New exterior cleaning & polishing advice from Craig and Cary

We were planning to have a professional detail the exterior of our teardrop to remove some streaking and weathering and asked Cary about the appropriate cleaning product. Thought we'd pass on the results of his discussion with Craig about the best product to use.

Here's the response. " I would stay away from most aluminum or chrome polishes because they will be too aggressive. We found that for restoring a badly tarnished trailer without making too mirror like we like a product called Wizards."

"There are two products we would use. One is Wizards Turbo cut polish and the other is Wizards metal polish. The turbo cut is a liquid and you use it with a buffer. This you would only use if the trailer is very tarnished and you really have to remove a very heavy level of oxidation. This will need cleaning with mineral spirits as you work to get all the black mess off. Messy job."

"The metal polish is really interesting though. Comes in a small metal can and in the can is a material that resembles pink cotton candy. You can do this by hand or spread it out thin over the head of a buffer. If the trailer is lightly tarnished this works amazing. If it is heavily tarnished and needs the Turbo cut you would want to go over it with the cotton candy after doing the Turbo cut. If it is not bad at all you can use the cotton candy stuff by hand and do the whole trailer but it is a lot of work."

We ended up selling the trailer before getting to do the cleaning, so we can't give any feedback on how it turned out, but thought this info would be useful to others on the forum.

 

Keep in mind all that is for when the trailer needs more aggressive restorative cleaning beyond the fairly mild Walbernize cleaner.

Cary

 

Re: white pitting on camper

We are new to campin and we took our first voyage in our Raindrop 560 just after Christmas, arriving back in Chicago mid-January with freezing weather. This made it very difficult to get the outside of the camper really clean. It was fully out of the weather in the garage all winter.

Now we have small white spots all over the body of the camper (not the fenders) . I'd guess this is oxidization or some sort of pitting? The Wabernize does not remove the spots. Should we try Bon Ami? Any other suggestions?

Thank you

 

Re: white pitting on camper

Linda and Dave,

That is indeed corrosion pitting. Most likely from road salt spray. The Walbernize is a very mild polishing cleaner. It is not aggressive enough to take those pits out. To fully remove them you would have to follow the suggestions outlined in this thread. I would recommend the Wizards products listed for this job. I have seen some pretty rough looking trailers end up like new afterwards. Keep in mind it will be a bit shinier afterwards.

Cary

 

Re: white pitting on camper

I have used the cotton candy stuff on a few areas on the back of my TD. It works quite well - is quite messy to work with - I found that once you are done rubbing the wizard in an area, you have quite a black mess. A light dusting of flour over that area really was an aide to cleaning that off. I picked that tip up from a shop that restores air streams.

Bob

 

My trailer is parked outside throughout the year. Six years later, the trailer has quite a bit of watermarking and oxidization - especially on the galley/roof. Walbernizer wasn't making much of a difference. So, I decided to give Wizards Turbo Cut a try. As I can only work on the trailer on days that are cloudy/cool, the project isn't finished. I'm happy with the results I'm getting, so far! It takes work - definitely not a quick fix. However, it does get rid of the watermarking and oxidation without looking excessively shiny/polished - blending nicely with the rest of the trailer.

I find Turbo Cut is easier to work with than Walbernizer (minimal, if any, splatter and super easy clean up - just wipe that excess black stuff off with a wet paper towel and it is gone in no time). The Turbo Cut is on the pricey side, but it nice to be able to do something about unsightly oxidation and watermarking.

I do need to find a small circumference buffer that will work well on those small areas, seam lines and corners. My buffer is about 8" and doesn't do very well in those areas. If anyone has a favorite that works well for that, I'd appreciate comments about the make/brand that works well for you.

 

I urge caution in polishing whatever you use, it can be a real rabbit hole that can be tough to climb out of, I've been down there. I've decided to embrace the patina!

Randy

 

These photos might help give you an idea as to what to expect from the Wizards Turbo Cut. I started with the galley and have worked my way up to the fantastic fan area so far (as shown in the 1st panoramic phot0). The second galley shot is after using the Wizards Turbo Cut. I need to go back and work on the galley some more - I wasn't sure if I'd run out of the Turbo Cut so I didn't dwell on spots that aren't perfectly clean yet and I also need to get a smaller buffer for some areas. I'd say I've probably put in maybe 10 to 15 hours of buffing so far.

 

I tried to not worry about it either Randy, but my trailer is parked outside through Canadian winters.

 

I can see the need Kelly! Lots of work, best of luck. Do you have a cover for it?

Randy

 

I used to regularly put a Raindrop cover on the trailer, but I no longer cover the trailer during the summer months. I have since recycled the 1st cover I bought with the trailer as the material was deteriorating. In hindsight, I should have parted with it sooner. I do have another Raindrop cover that I haven't put to use yet. I'm contemplating storing the trailer elsewhere this winter though and may not need the cover - I may be very motivated to do that after I get the trailer cleaned up!

 

I looked further into the warnings and safety use instructions on the wizards turbo cut packaging after noticing throat/chest irritation several hours after using it. Ordinary face masks are not adequate to protect you from the vapours - which smell deceivingly pleasant. Ordinary rubber gloves aren't enough either. This is a product that should be reserved for those with respirator type protection - not something for the average joe. The warning product label is inadequate. Luckily for me I was working with it outside. I won't be using this product anymore

 

I'm actually relieved that you had trouble finding it in store as it was you I was thinking of when I posted my recent concerns with using this product - especially indoors or poorly ventilated areas.

 

Here is the link safety data sheet that I found for Wizards Turbo Cut. It took quite a bit of searching. But, here it is:
http://s7d9.scene7.com/is/content/GenuinePartsCompany/3049378pdf?$PDF$

In case there is an issue with the link, I have also copied the following recommendations for exposure controls

Appropriate engineering controls : Provide adequate general and local exhaust ventilation. Use process enclosures, local exhaust ventilation, or other engineering controls to control airborne levels below recommended exposure limits. Use explosion-proof equipment with flammable materials. Ensure adequate ventilation, especially in confined areas.

Personal protective equipment : Gloves. Protective goggles. Insufficient ventilation: wear respiratory protection.

Hand protection : Use gloves chemically resistant to this material when prolonged or repeated contact could occur.

Gloves should be classified under Standard EN 374 or ASTM F1296. Suggested glove materials are: Neoprene, Nitrile/butadiene rubber, Polyethylene, Ethyl vinyl alcohol laminate, PVC or vinyl. Suitable gloves for this specific application can be recommended by the glove supplier.

Eye protection : Wear eye protection, including chemical splash goggles and a face shield when possibility exists for eye contact due to spraying liquid or airborne particles.

Skin and body protection : Wear long sleeves

Respiratory protection : Wear a NIOSH-approved (or equivalent) full-facepiece airline respirator in the positive pressure mode with emergency escape provisions. In case of inadequate ventilation or risk of inhalation of vapors, use suitable respiratory equipment with gas filter (type A2). Use a positive-pressure air-supplied respirator if there is any potential for an uncontrolled release, exposure levels are not known, or any other circumstances where air-purifying respirators may not provide adequate protection

 

After dragging the trailer over 2,000 miles of snow, sand, salt and rain 'old 931' wasn't looking very happy. I like a nice patina but leaving it encrusted in salt and sand just didn't seem like a good idea. I don't want to go down the polishing trail but did get the bucket, sponge and buffer out.

A teaspoon of Walbernize and a tablespoon of a ph7 soap into two gallon of water and I'm in the garage cleaning it up.
This is what I faced.





I'm wiping it down with a damp sponge. In dirtier places I'm dipping deeper into the bucket to pick up more Wlbernize as it settles fast.

....to be continued.....

 

Use great care, polishing is a rabbit hole........

 

Now you tell me. I would have preferred to do nothing but I needed to remove the salt and chemicals. Now that it is clean I will let it get a natural patina.

 

I love the looks of the baby moons but wanted a lighter rim.

 

Bumping, for an update if any on newer products than Wizard, mentioned here.

 

Thanks Bear - I too have the spots (from a previous owner’s travels). Been thinking about polishing… but now perhaps to start with White Diamond.

Welcome back