Cast Iron seasoning question

Discussion in 'Camp Cooking & Dutch Ovens' started by Ken & Peggy, Apr 7, 2010.

  1. Ken & Peggy

    Ken & Peggy Moderator Staff Member Donating Member

    We're thinking about getting a DO for camping and have been reading about how to season them,etc. We have on old Wagner frying pan that I seasoned today, but the result is a kind of 'mottled' looking finish - some glossy spots, some dull spots.
    My prep was to scour the pan with an SOS pad, as it had some rust and was in pretty bad shape. Then rinsed with hot water really well. Dried, put in the oven at about 350-400 for 15-20 minutes. Taken out, coated with canola oil inside and out, wiped with a paper towel, and then put in the oven upside down at 400 for almost 2 hours.
    After I took it out of the oven and saw the mottled look, I re-oiled it and put it back in the oven for about an hour, with no change.
    Did I do something wrong? Or do I just need to figure that it will look better with more use?

    Here's a picture:
    [​IMG]
    Ken
     
  2. Oysterpot

    Oysterpot Moderator Staff Member

    Hey Ken George here. My first guess from the photo, is that the oil was a little heavy and thus the rans. My question is,
    are any of the shiney spots "sticky"? If so you can do 2 things well actually 3 things, but the easiest ones are;
    1. Use the pan as it is, with foods such as bacon or fried potatoes being the foods prepared for the 1st couple of uses. Blotching should slowly disappear. The other thing would be to reheat the pan in oven to 475 to 500 for another hour or so, and let it cool in the oven. The 3rd thing is start over.
    Final answer just use the pan.
    My seasoning material of choice is beeswax,verses veg. oil. but no matter what you use it needs to be a very and I do mean very thin coat, almost to the point of not any wet look at all.
    If you have any questions don't hesitate, I will help you if I can.
     
  3. Ken & Peggy

    Ken & Peggy Moderator Staff Member Donating Member

    George, I was hoping you'd respond. I will probably start over and see if I can get a better result. I think I left too much oil on the pan - I will put a shot of the new try here later today.
    Thanks,
    Ken
     
  4. Hi Ken, you might just be able to add more oil and go from there. Looks like a serious case of abrasion that happened because of the SOS pad. Here is a link to help:

    http://www.chow.com/stories/10413

    Be sure to look under the "How to Clean" section of the article. When my iron ware gets extra dirty it likes to be cleaned is some hot water and a sea salt scrub. Again, I think you can keep cooking on it and just clean it "easy" in the future. Beautiful seasoning really happens from cooking. Hope the article is helpful!
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jun 6, 2016
  5. Ken & Peggy

    Ken & Peggy Moderator Staff Member Donating Member

    MarknCyn,
    I've seen that article and it's a good one. But that is for cast iron that's already seasoned well. My old pan had rust and a bunch of other stuff going on. I had read on a couple of sites that the way to approach that is to scour it like I did, and then season. I re-did the seasoning today, and ended up with the same mottled look, so I will just begin using it to cook with and see if it improves with continued use, as you suggest.
    Thanks,
    Ken
     
  6. Oysterpot

    Oysterpot Moderator Staff Member

    Ken,
    With the streaking, does it appear that all of the iron has at least some coating on it? Until you are comfortable that you have a full coverge with the season, cook the greasy stuff. If you are comfortable with what you have cook away.
     
  7. Ken & Peggy

    Ken & Peggy Moderator Staff Member Donating Member

    George, I'd say there's some coating all over the pan, so I'll probably just mess up my cholesterol a bit and cook a bunch of bacon this weekend and see if that helps.
    Ken
     
  8. Bobdaye

    Bobdaye Newbie

    I use Crisco shortening to season all of our cast iron. After each use, we use a little bit of water a kosher salt to scour the pan with a paper towel, rinse with water and then heat it up just enough so that the water evaporates and you can lightly coat it with shortening for the next use. We try to use very little detergent - only when really needed. Most times bringing water to a low boil is enough to loosen stubborn food before scouring with kosher salt.

    Coat your skillet with Crisco, flip it upside down on a cookie sheet and repeat the seasoning process. Lodge.com is a great resource for seasoning directions.

    Found this article online. This article refers to restoring cast iron cookware that has seen better days:

    Cleaning & Seasoning Cast Iron Cookware

    CAUTION: Wear rubber gloves and eye protection while doing this!!

    Begin by spraying the pan with oven cleaner and putting it in a plastic bag for a couple of days. The bag keeps the oven cleaner from drying out so it will continue to work. After a couple of days, remove it from the bag and scrub it in a solution of dish soap/water. I use a brass brush purchased at a super market, or my favorite, a brass brush I purchased at Rite Aid Pharmacy in their automotive counter. This brush is marketed for cleaning white wall tires. It is just the right size for doing pans. If all the burned on grease doesn't come off, repeat the process, concentrating the cleaner to the areas not cleaned.

    For bulk cleaning, you can prepare a soak of one and a half gallons of water to one 18 ounce can of lye in a plastic container. Lye like oven cleaner is very caustic and will burn you. Always wear rubber gloves. Mix enough in the plastic container to cover the items to be cleaned. Leave the pieces in the soak for about five days. Then scrub the piece. You can use the lye mixture several times. Do not use oven cleaner or lye on aluminum! It will eat the aluminum! Lye and oven cleaner will also eat the finish off wood handles and japanned pieces, and will dull porcelain finishes.

    To remove rust, buff the pan with a fine wire wheel in an electric drill. Crusted rust can be dissolved by soaking the piece in a 50% solution of white vinegar and water for a few hours. Don't leave it more than overnight without checking it. This solution will eventually eat the iron! It is now important to neutralize and stop the action of the vinegar. To neutralize the acid actions of the vinegar again apply the oven cleaner and let the piece soak over night. You can also soak the piece over night in an alkaline solution such as washing soda which is available in the cleaning dept of most supermarkets and also some hardware stores. The washing soda neutralizes the vinegar so it will not continue to attack the iron. Then scrub the piece in dish detergent and hot water before seasoning.

    After removing the burned on grease you are ready to season the piece. Preheat the oven to 125 degrees. This removes any moisture in the oven which could condense on the cold skillet leaving a very fine gold or rust color. Then preheat the pieces in the 125 degree oven for about 15 minutes or until they are hot. After the piece is heated remove it and apply shortening. I prefer solid Crisco. Some prefer lard or bacon grease. Oil does not work as well as these three. Apply solid Crisco; it flows right on. Of course you have to use a hot pad or rag to hold them. Return them to the oven right side up and raise the temperature to 225 degrees. Leave them for 1/2 hour then remove them and wipe any pooling of the shortening, leaving the piece still shining wet. The timing is important here because if you leave them in the oven to long the shortening begins to thicken. Put them back in the oven for another half hour. When you remove them this time let them cool down a bit, but are still hot, then wipe them to a dull shine. The initial seasoning should be accomplished at the point, However, typical of cast iron cookware, the more you use it (and don’t abuse it) the better it will be. It is generally recommended that you cook fatty foods in the pan as this adds to the seasoning process.

    I DO NOT recommend the following methods of cleaning:

    Throw it in a fire - The intense heat of a fire can severely warp or even crack the piece.

    Self Cleaning Oven - Although not as great a risk as throwing it in a fire, the intense heat of a self cleaning can warp a skillet. There is also a risk of warping the piece.

    Sandblasting - This is the cardinal sin for collectors. Sand blasting destroys the patina making the piece a dull gray color. Most collectors will not buy a piece that has been sand blasted.
    After cooking in the pan, DO NOT use a detergent to clean it. That will destroy the seasoning. Put hot water in the pan and bring it to a boil. CAUTION: Do not put cold water in a hot pan! Let the pan soak for several minutes, then wipe it out with a paper towel. If something sticks, scrape it with a spoon to dislodge it. Do not use a brillo pad to scour it! An abrasive pad cuts into the seasoned surface. Then, reheat the pan and apply a fine coating of shorting, oil, or Pam. Do not apply enough to run. Just enough to wet the surface with a fine layer. The panman.com
     
  9. Ken & Peggy

    Ken & Peggy Moderator Staff Member Donating Member

    Thanks Bob & Risa,
    That's a very complete & detailed description. I may re-do the pan, using Crisco and the times listed in your article, to see if that does the trick. Or, since my dear wife may leave me if I smell up the house again, I may just use the pan the way it is. I could try using the gas grill outside, though, too. Thanks again.
    Ken & Peggy
     
  10. Betsey

    Betsey Camp-Inn Staff

    This is my personal opinion, but I wouldn't be comfortable using oven cleaner on CI cookware (or any cookware). To be honest, I have never seen this method promoted on any of the major DO cooking sites. Using hot water & plastic pan scraper or salt have worked well. Vinegar or coke, also. I'll admit to even using crumpled foil, on occasion, to help "scour a pan."

    :cool:
     
  11. Oysterpot

    Oysterpot Moderator Staff Member

    I have never had the need to use harsh abrasive in cleaning my CI. I have had charcoals spots (some very well done food) that did not require harsh abrasive. My description and examples of harsh is anything that can scratch the metal and leave a mark in the metal. My harshest abrasives are the nylon or plastic scraper, plastic turner (spatula), and my favorite is the plastic "scrubbie" scouring pad. None of these will abrade the metal.
    Now if you have a really cripy critter in the pan or on the cooking surface of your CI, if you can put some plain water in the pan and bring it to a rolling boil. bring heat down to a simmer, and let pan simmer for about 5 - 10 minutes. Remove from heat and let liquid cool till you can stick your fingers in it. Take the scrubbie or plastic scraper and remove your crispy critter. When done rewarm your iron to remove any moisture. If you have used beewax for seasoning, don't worry about reoiling pan. You didn't loose any seasoning!
    Just make sure it is dry.
     
  12. Bobdaye

    Bobdaye Newbie

    I need to clarify. The cleaning/seasoning process that I posted is for cast iron that is heavily rusted (something you might find at a yard sale).
     
  13. Ken & Peggy

    Ken & Peggy Moderator Staff Member Donating Member

    Update: Re-cleaned and seasoned

    I wound up using a Scotch Brite pad drill attachment and removed the rust and most of the rough-surfaced accumulation of crud. Then heated, Crisco'd and baked upside down and it is looking much better. I actually gave it about 3 coats of Crisco in an afternoon, letting it cool to room temperature between each 'coat'. It's already getting a nice dark patina to it. Peggy used it for bacon last weekend, too. I'll post some new shots when I can to show the improvements.
    Thanks to everybody for your help. BTW, just ordered our 1st DO - a 10" Lodge from REI. $43 including tax, not bad. We'll get a chance to use some of those recipe's soon, George.

    Ken & Peggy
     
  14. Oysterpot

    Oysterpot Moderator Staff Member

    Re: Update: Re-cleaned and seasoned

     
  15. Oysterpot

    Oysterpot Moderator Staff Member

    Ken, unless I missed it, how about a report on your "mottling" issue? Did it go away with use?

    g.


    PS, I just put my 1st coatong on a 16" lid, after giving it a vinegar bath. I had a light rust surface because I didn't season it relied on factory seasoning. Well it mottled, went ahead and wiped it again while very hot and put it back in oven.
    result was still mottled, but not as bad. I think when I use it now the patina will even out. Let me know whats happening with your pan.
     
  16. Ken & Peggy

    Ken & Peggy Moderator Staff Member Donating Member

    George,
    We've only used that pan a few times since then - but it is improving. It's still mottled, but less obvious.
    I've used the DO the most, and may re-season using beeswax like you suggest since we don't use it all that frequently and I'd like to keep it from getting rancid. Thanks.
     
  17. George, was looking for the post on re-seasoning the dutch ovens with Beewaxs. Wasn't that on here somewhere once or was it one of the other forums. I've got my beeswax and am ready to seanon for the year now that we can open windows inbetween the rain storms.

    thanks, tina
     
  18. Betsey

    Betsey Camp-Inn Staff

  19. thanks Betsey...knew it was in here somewhere...next project to getting the teardrop ready. Looks like we won't get out before Randy's, so maybe it will be warmer by then :).

    tina
     
  20. Betsey

    Betsey Camp-Inn Staff

    Randy's will be our first trip, too. Thinking of stopping by Eau Galle this weekend to visit with the troops but we won't be camping. Getting ready for NM next week. :cool:

    :cool:
     
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