; the other two outputs (tail and turn) are capped. However, the converter must be grounded (white wire). I grounded it along with the third brake light at the 110V cabin outlet, as it was in the vicinity of my cable run, and a pretty good bet that the ground connection would be solid. When the TV brake was depressed, I was getting 11+ volts on my voltmeter, using the red wire from the converter and a ground, and zero voltage any other time. I figured I was good to go.

Wire routing took some head-scratching, but this was the cleanest route: It runs behind the battery and into the footwell of the cabin, then up into galley cabinets/shelf. The pictures are better than words. I used Wiremold C10 Low Voltage conduit to conceal and organize the wires; it also has a self-adhesive mounting. (No word yet on how permanent). The wire pairs with the present galley/ hatch wiring at the hinge, and then runs behind the wood support, second from the hinge.

The brake light wire required a single hole completely through the hatch aluminum and panelling. The two mounting screws for the light are 1 1/4" long and go through the aluminum into the wood support. The mounting screw holes and the wire outlet on this particular light are off-set just enough to allow this clean mount. The light is also adhesive backed for waterproofness. I siliconed all my perforations in the hatch aluminum.

The LEDs are directional, meaning that looking at them head on, they're the brightest. The angle of the hatch means that they pointing slightly downward. However you get some reflection off the aluminum to make up for the diminished brightness. Mounting the light on a flatter surface for a brighter light (i.e the cabin roof) was a non-starter, for obvious reasons.

I hope I haven't confused anyone. A word of caution if you're unsure about tackling this surgery in your CI work of art: work incrementally and test each component before mounting or drilling holes. The third brake light should only come on with the brake light, and not the tail lights or turn signals. A plethora of alligator clips is useful. As is a length of pipe held in place by the driver's seat to depress the brake pedal, if you're working alone. And... LEDs are directional, meaning that if they're not lighting up for you, reverse the wire polarity.

 

Really nice job! Thanks for sharing, some winter when I have some time on my hands.....

 

Looks great

 

Now that would be a great option for CampInn to offer!

 

I forgot to add that I was in to about $90 USD for the project with a whopping $65 being the light itself. Someone else might be able to find a similar rear-facing light with white LEDs and a red lens for much less than that; the red LEDs and clear lens command a premium. The converter was only $15.

I saw nothing in my process which would be prohibitive for an inexpensive CI standard build or option, and it would do away with the slightly disconcerting surface wiring (which I considered in this case to be a small price to pay for the increased safety factor). In fact, CI already runs wire to the galley light, which is very close to where I installed the brake light, so I can't imagine it would add much to the cost of the build. Anything to reduce the chances of someone running into of you can't be money wasted. I'm not an electrician or electrical engineer. However, to my mind, electrical stuff tends to be either 'all or nothing': If it works, it works, and does not tend to fail over time. So I can't believe that I ventured into forbidden territory with this project.

 

Looks clean and professional. Nicely done!

 

I wish my Raindrop has 5 front clearance lights on top/front.

 

Looks great. Wondering if the install would be easier via a trailer with an air conditioner. Lamp would be just a little.higher??? Thanks for sharing..R

 

Ron and Missy: Higher and more level is always better for the brightness and visibility. I don't have the A/C so I can't comment on the standard wiring route. However, having seen build photos I suspect that any of the cabin ceiling wiring for the fan/ AC (if your hope is to parallel it) is computer-cut, buried into the insulation, under the aluminum skin and completely inaccessible once the unit is built. The hatch skin where I went through for the wire is comprised of only the aluminum sheet and the wood-grain finish paper: 1/4" (if that) and easily sealable with silicone after the fact. The horizontal wooden hatch brace is also a no-brainer mounting point.

You could probably and safely duplicate my install with a roof-mount. But the exposed wiring or conduit running throughout the cabin would be a horrible eye-sore (I swallowed that pill on the small amount of conduit in the corner at the foot of the mattress), you'd be guessing at the locations of any frame structure mounting points, and you run an unreasonable risk of water penetration that could spread in any direction through the cabin area ceiling and walls. Any roof-top brake light mount and wiring could only be attempted with the input of CI, which they would most likely advise against.

Good luck.

Steve

 

Q: I can see the TV-to trailer wire harness dumping into my 550 battery box/electrical center....why not just tap directly into the "12v brake" wire? Why is the Curt Vehicle to Vehicle Tail Light Converter Item # C56196 needed?
I'm sure there is a good reason....thanks for setting me straight!
Jeff

 

Jeff: Initially I thought the same thing. But because the single LED light is used for 3 purposes, you need the device to isolate the brake signal, and prevent a "backflow" of power. You could try a simple splice into the wire and see if it works. But everything I've come across indicates that strange things will happen when the turn signals are activated, or even with just the tail lights on. Or a combination of the above. I don't recall attempting this experiment myself; I believe I just trusted the literature and the existence of these devices as proof of their necessity.

Refreshing my memory just now, and looking back at the wiring diagram I initially posted above, it would suggest that there really is no dedicated "brake wire" in these types of trailer light systems. The two "brake" lights are activated in concert with each other when the TV brake lights are activated because of the actions and calculations of the converter that you already have installed in your TV for the trailer wiring.

However I can verify that my setup works. If you find that you need a converter, (I'm pretty sure you will) just make sure you get the one I quoted if you have LEDs on the CampInn. And install an LED third. There are other manufacturers of converters out there, for which I cannot vouch. Nor can I for the ones by Curt that are calibrated for incandescents; these apparently won't function properly with LEDs, or play well with a combination different types of lights.

Good luck.

Steve

 

The finished product looks great and would be a nice factory option.

 

Totally love this. This is one point I think CI has missed. Make it flash 3 to 5 time when the brake is initially pressed and you’ve got a winner!!!

 

Nice workmanship. Thanks for sharing.